Viterbo

Yep you must move one tooth so you can have more room to increase timing.

I was about to use Felix system of converting hydraulics to solids when I read about the oil feeds needing to be blocked or it would lead to oil pressure loss. As Felix told me, he took the guts out of the hydraulics and placed the top seat into the bottom of the lifter, using suitable length pushrods. I had everything needed to do this conversion and I had to put it on hold. Felix has been offline since July and therefore he didn't answered me yet about the oil pressure loss. So I hope anyone can help me on this. I have an European 5K block with D shaped piston dish. Will I have oil pressure loss if I don't block any oil feed holes? If I do, what needs to be done? A guy I know used Chevy lifters and he didn't had any trouble at all (same kind of block). Thank you!

I read that K engines should use mineral oil and people should avoid synthetic oils. I've been using Shell Helix H7 10W40 (synthetic) in my 5K with no hassle relative to the use of this oil grade apart perhaps some lifters noise. So I was willing to try a mineral oil but some questions appear. Which brand? Which grade (15W40? 20W50?)? Checked the repair manual and it only says "SF grade", which doesn't help that much since almost every oil now is at least SL grade. My 5K was fully rebuilt, I don't have any oil consumption with the 10W40 and already has some mods (compression, flywheel, little head work, etc) and I will fit a camshaft similar to the Kent T124 and bike carbs. I don't know if this changes somehow the oil choice so I leave here this information regarding my engine. Let me hear your opinions and experiences

When going downhill the solution is to put in neutral and let it roll. The problem is my brother is tired of the problems and wants to sell the car, but he doesn't want to take the risk of going to show the car to a potencial buyer and the car reveal this problem.

I think oil smoke is blue and the smell is really unique also, fuel smoke is darker I think..

Only time the car smokes is after it stalls for having come in gear with no throttle applied. If I stop at a red light without it stalling and then drive away it doesn't smoke at all.

Few more data: Timing was below 0 degrees, distributor fully turned and I can only get around 2 degrees of advance. I think I'll need to advance a tooth to set it to 16º. ECU had error code 3 which relates to igniter information missing 4 times in a row.

I'm not sure how to check that blowby to the cam cover... I thought the same about a vacuum leak, it would be constant. And yes this engine has that waxstat thing. That oil issue only happens when letting the car rolling in gear. If my brother runs without letting that happen the engine has no oil consumption. LittleRed and is it possible to check and eliminate that pressure without disassembling the engine?

My brother has a Corolla GTi16 (AE92 hatchback) with the 2nd gen 4AGE and he's running some issues that I would apreciate help with. 1 - Cold start idle is 1300/1400 rpms when I think it should be around 2000rpms and drop to around 900. He is idling at 900 when fully warmed up but at idle I think it's too low and perhaps this is related to what's next. 2 - If he turns off the engine when fully warmed up and, let's say, 10 minutes later, he starts the engine again it suffers from idle hunting for a few seconds before stabilize. 3 - When he goes to a closed parking lot like an underground parking from a shopping the idle also gets crazy and sometime the engine stalls. 4 - Although valve seals have been changed twice(!!) the engine floods with oil when going in gear with no throttle applied like when going down a hill. As soon as he presses the clutch the revs come down and the engine stalls. When started again it blows a cloud of oil smoke through the exhaust. This really seems to be oil sucked through the valve seals when in great vacuum conditions, but changing them twice, although it helped a bit, the problem stays. Can anyone give some help? Thank you

This is something that I'm also interested in knowing. I replaced a 3.6 diff for a 4.3 from a KE36 Corolla Van and replaced the 145/80 R13 wheels for 185/60 R14 ones. At 120kmh in my speedo, the GPS is reading 96kmh.

RainWarrior just tested gutting a hydro, flipping the washer and inserting the 4K pushrod which gave me 2 issues. First the washer when flipped seems like it hasn't enough space for the pushrod to fit in the middle and don't slip to the sides. Second the pushrod will be 4 or 5mm higher than on the 4K lifter...

No need to worry about that, here in Europe 4K head is the same as 5K one. D shaped dished pistons in both!

So I have 4K pushrods and rocker gear and 5K hydros, pushrods and rocker gear. 5K head is the same as 4K with a good skim with a perfectly normal paper gasket (Payen). So if I gut the hydros, flip the washer and fit the 4K pushrod on top of the washer on the bottom of the lifter, with 4K adjustable rocker gear, I'll be fine? I also have a 4K cam, so it is designed for solids!

They're making a really awfull and agressive noise... Already disassembled and cleaned everything and still the same..

So you let the washer inside upside down with no more inner parts? Basically the washer goes to the bottom and the pushrod also goes to the bottom?

I'm in Portugal. Can you explain me that process like I am a very dumb guy? The lifter top and bottom faces are totally different. The bottom part is a very flat surface to work on the cam as the top part it's concave so the pushrod will fit in there. Would the top part work well on the cam and would the pushrod work well on the flat surface? What pushrods shall I use? 4K ones? Sorry for so many questions but I'm just not seeing how a flipped lifter could work :bash:

I know about 3F lifters, but I'm just not gonna pay 23€ per each...

I thought of something to convert my hydraulic lifters to solid ones and would like to know what you guys think about. I have a 4K and a 5K. Both use D shaped pistons and I want to convert my hydraulics to solids in my 5K as they are too noisy... If I take the spring out and fill the lifter with washers (or something else) blocking the movement of the inner body, would I be able to use 4K pushrods and rocker gear? After measuring everything to know how much to fill the lifter, of course...

Thanks for all the tips, I think I have someone with used lifters in good shape! Can anyone explain me the best way to fit camshaft bearings? Can I use brake cleaner to clean the lifters?

Without taking out the head yet 3 issues were found: 3 lifters are defective, camshaft bearings look like they are the factory ones and the chain guide (not the tensioner) has a lot of wear... I disassembled one of the damaged lifters and when I assembled it back it became "good" without the gap it was showing before. Can it be used or it will get faulty again?

I've done a bit less than 200kms but I wasted around 30L of fuel in addition to those kms with the car standing just testing carbs (I got carb issues and had to replace it). I think the car worked an amount of time to do more than 500kms. Haven't measured since the rebuild

Nop, just petrol and oil hehe I'm gonna take the lifters out and check them. A couple of photos:

I mentioned tuning valve gaps to refer to the process. Cross valves in cylinder 1 to tune cylinder 4. But instead of tuning the gap, I tried to find a pushrod working differently from others. I'm using standard hydraulic lifters.

Banjo the stethoscope test pointed to the rear of the engine around the piston area. I was told to make the following test: Do the process of tunning valve gaps and check for gap on the pushrods by moving them up and down by hand and found this: all pushrods are rock solid (no movement) except 2. From front to back, pushrods 4 and 6 (cylinder 2 and 3) have a gap of 1mm or so and we can hear a "tac tac". Does this mean anything?

Crank and bearings are perfect, nothing spun, no marks... Piston pins apparently have no gap... Haven't checked side gap on the piston heads yet. Chain doesn't seem to have much gap to cause a knock like this. No marks on the timing cover of the chain hitting it. I'm running out of options for the problem...