Rosegum

Transmission power loss in rear wheel drive is 30-40% of flywheel power where front is only 5-10%So a 100KW 4A-ge in Front wheel will pull 80-90 KW at the back it will pull 50-60 KW low boost would pull you up to 70 odd with good tuning, good components maybe even 75-80 KW

From the land of the great south east. Brisvegas. I can understand the easy hp transplant method but i'm a purist Toyota's are Toyota's and Ford's are Ford's, and no Nissan junk should ever infect a toyota engine bay. It seems more like a cancerous part than an upgrade. To me it'll be the bit that'll go wrong first.

wouldnt having 4age's make it an AE7x comp anyway? eg 2,3,4k in ke and 2,3,4a-c,fc,fe,ge in ae and now zz engines in zze's what does an SAS cost?

An engine is an engine physical dimensions are the only real limitation to installing whatever you want everything else is ancillary, a gasless mig and an arc and metal is more like paper. Cut and paste. My friends old man put a Cummins 210 8.3L 6cyl Diesel out of an LN8000 with an Allison 6 speed electronic auto into a '78 F-150 Custom. It all depends on how keen you are. I have noticed with toyota's that they don't like to change design often and love backwards compatibilty so keeping your changes inside the engine family will make things alot easier. Then again i've been sitting at the weighbridge and had what i thought was an AE86 pull on. Getting weighed for Blue plate and rego he popped the bonnet and i found out it was an SR86. Yup a Nissan SR-20 DET. I was a little upset at the idea but i said nothing. All i needed was the misfiring as he took off. Goes to show nothing is impossible.

The distrtibutor on the 4a-c is located on the front of the engine or in RWD the right side at the back. there's nowhere else for it to go as it's a sideflow head,(exhaust and intake on same side of head). The 4a-fe dissy is located on the right hand side of the head or in RWD the back. a 4a-fc is more likely to be easier than an fe but some changes still may need to be made to the loom eg. sensor connectors won't fit, electronic distributor and so on.

Any A block motor will bolt to the mounts. Mounts are easily available for other versions that will adapt to your motor of choice. Going outside an A series engine is going to require An engineer certificate, blue plate or whatever it is in your state/territory. From experience no loom change is an easy loom change. I tend to strip the loom and rebuild it the way i need it to be, but if your not real keen try to stay with something that is as close as possible, to the original engine and save the hassle. you may only need a few extra links to get up and running. EFI systems also have extra relay's which you may have to add. Electric Fuel pump and high pressure filter need to go in as well. EFI is a big step but the economy and controlled power make it all worth while. Haven't dealt much with clutches sorry, I've blown more than 20 diffs, half a dozen cv's, several uni joints but never had issues with my clutches or gearboxes, so i've never fiddled.

i've had a 4a-fe next to a 2a-c and the only difference you see externally is head up everything else is the same. Excluding starter motor which is a blanking plate change. Both sides of gearbox provide option for starter mounting. If it's an A block the outside cast appears the same internals are changed mildly thru the series. So if a 4A-C can sit NS then an F will too. Manifold's may be an issue as F heads are crossflow C are side.

Good luck be sure to let us know how it goes.

From a chemist i once had the foolishness to talk about "Stale fuel" with he informed me the half life of unleaded petrol is approximately 25 years, which means it takes 25 years to lose half it's energy. So over 2 years the octane may have dropped maybe 1 or 2 ron, not enough to make a noticeable difference in an older engine. Of course that's only if the fuel hasn't already evaporated.

pinging sound's like your valves are bouncing off the camshaft, sort of a tick tick tick. It happens when there is too much air and not enough fuel. When air is compressed it get's hot and if the fuel vapour is too thin it can ignite from the heat of the air pressure before the plug can spark which creates 2 waves of energy which crash into each other and make's the noise you hear, like thunder, or a sonic boom inside your engine, because the fuel burns quicker it burns hotter which toasts your valves. they aren't cast like a block they are machined from softer metals making them easier to burn(lower melting point). and oil, if you want your engine to last, flush it with some cheap woolies rock oil and get 2 oil filters, 1 for the flush and 1 when she's ready for driving. After flushing fill it with GTX-2. I've had friends try synthetic's but they all had tappy engines after a few days. The older engines like the heavy stuff.

1. Dump the oil and give it a fresh gutfull that way some of the oil will coat the insides as it filters down. 2. Install a healthy battery, and check fuses for blowouts. Replace where necessary. A fuse blowout denotes a failure in the electrical system and if fuses blow regularly consult an Auto sparky immediately. My mother's tarago nearly went up in flames because my step father thought seeing a 10A fuse kept blowing he put in a 40A. The direct short cooked a relay and set fire to the fuse box. 3. Get a can of start ya bastard or whatever you can find and spray a decent amount into the induction, about 5 seconds worth. A) EFI is a little trickier, hopefully there is a rubber hose attached between your plenum chamber and your air filter box, disconnect the end closest to the plenum chamber, and spray into plenum, reattaching hose before attemting to start. B) Carbed is easy, remove the air filter and spray through the barrels of the carb. 4. A) If it's EFI check that the fuel pump is making noise(most commonly in the tank), wait for 30 seconds then start the engine. B) If it's carbed pull on the choke a bit unless it's auto choked in which case you don't get a choice. If the engine doesn't self advance at cold start the auto choke spring may have worn and needs to be replaced to maintain fuel efficiency. Start the engine and let it idle out the SYB sprayed in, if the engine stalls spray more in and repeat 3 or 4 times. If the engine fails to maintain idle after that remove the fuel pump and check the diaphragm for holes, splits or tears. Replace pump if necessary. let the engine idle up for 5 mins before revving especially in a carbed vehicle sitting for long periods as the jets can calcify or get blocked up with carbon and it takes a little while for the fuel to clean the junk out. If the engine takes in large amounts of air and little fuel it is very easy to get pinging or pre-ignition which can burn the bejesus out of your valve faces and seats. With any luck it should start fine. Being 4a-c it's carbed, i'm not big on sprinter info, does it have accommodation for EFI? The old pushrod 4k would enjoy a heavy grade old engine oil, But i've always recommended Castrol GTX-2 for the 4a-c it's what it rolled out of the factory with why not keep it that way.

I'm on the same caper except i have an AE80 in the backyard instead, engine bay wise almost exactly the same excluding support for EFI. The engine is bolted in place and i'm currently having the exhaust manifold welded as it had cracked in half. I'm too cheap to buy extractors at the moment and i have a mate that is a master boiler maker. Apparently the manifold's crack regularly and i can understand why, the casting method left a thinner section in the wall of everyone that i have seen so far. a mate told me a fella on ebay has 100 of em for sale but yet again I'm too cheap. The radiator outlets do not match but when i get to it i'll find another vehicles hoses that fit. However the bottom outlet should still fit with the standard hose and some gentle persuasion. i'm yet to find out if the starter motor causes any issue but i'm sticking with the C40 that came with the car for now till i shatter something. I like the ratio's in the box and the old 1300 use to peak at 6800, 1,200rpm above factory spec. when you attach a 4a-fe block to a c40-50 the starter location is maintained by the blanker plate attached to the engine. mine is on the back as this is a crossflow engine, unlike the old 2a which was a sideflow and mounted the starter at the front, which annoyed me as everytime i adjusted the distributor, as i undid the nut the spanner end would often smack straight into the head of the solenoid cap which eventually fell loose. sometimes i'd jam a piece of wood between the radiator hose and the cap so it would fire the starter. Although there is a support bar that reaches from the plenum to half way down the block, i'm wondering if it's removal would structurally weaken the intake manifold. I'm wiring in a MegaSquirt Version 2.2. to control injector timing and as there was no factory efi option i'm adding an efi relay and fuse box spearate to the standard loom. i've got all the major sensor's and stuff hooked up, coolant temp oil pressure intake air temp 2 bar MAP sensor (built into MS) injectors what i need to find out is the colour code for distributor wiring 6 pins and 2 pins what I'm guessing is the idle controller 3 pins everything else is ready to roll if anyone can help maybe a schematic from 90's model corolla or nova it would be greatly appreciated sorry to hijack the thread if there's any help i can provide don't hesitate to ask