BreakDave - GT

I would not guarantee that the RE60 would work in it, they are very similar in principle but when we have overhauled alt we just use the indentical replacement reg... makes sense and then can be assured there wont be a problem there. Those regs are still available, but u may have to try an auto electrical supplier. Now... i'll try to simplify everything for a sec. When testing an alt on the bench, the only things hooked up to get it to work are: 1. Warning Light: More than likely that push on terminal on the old loom to 'L' terminal on reg (can be checked as mentioned in previos post) 2. The big B+ to the back stud/bolt on alt.... ie. the ring terminal in that loom 3. The earth: not needed when u put it on the car, as alt is grounded through the block etc 4. Sense: Use another eyelet terminal off the B+ and connect to the other pin in reg, 'S' That is all i needs to run and charge like normal, the D+ and D- terminals are not needed as they are connected through the plug on the reg. As for beefing up the B+.... depending on what output that alt can produce, i'd definately recommend it as that existing loom doesnt look like it would handle much more than 40 Amps. It doesnt matter if u go from the battery or the starter, as the main cable from battery to starter is thicker anyway.

Firstly... why didnt u use the same regulator that came out of that alternator... either re71/72 it is i think. To find which wire controls warning light on dash... u can probe the existing corolla wiring with test light when ignition is on... until it comes on the dash. that wire goes to L terminal... thats it for that bit. With D+ terminal, the regulator finds an earth through the alternator to bring warning light on.... so initially D+ is an earth.... when it begins to charge, it becomes battery/charge voltage, around 14 volts and turns the warning light off on dash (as now has positive both sides of warning light globe) What output was this alternator? did u beef up that cable to B+. Also the correct plug for that RE60 regulator can be bought as a part.... will look tidier and easier to connect up.

yeh the stator windings were glowing red... then after few seconds when we really had it cranking....the insulation almost caught fire and smoke pissed out everywhere. was exceptional fun... for few seconds it lasted

yeh... I'm pretty sure 12V is always the voltage in the field circuit (when the alternator is charging bout 14V), the output voltage of around 14.4V is regulated by adjusting the current flow through the field circuit (ie the rotor) to a max around 4-5 Amps for max output. we had a 12V alternator on the bench with regulator disconnected and full rotor current charging at around 40Volts (not amps) with it spiking at over 100 volts, as to say it disintegrated within about 5 seconds.

no worries... in relation to the wiring size and what current (amps) it can handle; a 110 AMP alternator is not goin to charge at 110 AMPS all the time.... this is just a maximum output figure. if u are running a ridiculous sound system and 4 sets of driving lights u may get close to this figure, but on a carby 4K it wont get close. for peace of mind if u wanted to use an alternator rated at 70+ Amps u could run an auxillary battery cable lead from the B+ on the alt to either the B+ on battery or starter (whichever closer) of bigger sized cabling (6-8 GAUGE/B&S) to handle the possible extra current. just make sure its in conjuit and away from exhaust etc. if u have any other q's just yell out Dave

i think i may be of some help here.... the 'truck alternator' u have the pic of looks more like one off a VS commodore... with the re71/72 regulator on it. the two pins in that plug: 1. 'L' controls the warning light on the dash (must be operational for alt to charge) 2. 'S' is actually a sense terminal which senses battery voltage and can step up the charge rate to compensate for extra load... ie h/lights/stereos...etc but can be simply linked to the main B+ stud on back of alternator

first things first... check for 12V to one side of the switch.... and then 12V to the other side when the brake pedal is depressed.

the gravity feed has worked on 400hp circuit racing cars no probs and i doubt u would have as much corner speed as em to cause fuel surge!

well the beauty of that set up... without the lift pump... is that u don't need a lift pump lol ie cheaper.... i'm sure u would ever run out of fuel with it either, ie in cornering.

what car this goin in mate? i have seen it done on k series corollas where the original fuel tank gravity feeds a approx. 2L surge tank that sits in the spare tyre well. the surge is fed by short piece of inch diameter hose from the tank, and an external pump draws from the surge, with the return lines also goin to surge.

without knowing too much bout ur conversion... Are you using commodore or corolla fuse box? ur best option would be to get a wiring diagram for the model car you got your engine out of... ie VS commodore or similar at a guess, and follow it starting with the main cables in the fuse box such as the power/battery feeds and earths. Dave

Also depends on how much cash u wanna spend mate... if your pockets are extremely deep, even think about goin 3SGTE or 4AGTE... much more expensive than a 3TC, but bout 10 times the potential tho! A 2.6 Astron... i'll give u credit for one thing... its different, but many toyota people will be having nightmares

Although it is possible that it could be a computer problem ECU/BCM, i would look at everything else first as its not exactly going to be a cheap exercise to replace it and would not guarantee to fix it. Have u had any warning lights appear on the dash? ie. ECM or check engine light. As a computer problem would more than likely bring up a fault code in the computer and bring on the warning light! It could well be an earthing problem of some sort as the headlights are earth switched. No offence to your mechanic but i'd doubt they would have the experience of these probs to sort it out, definately one for an auto elec.

.... and also how hard would they be to get ur hands on one of these?

Fake NOS is definately the go for one of these spin-off's..