Rollaboy2608
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Posts posted by Rollaboy2608
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even simpler, check your plugs, as they are critical, and often left unchecked.
Also, often they can look fine, but are actually fcuked
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Winke, porting and polishing has nothing to do with a clean engine bay.
You have to think before you post dude!!!!!!!!!
Give the bay a good degrease, thats a good lace to start, making sure you cover electronic or electric components.
Then, if your really anal, start pulling things off one at a time, then paint polish or hit them with brake cleaner.
This should give you the desired finish
It really depends on whether you're after show engine bay, or clean factory bay
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if you were really energetic, you could make a hall effect pickup for the crank pulley, and adapt a sensor to it.....
Probably easier to go the dizzy route though
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The only thing is, by doing that, how can you be sure you are building a system that is evenly matched? Bigger or more expensive, isnt always better.
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unlikely. You need a wiring diagram from both vehicles.
I'd also pull out your old unit, just in case, as you never know. Its worth checking
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from my experience, the 05 rolla and the Yaris share different wiring configs. Its a shame you don't have an 07 Rolla, because they are basically the same :nervous:
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Redline is tha shit, having said that, it isa K50, is it really worth it???
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Thought I'd drop my two cents worth in....
The 7K flywheel and clutch will not fit in a K bell housing, trust me I tried every avenue and it just wont happen, unless you remove metal from the inside of the box, and after that you wont have any adjustment, because the throw out bearing rests on the pressure plate. You must use the 4k clutch/flywheel
Also, I don't know if this will be the same for KE70 as it was for my 30, but the heater outlet pipes are smaller on the car than on the engine, and mine is carb'd, so there is f@$k all room for fitting up heater lines, which might not matter to some, but it is annoying.
Put it this way, its not a bolt in like some would have you believe, and 7K engines are easily obtained, but shop around, as I paid way too much for mine, in hindsight.
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geez talk about multiple topic posting!!!
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check needle and seat, easy to do, costs a few bucks, also check for vacuum leaks
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where would you like to go? I'm going test driving new cars on saturday in Blacktown, will probably be in the Rolla
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where did you get them from? I'd be after a pair, otherwise they wont match
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thats actually a good one Winke, I hadnt seen that on RSP before.
I've looked around, and havent been able to find any rust repair panels for KE30's at all, or new panels for that matter. A pair of chinese new guards came up once on Ebay, but i missed out on them, and havent seen them since
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Winke, you obviously havent seen how much a clean KE with a 4AGE engine will go for these days.
And you really shouldnt say that you don't know anything, because if you don't, you probably shouldnt be commenting :sob:
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For a second there I thought you payed $6,000 for just a KE35 with a 3k in it.. I was going to say..
Well.. maybe try and work it out. 4-AGE front cuts are around $2,000 - $2,500. Good condition (No rust, good interior etc) KE35 would be maybe $1,500 to $3,000
Just some people want to pay the money, some don't..
Its pointless to add the sum of what a front cut would/might cost, with the estimated value of a standard KE35.
There are many more points to consider, such as:
How professionally carried out was the conversion?
How well does it drive? rattles,squeaks,vibrations, all these things are things that I try to pick up on, especially when conversions have been done.
Has it had a respray?Does it have rust? Dents? bog ripple?
Interior? rips, stains, original, reupholstered?
Service life? Stereo?
All these things add to the evaluation for me. I would never add the price of a motor to the "normal" price of a car and make an estimation based solely on that assumption
An item is only ever worth what someone is WILLING to pay for it. e.g XY GTHO Falcon $750k WTF???????
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look, I'm sorry, I didnt mean to knock you personally, it just seems like alot of the members of this forum, seem to be too lazy to do their own "legwork" and find out things for themselves.
When I go to buy anything, I always enquire with every provider of that product/service I can find, because sometimes the difference in price can be astronomical.
The more you shop around, the more you learn, and thats not directed solely at you, it should be for all members who don't realise this simple fact.
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looks pretty tidy to me, I would say $6000 grand no worries, as long as paint/interior/running gear all good quality?
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ring a suspension shop. If AE70 knew the price, his forum identity would probably be "AE70 suspension".
But its not, so use the phone, or speak with GSL. Try a member search!!!!
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good call, always helps with ease of reinstallation
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get yourself a can of penetrant, and a soft faced hammer, as sometimes the shaft can be rusted in the hub end where it splines with the shaft. You might need to give it a good smack.
DO NOT hit the end with a normal hammer, as you'll flare the end of the shaft
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full stops how dare you taz!
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hmmmmm.....
"hey bro, my car is fully Mojito, yeah?"
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can someone close this for the love of god
Questions? Battery Relocation Help
in General Mechanical
Posted
too right, in fact, unless its absolutely necessary, i wouldnt shift my battery to the boot, as you're only increasing the chance of getting a bad earth or a major voltage drop