Viterbo

I mentioned tuning valve gaps to refer to the process. Cross valves in cylinder 1 to tune cylinder 4. But instead of tuning the gap, I tried to find a pushrod working differently from others. I'm using standard hydraulic lifters.

Banjo the stethoscope test pointed to the rear of the engine around the piston area. I was told to make the following test: Do the process of tunning valve gaps and check for gap on the pushrods by moving them up and down by hand and found this: all pushrods are rock solid (no movement) except 2. From front to back, pushrods 4 and 6 (cylinder 2 and 3) have a gap of 1mm or so and we can hear a "tac tac". Does this mean anything?

Crank and bearings are perfect, nothing spun, no marks... Piston pins apparently have no gap... Haven't checked side gap on the piston heads yet. Chain doesn't seem to have much gap to cause a knock like this. No marks on the timing cover of the chain hitting it. I'm running out of options for the problem...

A friend that works at a Bosch Car Service shop (jokes apart hehe) came by and he thinks it's a piston knock, either by gap in the pin or side gap of the piston.

I found a doctors stethoscope in the house, would that sensor be too much? Do you think it can have spun a bearing??

It's very hard to find a kit here! Would a double row be better or is it just an increase of mass to move?

No I didn't!

Nothing else was done. In november I started taking the crank out. Regrounded and new bearings. After that I had some electrical and fuel problems and it kept the car in house until yesterday when I got a new carb and was able to go make the mandatory annual inspection and the car run pretty fine. I decided to replace the oil and filter and let the car dripping during the night. Today I installed an OEM Oil Filter and Shell Helix H7 10W40 oil, around 3,5L. After I started it that noise came up. Compression is pretty good, above 12bar in all cylinders (yes, 12 bar!). I was having oil pressure problems before but since I done this work the light never came up.

My 5K has been making a weird noise. Recently I had to reground my crank, fitted new oversized bearings. The engine made a weird noise before I do this and keep doing it right after the first startup after the work done on the crank. I thought it was bearing related but since he kept doing it, I don't know what that is. I recorded the sound on video, the car only made 150kms after the work, so I hardly believe it's bearing noise, since I tighten all bolts with the correct torque, lubrificated both crank and bearings before fitting... The sound is stronger when cold and almost inaudible when hot. I was told it can be the timing chain... So here is the video I recorded:

I don't even get what you did here, but I believe it does wonderful things hehe

I'll do that and let you know! The rubber cover from the accelerator pump is trashed... Can it do anything wrong or it just leaks fuel?

As far as I remember it really was dropping fuel in the shape of bubbles through the jet on top of the carb... I know almost nothing about carbs, I didn't knew that wasn't supposed to happen :hmm:

Amazingly this 3K carb was able to idle my 5K like an angel, never seen my engine work like that, so smooth, so quiet... This was before it started having problems...

Great stuff there rebuilder86, thank you! Do you think a 3K carb is ok for a 5K?

That's what I'll probably do! A few questions: how can a carb malfunction affect one single cylinder? Can 4K carb vacuum valves get damaged? Can they be rebuilt?

The carb that is giving a cylinder fault (but idles) is a EU 4K one with the crappy emission lines: The one with which the cylinders work fine but doesn't idle is the simple KE20 3K one:

Above 12 bar in all cylinders. Rotor, cap, points and condenser are new. No problems with the wires.

I'm having a carburettor issue that is unusal as hell. WIth a 3K carb from a KE20 the engine works well but it can't idle (it stalls)) unless chocke is pulled so it makes 2500rpms. With a 4K carb (original one) it idles perfectly, doesn't stall but shakes a lot and one cilinder isn't working. The 4K carb worked for a year with no stress until it started to give problems. The 3K carb worked well (the engine never worked so well, very smooth idle) for about 1 week. So, one carb idles but isn't working properly, the other one can't idle but works. What the hell is going on here?

Vertical play in the shaft is allowable? Like a bit less than 1mm

Ah now I get it, thanks! I think the best solution is a 4K dizzy with electronic igniton from Powerspark, am I right?

Can you please explain the bold part? Do I have to do anything or it's an automatic thing?

Still looking for opinions on this. I'm using a 2K points dizzy, not the standard 5K electronic unit

I forgot to tell I'm using a 2K points dizzy! Which may be replaced by a 4K points dizzy, so the question remains

I'm looking forward to upgrade and replace my 5K ignition system and I found these 3 parts. http://www.simonbbc.com/electronic-ignition-kits/bedford-rascal-electronic-ignition-kit http://www.simonbbc.com/ignition-coils/coils-by-vehicle/dlb110-bedford-lucas-ballast-sports-ignition-coil http://www.simonbbc.com/ignition-spares/ballast-resistor-for-use-with-a-1.6-ohms-ballast-coil-for-points-or-powerspark Do you think it's worth the money? Do you think there are better alternatives? Hit me with your opinions!

So after a weekend of tests still not running. Engine works on 4 cylinders (thankfully) but it can't idle and stalls. It idles at around 2000rpms very well for a minute or so, after this starts to choke until it stalls. For what I read it must be an air leak somewhere. Made new gaskets for the base of the carb, blocked vaccuum hoses very well and didnt make any change. I think I will need to tow the car to a shop, I can't solve it myself... I'm just gonna try to replace the PCV valve as I read it can cause rough idle and stalling, but I have no faith at all...