Viterbo

Everything is fine, I bought this tool to help me bleed the system and after a few big bubbles came up (after the thermostat open) it stabilized and no more bubbles appeared

I rebuilt and upgraded my 5K on the last months and to ensure proper cooling I upgraded my radiator. I chose a Nissan Primera GT (SR20DE) radiator because the inlet and outlet are on the same sides as my standard radiator but the Nissan one is huge! Made my way with the mounts and pipes but I'm having an issue while the engine is running. I'm still using the stock expansion bottle and when I push the engine hard the bottle overfills and spills the exceeding amount. I have 3 possible causes: 1 - Since the radiator is far bigger and takes a bigger volume of coolant, can it be expanding properly and the stock bottle is just too small? 2 - Maybe my radiator cap is faulty? 3 - Blown headgasket (unlikely since it only has 1000kms and no other headgasket related issues are present. No oil/water mixing, no overheating, nothing) As said above the engine is not overheating in any circumstance, it just expands too much coolant. Here's some pics:

I was wrong about the 15 degrees, I was cheated by the new cam profile. The TDC is accurate on the 0 mark. After some time messing with the timing I think the problem is the carb is too small and can't delivery enough AIR to the system. On low rpms (below 1600rpms) it tries to suck but gas comes out of the jet in bubbles and I think it floods due to insufficient air.

Full lift was at 104,5º with the vernier pulley untouched so I advanced it a bit to reach the 103º specified by the manufacturer. The issue is the car doesn't idle, at least below 1800rpms and with the help of the butterfly being a bit opened... In that last video you can see when I enter the car the idle drops a bit and the engine starts to miss a lot, I had the choke pulled and closed it a bit. Its enough for the engine to shut down...

This one, it's possible to see the marked link on the dot on the crank and the other link on the cam pulley oposite to the pin in the center.

Yes. Dots oposite to each other, then with the chain I stretched it making a rectangle shape with the links touching each other having a single link on each end (oposite to each other) and I marked them to ensure I place them on the dots on the pulleys. I think it's a pretty simple process leaving no room for error. No special instructions on the camshaft, just the degrees to have it dialed in (103º at full lift). I maxed out the advanced on the dizzy adjustment and had no time to advance another tooth. Tomorrow I'm going to do it and see how it reacts to more timing.

Advanced the dizzy and got a bit better but it's still like this:

Pulley is the same brand as the camshaft: Kent Cams UK The engine was running in std form before disassembly and everything from it was used so no swapped parts that could lead to error. Marks were aligned, the timing on these engines seems to be dumb proof. The pulley only has one single hole to insert in the camshaft pin so no chance to error there too... I'm going to see if the mark on the belt pulley doesn't match the new TDC, if it doesn't my timing must be around 15 degrees retarded which might well be a tooth out on the dizzy

It goes till 2800 that was the maximum it went. It misses roughly the engine shakes. I'm using standard points denso Dizzy. I think there's a possibility the timing is out, I set it according to the belt pulley mark which for some reason seems to be around 15 degrees of (piston is at TDC at 15 degrees btdc on the timing cover) and it was at 0 before. But the chain was well fitted I can ensure that

Hi Banjo, here goes some answers: 1- Engine was assembled by me 2 and 3 - Yes, degree wheel was used, I found the true TDC and then set the cam timing with a duplex adjustable pulley 4- I don't think it's starving because in the video it's me who's accelerating and the engine responds to my input very easily 5- Engine is on the car with everything attached to it ready to go for a spin 6- I do have a timing light and that's something I want to check but I need the engine at least to idle which he doesn't do atm 7- it's easier to rotate the engine without the plugs but seems pretty tight 8- only factory dash oil pressure light 9- As said on question 4 it's me who's accelerating, because I was running in the cam revving the engine between 2000 and 2500rpms, it responds rather well to the input despite the roughness behaviour

On the past months I've been building a worked 5K with the following specs: +0,5mm oversized pistons 2mm oversized valves 290º camshaft with vernier pulley set to max lift at 103º as indicated by the technical sheet 5K/3F solid lifters with 4K adjustable gear Ported head to match the 1 piece gasket Block and head machined, around 10,5:1 compression ratio. Lightened flywheel and crankshaft In order to have a smooth 1st start, particularly in order to run in the camshaft I used the standard dizzy and carb with the main jet of the carb drilled from 0.96mm to 1.1mm. This is how the engine ran: Audio isn't the best but looks like it's working on 3 cylinders or something like that, that's too many new variables for me to have a clue on what can be wrong. The car worked around 15 minutes do ensure proper run in of the cam, varying between 2000 and 2500 rpms and it never ran better than this. After that, I took my foot of the gas to see if it would idle and it shut down. The carb was set as it was removed from the engine before the disassembly (apart from the drilled jet). The car is not giving massive pops through the exhaust... Plugs left the engine dry and with a brownish color. While the engine was running I tried advancing or retarding the dizzy but apart from differences on throttle response it didn't change the roughness... EDIT: is running on 95RON

Wasn't aware of slack on the chain contributing to timing variations. Won't you be happy with a wasted spark system?

Banjo search for Speeduino. It's a fully programmable ECU developed in Arduino that can cost half of a Megasquirt price. I've spent some time thinking on a distributorless ignition but what to do with the oil pump? It'll still need the shaft in there for that. And that could be used as camshaft signal for the independent ignition.

Yes I know I can make gaskets. Not having the template to do it is the issue here... As soon as I get that one piece gasket I'm gonna create a template of it so I can get it done in the future.

Finding that gasket is going to be a nightmare. The one on eBay with shipping costs more than 30€. Already PMd oldskewltoy on porting tips, and altezzaclub to see if sending me a gasket is "doable"

I have a twin squish head that I want to apply on a worked 5K and I want to enlarge the intake and exhaust ports. I know that the one piece gasket is very good to match but I can't source one in Europe (at least at a fair price). So I would like to ask for tips on the sizes of the ports. I was told the one piece gasket is 33x30 on the intake and 27x22 on the exhaust. The intake seems fine but the exhaust sizes are almost the same as the stock head... What's the safest sizes I can go? Thanks

A Finnish company sells 83mm Wiseco pistons so I guess a 5K can take it? I also don't get it how does the 4K head fit on a 5K with this having so much more bore available...

I think early 4Ks had flat top pistons and double row chains (here in Europe almost every 4K has D dished pistons). I also upgraded my 5K from single to double

I already knew about that ToyheadAuto thermostat but was looking for a cheap option as I was told there was a Hilux or Dyna or something that had a lower temp one that fit K engines. I've been running a Payen paper headgasket on my 5K with above 12bar of compression pressure in each cylinder for almost 2 years with lots of punishment and still goes great!

I get what you're trying to say, and believe me I'm always thankful to anyone who takes some of their time to explain me something. Let's imagine I live in the hottest place on earth, I don't have any radiator selling point in a range of thousands of kms, but I have access to that specific 78°C thermostat. Will it fit? Hahaha it's really just a yes or no topic

That's exactly what I need, regulate the temperature of the cooling system to a colder temperature. I will run a very modified 5K with a Nissan Primera radiator but need to control the temps to a step colder just to keep it safe. I'm not running into any issues, I just want a lower temp thermostat to play safe. Factory thermostats weren't designed to modified engines pushed way harder than the vehicles were created for. If I noticed a difference from a 88ºC one to a 82ºC, that 78ºC might be exactly what I look for. I just need to know if it fits, considering what I exposed on the 1st post.

I just need it to open a bit sooner. When punishing the engine the temp goes a bit hotter than normal operation and I want to keep it safe.

A long time ago I bought a 5K assembled head that had some work done to it and was ready to be installed (face machined, all cleaned, etc). It had a brand new thermostat installed also so I just dropped it in. First time the engine ran the temperature went past the usual maximum point before cooling (signal of thermostat opening). Took the thermostat out and found it was an 88ºC one while I've been running an 82ºC one. Later someone told me he found a 70 something degree one but wasn't able to provide me a part number. Today I've done a bit of research. Started with my 88ºC part number (Gates TH14088G1) and was able to find several vehicles where it fits (Ford, MG, lots of Toyotas, etc). When I looked for the Daihatsu Charade G100 GTi there was a 78ºC thermostat (Gates TH29478G1) on the list along with the Gates 88ºC one. But there's a small problem, the sizes are very different and that's where I need your opinion: Gates TH14088G1 Gates TH29478G1 Both of them fit the Daihatsu, so is it safe to say they'll fit our Ks?

That's a google picture. I have a 5K but I'm running all the Starlet gear, including the Starlet fan

You can see it there