ausca62
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Posts posted by ausca62
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Bring on the VSD..............................do it.
I've got a couple planned.
DIY - painting garage floor
DIY - Wiring up VSD to Lathe
sometime this decade.
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Hi Dougal, sorry for the delay in replying. yes mate still use the KE20 hubs. Just need to redrill the new disc's to suit the mounting bolts from the hub. I will take a few pics when I get a chance and post them. Cheers mate. Paul.
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Hi mate, is that a twin master cylinder setup and if so how much, also the fuel tank. Cheers, Paul.
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Hi Guys, I set up my dummy disc and all went well so I went on ebay to look for new rotors. DBA standard rotors were $70.00 delivered a pair or crossdrilled were $367 a pair. I couldn't justify spending an extra $297 for holes so I went for the standard one's and drilled them myself.
Here is a quick guide on how to do it.
I started with a blank disc and counted the cooling vents. Then worked out my pattern I wanted a hole in each vent and double up on every third hole. I then made a template that sat against the centre hub that I could use to mark my holes and then slide it around to the next set.
Then it was just a matter of using a centre punch to mark out where to drill.
Then drill your holes (through both sides) then using a countersink drill or a larger drill and countersink all the holes on both sides.
And now the finnished product. I went for a spiral pattern and this is easly don by flipping over the template so the spiral goes the opposite direction. That way te disc's are directional as seen in the next pics.
There is a big difference between the old disc's and the new ones. Should stop very well.
I will have more when I get them mounted to the hub. Any questions, fell free. Cheers. Paul.
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They are 5/8 cylinders from memory,
The only thing we brought was the shaft that carries the spherical brg and ends.
Tilton do the shaft and also a remote adjuster as well.
You can it in this pic, RH corner, the red knob!!
Thank's again mate, you'r a champion. Paul.
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Thanks Paul
I do believe i only have these photos.
The biggest thing is the pedal ratio, i think we had to move our pivot point up to get a 5 -1 ratio, pedals like it's boosted.
Thanks heeps for that, 5-1 sounds good. You have saved me heeps of time, trial and error with that. Are they clutch masters you have used? Thank's again. Paul.
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Anyhow, Tony is still turning up the housings for the spherical bushes while I finished mounting the pedal box and screwing all the cylinders into place. Yip, that took me all day!!! :lolcry:
Hi mate, firstly I have to say, LOVE YOUR WORK. It is one flash bit of gear. I was just wondering if you had any photo's of the brake pedal box before you fitted it. I am very interested in doing simmilar on my KE20. Thanks. Paul.
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Hi Guys, back again. Well I got some VH Commodore calipers from the wreckers. They are the same size and offset as all commodore's from VB to VN so you could use any of these. There are a few different brands, Girlock, PBR etc. I have gone for the Girlock because they are a bit lighter.
These are the new mounting brackets for the calipers. I hope you can follow the diagram. Ifyou need any more info just ask me.
Start by removing the old calipers. The old Sumitomo's were fine for Hillclimb's (a one lap dash) but when you start doing a few laps at Phillip Island or Sandown, you soon want more. I think the mounting for the drum brakes is the same so you could use this upgrade for drum brake cars aswell. {If some one could confirm that it would be good.} Remove the old brackets and bolt on the new ones.
Now to bolt on the new caliper and see if I can get the 13' wheel on.
Better try both sets incase they are slightly different
All Good. There is about 5mm to 6mm clearance at the closest point, between caliper and wheel and a good preportion of the caliper is out of the wheel and in the air streem so will be good for cooling.
I got an old magna disc from the wreckers for $5.00 that I am going to use as a dummy, and if it all fits up ok, I will buy a set of new one's to use. The old disc diameter was 216mm and the new one's are 266mm so it should do the job.
Cheers for now. Paul.
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We used to get a Mini rear brake limiter from the wreckers & drill/tap the end of it. Then we would fit a bolt with a "T" piece welded to it in that hole.
When we wound it in it would push against the limiting spring, increasing the pressure that the rear brakes were fed. That way we could sit in the car and alter rear brake bias in a special stage.
So if your rear brakes are going to be too big, fit something like that where you can dial in the amount of pressure going to them.
Thanks again mate for your input. I am thinking of doing a twin master cylinder setup that has adjustable bias between the two, but this sounds like a good cheep alternative untill then. Cheers, Paul,
Thanks for the support Willis.
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Hi guys, been a while. I have new motovation. Last weekend I did a V8 Racecar drive day at Sandown (a Christmas preasent from my kids) and I relised that I haven't lost the bug. My poor old racer has been sitting there for the last six months and the only time some one goes near it is to stack some more shit on the roof. Time to get back onto it. I'm not getting any younger.
I went out to the shed and got a major supprise. My ars still fits into the race seat. It felt good to sit in it again. I turned on the battery isolater and then the ignition switch and to my supprise everything lit up. Next I hit the primary fuel pump switch and away it went. After 20 seconds to fill the swirl pot I hit the main fuelpump switch and the big Holley Blue wirred into life. Fuel pressure up to 5psi, a few pumps on the throttal, and hit the starter button. ...............Away she went. Now I'm realy pumped.
Where too from here. There is so much I have to do and I want it back on the track by August this year for her 41st birthday. The weak link in the car is the diff. It still runs the Corolla Borgy diff and although I have never broken an axel, I have done one centre. I am going to use a Skyline (R31) diff but that would mean that the rear brakes would be bigger than the fronts. My wife suggested I start from the front and work back, so thats what I am going to do.
Front brake upgrade
A while ago I purchased some brackets off caibs, (a rollaclub member from WA) But they didn't come with much info so I was flying blind. I knew they used Commodore calipers and Magna rotors but didn't know what model. I started with Vs Commodore calipers but they were to big. (I need to run 13" wheels because I use Formular Ford and Formula 3 tyres) I will try early Commodore ones next and see how I go. When I get it all worked out I will do an indepth guide on how to do them, including a detailed plan of the brackets so If anybody else wants to do the same conversion, the hard work will be done. If anybody has already done this conversion and can help with info, let me know. Also seeking info on R31 diff into KE20.
Cheers guys. Paul.
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TOYOTA KE 20 COROLLA SHELL MINUS MOTOR AND BOX
Found on Gum Tree
Date Listed 03/12/2011
Last Edited 31/12/2011
Price $100.00
Address Exeter TAS 7275, Australia
Make Toyota
Model Corolla
Body Type Coupe (2 door)
Year 1971
Kilometers 10
Cheers Paul.
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Hi everyone!
Took this pic of my Panno the other week and thought i'd stick it up cos i think it looks sweet...
There's a few more pics of it in my profile if you want to check it out, and a link to a vid on youtube on here somewhere too ;D
Dave
Mate, look's tufffff. Can you tell me where you got the front spoiler and if I can get one for my ke20. Cheers Paul.
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Hi mate,
good luck with the new venture. I hope it all goes well for you both. I take it you are in VIC. If so and you want to have a go at a Khanacross on our hill climb track, you are more than welcome. We hold a Kahanacross once a month and cater for all. (Kids from 12 years old up to old farts like me.) The next one is on the 4th of Sept. We are prety casual about scrutineering just as long as the car is safe. You will need a Cams L2 licence (which you can get on the day if you don't have one already.) If you or any other Rolla club members need any more info, contact the Gippsland Car Club, Kahanacross Director ( me ) on 0427 852179. BTW, its only $15 for junior's and $20 for adults.
http://www.gippslandcarclub.com.au/documents/gcc_calendar.pdf
http://www.gippslandcarclub.com.au/about.html
Cheers, Paul.
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i wipe it on man then pva over the top
Thanks Phil,
I will give it a crack in a few weeks. I am racing on the 19th and 26th so it looks like next month could be the go. When you say wipe it on, I assume you mean with a rag? Then the PVA. do I also apply it with a rag or brush?
Cheers. Paul.
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Hey mate if i was you I would use wax aswell you can never have to many release agents I used to make dashes and other conversion parts for hummers out of fibre glass and I always used wax and a PVC spray it just insures it will release with minimal effort
thanks Brendan,
I went out and got some wax but again no instructions. can you tell me how you apply the wax. Is it just a case of applying with a rag or is there more to it.
Cheers man. Paul.
P.S. the product is called Nu - Cearawax Made by Huntsman Composites.
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Nice build! I'm in Bairnsdale, saw that you were in Gippsland. Just saw your request for fibreglass info etc a couple of pages back. Frecheville Heaney Boatbuilders in Paynesville is by far the cheapest you will find (trade prices), its 10 minute drive for me but I have no idea exactly where you are. I have some experience depending where you are. or can put some advice up on traps
Hi Mitchell. Thanks for the info. My main concern is getting the flare stuck in the mould. I have a PVA based release agent But I am not sure if I need to use wax as well. I rang the manufacturer but they where useless. There answer was, "I'm not sure but you can if you want to" WTF.......
I am near Warragul but our track is in Newbourgh near Morwell. Are you interested in doing them for me?
Cheers mate. Paul
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Build is coming along well mate.
Could you give me some specs on the Commodore sway bar please? Diameter/length between arms, length of arms?
Cheers,
Dougal
Hi Dougal, sorry for the delay in getting back to you. The bar is 750mm wide from eye to eye and the arms are 260mm long from pivot point to eye center. It is 19mm diameter.If you need any more info, or photo's of particular things let us know. Cheers man. Paul.
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NEED HELP...............I raced last weekend and got my ass kicked. I want to piss off all the polution gear. There is 2 vac pipes to the vac advance on the dizzy Whats the difference between the 2 and which one do I use when using a different carby. Cheers Paul.
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Hi Guys, I have an AE82 running a 4A m/t and I want to piss off the anti pollution gear. Has anybody done a carby change and what did you use? This car is only a fill in race car till I get my KE20 back on the road so I don't want to spend big bucks. I don't mind making an adapter plate of even a new intake manifold just want to know what works. Any help much appreciated. Cheers Paul.
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hey mate looking good so far, I'm eager to begin my project but with the advice from the old man i decided to hold of until later on this year in order to get well informed about legality of the mods i am going to do and also dealing with engineer certificates and so on...bloody vic roads!
Just wanted to ask you about the roll cage that you have, I don't know much about them how much they cost or anything, was wondering if you could share some info with me? Or anyone else that knows about them?
Hi mate, I take it you are in Vic. Do you want a roll cage for competition or for looks? Is the car for the road or the track. If its for the road, then you will have issues with Vic roads. If its for track work, the cheepest place in Vic is Trik Rollcages in Dandinong.03 97918622. They build a good cage at a fair price. Every year Cams regs for roll cages change so don't get your cage untill you are ready to log book the car or you may find it is out of date before you start. Once the car is log booked, the changes don't effect it. (This is assuming you want it for comp). Cheers Paul
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G'day Paul.
Thanks for the encouragement.
EA82 eh, i used to have a little white one. Fun little things, never liked the gearbox shift on them but the 4age was a revvy litte sucker :)
Couldnt you just steal a ride in the Pulsar ??
Your car will be fantastic when finished, hey I liked it before you started.
2TG...mmmmm, one day maybe.
Oh, if you ever feel inclined to make up another panhard rod setup and sell it, let me know :)
That cage fits fine as a half cage, but the front hoops are not suitable for the 20, wrong angles in bends. Will look into getting something sorted out there later.
I know being a Bond alloy one it wont ever be CAMS happy, but hey, i wont ever be competing in it at state level either so it's not a problem for me.
Not in a club at the moment. Need to look into that and find one that suits. Actually , havent been in one for about 18 years come to think of it.....geez. am i that old.... :)
I want to enter the occasional sprint, autocross, hillclimb etc.
Nothing serious , just for fun.
Also don't mind the occasional social type event or helping out with marshalling etc.
Cheers,
Dale
Dale, our club is just what you want..
http://www.gippslandcarclub.com.au/about.html
Yes I thought about pinching the Pulsar for a while but it is a 1.8 ltr and I run Sports Sedan >1600 so I couldn't accumulate points for the championship. We have a Kahana Cross in a couple of weeks and you can join the club on the day and get your Cams licence as well.
With the roll cage, the car that it came out of had no dash so it ran further foward. You might be able to shorten the top of the hoop and see how you go,. If not, I will swap you a panhard rod for the left over bits as i need to make some anti intrusion bars for my KE20.
Hope to see you soon. Cheers Paul.
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The Commodore bar.
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Budget priced rear swaybar upgrade.
Hi guys, been a bit slack latley but I have upgraded my rear sway bar. I used the rear swaybar off a VR Commodore. It was an ezy fit and not expensive. Swaybar from the wreckers $10. (They arn't in big demand so they will just about give them away). I used Nissan Patrol front swaybar links ( $38 a pair at Repco) or you could get them from the wreckers and a couple of bits of angle.
The bar actualy mounts foward and with a couple of bits of plate on the inside of the floor ( under the rear seat so they are not visable from the inside) the job is done.
The mountings
I will add more pics soon, Where to mount the angle etc. My camera batery has died.
1970 Toyota Corolla Ke11 2 Door Sedan
in eBay Items
Posted
Hi guys, not ebay. Shannons
http://www.shannons.com.au/auctions/lot/EXF0AC8K4QL39AR
Lot 1
1970 Toyota Corolla KE11 2 Door Sedan
Guiding Range
$3,000 - $5,000
Engine: 1166cc In-Line 4cyl Gearbox: 4-Speed Manual Body work: Sedan Colour: White Engine No.: 3K5014908 Chassis No.: KE11 801322 Interior: Black Trim: Vinyl Wheels: Steel Disc Brakes: Drums
Hi guys, not ebay. Shannons.
Vehicle Report
To view the Pre-Purchase Inspection Report on this vehicle, click the "Download Report" button
Description
The first generation of Toyota's amazing Corolla series emerged in late 1966. Known as the KE10 in initial four-cylinder, 1077cc, two or four-door sedan form there were also KE15 hardtop coupe and KE16 wagon variants. In the second half of 1969, the engine was updated to 1166cc and 48kW (up from 44kW) and with it each variant was renamed- KE11 for the sedan, KE17 hardtop and KE18 for the wagon. These were tied to a simple four-speed floor-shifted manual transmission with a two-speed automatic transmission also available. Right from 1966 Corollas were exported to Australia, the Toyota plant in Port Melbourne in charge of local assembly and as a result the Corolla has enjoyed a strong Australian following throughout its incredible 46 years in production.
History
- Believed to be a one-owner car
- Full service history
- NO RESERVE
This KE11 two-door Corolla sedan is believed to be a one-owner vehicle from new. It runs the 1166cc engine and four-speed manual combination and has clearly been well looked after throughout its life. It's believed a new engine was fitted in the late eighties along with an after-market radio system. The extensive history file indicates the car was involved in a 'No fault' accident in 1994. All receipts and claim paperwork surrounding the accident and repairs are included in the file. With owner's book and maintenance manual, this spritely KE11 has been well cared for and is ready for a new home. To be sold unregistered with NO RESERVE.
Note: Shannons advise that all potential buyers research all vehicles before purchase to authenticate originality.
Lot1.pdf