ausca62
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Posts posted by ausca62
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thanks again mate and thanks from the 4a. I can now keep it at half respectable revs. Paul.
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trev u r a ledgend. It is going into an ae82. Thanks man
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Hi Guys
I have an Autogage tacho by Auto Meter But I have lost the wireing diagram.
It has 4 main wires, red,black, green & white. 2 small orange & 2 small brown wires. and 2 black wires together with a plug on the end. I would assume the latter to be the shift light but could be wrong.
Thanks for any help. Paul.
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Oooo springs look nice. What are you revving it out to now?
Recently got the 2TG tuned by Fours n More / Sleeka for 7000RPM on stock motor, so should be interesting when we get the dual springs in :D
Hi mate, I will be setting the shift light to 7300 and want to limit the revs to 7500. What car are you running the 2tg in? and how mutch did you pay for the tune?
Cheers Paul.
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One thing I forgot.
Springs, $90.
Flat bar, $4.
Total $94.
Budget Racer...................
ONE SET OF BRAND NEW HEAVY DUTY DOUBLE VALVE SPRINGS TO SUIT THE TOYOTA 2T, 3T, 18R, 2TG, 3TGTEU & 18RG ENGINE'S. THESE VALVE SPRINGS ARE A MUST WHEN BUILDING A HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINE OR EVEN SOME INSURANCE ON A STANDARD BUILD.
These springs are manufactured to a strict quality standard to ensure that you get the best for your dollar.
These springs come to you already scragged to save you time (scragging is a process where the spring is compressed to solid before checking loads and our springs are scragged individually to ensure each spring is to solid height before checking, unlike most that are scragged to height somewhere close to solid.)
The spring wire is also double eddy current tested to a depth of 40 microns and any wire detected with flaws is sprayed, the coiling machine picks this up and rejects these sections.
These springs have also been rattled tested on a specially designed machine which we can put a cam lobe into and run a complete set up (lifter, spring, retainers, push rod, rocker and valve) and check for harmonics.
Add to this the fact that these springs are also designed on SRAMA, a computer program from the Institute of Spring Technologies, which gives us all stress and pound loadings from installed height to coil bind.
All our springs are chrome silicon
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It all worked well and would not be hard to make something similar to suit different motors. Hope this help somebody and if not it will give some people ideas.
Now I can rev the ring out of it and make it go like it was supposed too
Cheers Paul.
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Now its time to have a crack at the real motor.
Remove rocker cover etc.
Remove chain tensioner
Before removing cam gears take note of cam timing. Because I'm getting old i find it easy to take a quick photo of things before I pull them apart so if I'm not sure I can go back and check.
Stuff a rag down between the timing chain just in case you drop a washer or one of the dowls.
Then remove the cams. Remove the cam followers but be careful to keep them in order and don't loose the shims.
This is where I had my only problem. Working on a motor on a stand is not the same as a motor in a car. I had to modify the tool slightly as it did not clear the strut towers
Away we go. BTW. (I rapt tape around the pipe to protect the cam bearings)
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Your work is awesome mate, ive been a welder/engineer for years, and i understand the thought you have put into what you do. Very nice work. And you must have one sweet workshop. Keep it up! Thanks, Luke.
Thanks Luke, Hope you didn't get washed away in the floods. Cheers Paul.
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Time for an update
During the engine rebuild, I couldn't find any reasonably priced double valve springs. This led me to the decision to fit the standard ones and limit my revs till i could find and fit new ones. Over Christmas I found them on Ebay and purchased a set. Now the delemer........... how to fit them without removing the head. I decided to experiment with a spare head and spare motor that I had lying around.
The final product worked well so I thought I would share my findings in case someone else is in the same situation or you want to replace your valve guide seals.
First I needed something that would fit over the valve spring but still fit into the head recess. I used a whole saw and cut it to suit.
Next I continued by working out a way of compressing the spring using leverage. I made a pivot using a piece of pipe that locates under the opposite side cam saddle
Then it was just a matter of making up a lever to put downward pressure on the spring.
Then the first trial,
All worked well.
Now to keep the valve shut so it doesn't fall into the combustion chamber when the retainer is removed.
Get an old spark plug and remove the guts by grinding the lip off.
Then weld a fitting to it
And make up a tool as shown in the next pic. It has an airline fitting on the end to allow it to be connected to your compressor.
And then you screw it into the spark plug hole in your cylinder head.
Connect your airline and the air pressure from your compressor, (approx 120 psi) acting on the bottom of the valve keep the valve shut. As an added safe guard, put your piston at TDC but remember to stick the car in top gear with the handbrake on or the pressure will turn the motor over.
More Soon................
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Nice work there paul. I like the panhard rod idea, might have to talk to you about it when the time comes with mine.
Is the beast back on the road / track yet ???
Na mate, been too flat out at work. I am hopeing to get some time over Christmas. I'm going to get onto the flares next week then I can put some paint on it.
Have changed the dash and wiring since the last post but thats about it.
And I got me a trick number plate for the back
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Hi mate, looks like a sweet ride to start with.
I think you can't go past a 2TG. Easy conversion, no major changes, (fuel system,computer etc) and period correct.
Good luck with whatever you decide. Cheers Paul.
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He plated inside the boot, I'm guessing it's not the actual bolt strength cuzzo was questioning, but the floorpan.
No worries mate. I made pretty sure the plating I did on the floor was adequate. It also holds the mount for the sway bar link. Most of the load is lateral anyway.
Cheers Paul.
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yeah i woudlnt be worried about those bolts! they will tow the titanic (well maybe not off the bottom of the ocean...)
that is some sweet engineering there mate, love it very much!
i wouldnt call it a "budget" panhard rod. cheap yes, but not cheap on quality!
just one Q what was the reasoning on drilling a hole in the galv pipe before welding on the nut? (for the rod itself)
thanks Dave..................... The reason for the hole is to let you get a good weld on the allthread. The rose joint is female. the adjustment is made by screwing the joint on or off and then do up the locknut. The threaded bar is welded to the gal pipe, through the hole, and the nut is also welded to the pipe as a backup. Most of the strength is in the weld in the hole.
Hope this clears it up for you
Cheers Paul
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Are those bolt in the floor strong enough?
I'm worried it might rip out.
Not a problem mate. It has 5 X 10mm umbraco bolts and 5mm steel plate on the inside. You could lift a car with 3 of these bolts. Cheers Paul.
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Hi guys, time for an update.
not much has been happening lately but I decided to do somthing about the wondering rear axel. As those of you that race would know. leaf spring rear ends tend to wonder from side to side under hard cornering. This is made so much worse with a set of sticky race tyres. This makes the car very unpredictable and can snap from understeer to oversteer in an instant. To help overcome this I have made a BUDGET panhard rod.
All you need is
1 a brain
2 a pair of 16mm rose joints. $15 ea.
3 a length of 16mm allthread
4 1 mt 21mm gal pipe $6.00
4 8 16mm nuts
5 some scraps of 5mm plate
6 100mm of 50X75X6mm angle
7 an arc welder and drill
All up about $50 and 4 hr time.
As you will see in the first pic, I used a transmission suport bracket to save time but this is only because I was being lazy. You will also notice the brackets for the adjustable sway bar but that is for another day.
Then I made a plate to attach the rod to the bracket
And bolted it on
This was all bolted securely to the boot floor with a plate inside the boot. That is the boby mount side done.
Now time for the axel end. With this I diden't want to weld to the asel housing because I am in the process of building a nissan R31 diff conversion, and this way I can change the diff without making new mounts.
With the angle iron, Icut it to fit onto the lowering block. Drilled two holes for the U bolts and for the rose joint mounting bolt.
Then positioned it on the lowering block.
And welded it on.
Then bolted it into position.
Now to make the rod. Its just a matter of welding the allthread to your gal pipe. By drilling a hole in the pipe you can get a good weld on the thread.
Now fit and adjust your rod.
Thats the basics, If anyone wants any more details just yell out.
I will show the adjustable swaybar setup when i finnish it.
Cheers all.
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V6 TOYOTA COROLLA
HUGE AMOUNT OF CUSTOM MODS TO MAKE THIS A TUFF LITTLE CAR
V6 VP HOLDEN ENGINE AND TRANS FITTED
VERY RARE GENUINE 4 STUD 15INCH CENTRELINES
R31 SKYLINE DIFF SHORTENED WITH DISKBRAKE AND 4.11 GEARS AND BILLETT AXLES
UPGRADED FRONT DISKBRAKES WITH B&M LINE LOCKER INSTALLED FOR SWITCHED DE-ACTIVATED REAR BRAKES
CUSTOM EXTRACTORS WITH FULL SPORTS SYSTEM
BATTERY IN BOOT, SURGE TANK WITH HIGH PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM
NISSAN RADIATOR WITH DUEL THERMO FANS
DVD, TV, PS2, INVERTER, VDO SPEEDO, SPECO TACHO, B&M SHIFTER
NEW FRONT RACE SEATS AND NEW REAR SEAT COVERS
NEW INTERIOR CARPET, DOOR TRIMS AND BILLET ACCESORIES
CENTRAL LOCKING WITH PUSH BUTTON START ALARM
HAVE PROBABLY FORGOTTEN SOMETHING....
VERY FAST CAR, HAS GOT ME IN PLENTY OF TROUBLE.
Needs a wash and vacuum, is still dirty from Gazzanats.
Any enquiries regarding sale (not allowed to say swap but will), contact me on 0403300414
I like dirt bikes and also need a dirt bike trailer...hint hint
THIS CAR IS NOT ENGINEERED
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/V6-Toyota-Corolla-D...0956?pt=AU_Cars
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just had a good read through this thread!
i bet that car is fun to drive even with the 3tc, gonna be even better with that new power plant.
as for fibreglass. i did a bit of figbreglassing a few years back (mainly speaker/subwoofer enclosures).
the best place to get fibreglass from is boat shops. can usually get 4L of the stuff (including hardener) for about 80 bucks.
I'm unsure how you make flares though...as when i did mine, it turned out quite rough (just the bare cross cut glass fibres). but those flares appear to have a gell coat (or maybe its just paint...) on them. but it was ok for me as i just covered it in carpet..
the way i applied the fibre glass was pretty...er...agricultural...
i applied masking tape to the areas that i was trying to mould (but didnt want the glass to stick too). there may be a better medium to use here, but masking tape worked fairly well, and it was cheap. and it doesnt get eaten by the resin.
then i cut up my glass fibres into usable peices (200x100mm perhaps), you might be able to use glass matting, but i think thats fairly expensive compared to the cross hatch style (ramdomly placed) glass fibres.
i then mixed up a small batch of the resin (around 250mm, i used a cup from my mothers kitchen...:fuzz:). read the instructions on the bottle as to how much hardener you have to put in, too little and it will never go off, to much and it will be going off infront of your eyes. The right amount and you have about 10mins before it starts setting, and overnight before its completley cured.
then i used a peice of boad, layed down my glass fibre mat, and poured enough resin on (or use a really cheap paint brush to "paint" the resin on" untll the matt is completly saturated). you may find that at this stage the resin is starting to break down the glass, so you have to move quickly to pick up the glass matt and apply it to where ever you want to put it.
the chemical reaction is an exothermic one, so if you can feel the glass getting hot...hurry up!!!
in your case it may be easier to put the glass matting onto the moulds, and then apply the resin (making sure the glass fibres are soaked with resin, with formentioned cheap paint brush), but in my case i was applying the glass in awquad places (boot of a car), so needed to apply the resin outside and then transport the glass into the car (messy...!!)
make sure you use gloves! i didnt...and i was itchy for days.
in your case maybe do two or three layers of glass, if you have the time, maybe wait for a layer to dry before applying the next, so you can see how strong it is.
then i guess to get a good finish, trim off the edges, start sanding and apply some paint!
hope this helps hey.
with my experience, with fibreglass you can't really go wrong. especially for cosmetic stuff like this. I'm sure the method would be more important for loadbearing fibreglass, but i say have a crack at fibreglassing something else small first ,just to get a feel of how much time you have to use the fibreglass etc.
thanks Dave 4 your input. Sounds ezy but from experience things that sound ezy usually arnt. I have a hillclimb at Haunted hills this Sunday so wont have time 2 get into it this weekend, but will have a crack next. Cheers man. Paul
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Hi all.
Its been a while but its time to get back into the old girl again.
I have been flat out working on a new movie set, (called THE CUP) but now filming has finneshed so I have time.
I need help again. This time more info than help. I need to know how to do fiberglass. I have some molds for flares because my new wheels are wider. I have never dicked around with fiberglass. Maybe someone might know a web site that explains the steps for a beginner?????
Thanks Guys.
Paul.
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Sick of w8n for you Llastright (looser) If you are not interested then don't bulls**t on like you are.
Car is no longer for sale. :abuse:
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Why would you buy a Holden or Ford.when you could have a BMW?.......................Well maybe a Holden but deffinetly not a ford. Very reliable and quick.
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sorry champ nets been down still very interested in thiswill put a deposit into your account in the next few days with rest to be paid cash on pick up
OK mate, let me know when you have put the money in. Cheers Paul.
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live in sa so was gonna fly ova and grab it been looking for a vh for a while I'm pretty shour all i need when i get it back here is to show that the engine number is the original plz say it is lol then i just new plates sent to me
Mate whats the go??? Do you want the car or not?
Dale'S Ke20 Rebuild
in Rollaclub Rides
Posted
Hi mate, good luck with the rebuild. Looks like you have a good base to start with. I hope the build go's quicker than mine has. I got so depressed not raceing I went out and got an AE82 shitter to race until my KE20 is back on the road. What club do you belong too and where do you race? Cheers Paul.