slapper
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Posts posted by slapper
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yes, straight cut is stronger.
YES, straight cut is noisier (holy crap noisier) - half the noise you hear in the group A in-car cameras is the gearbox.
yes, they demmand more proficiency from the driver - you need to get it all the way into gear, or don't bother. Helical gears tend to "pull themselves together" when partially meshed ... straight cut gears will just tear the ends off the teeth.
Daily driver, street ... other people sometimes drive your car - helical.
If you want to be able to listen to the radio - helical :evil:
What are you putting the transmission behind that strength is a consideration?
cheers,
Slapper
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okay. I wanted to replae the leaf spring sandwich bushes in the KE25 with polyurethane, but nobody does them any more.
I'm thinking about making some of my own, but it's going to cost about $100 to tool up and then the 90 durometer (about the same as nolathane in hardness) urethane can only be bought in 1.5 kg tins ... another $90
Now, I'd like to replace these bushes, but I don't $200 like the idea.
Here's the thing ... if I make these, and they turn out well, would anybody else be interested in buying these bushes off me for probably about $50 or $60 a set? This would be all four needed to sandwich the leaves left and right on the diff.
I've found someone who'll go halves in the setup costs (pinky silicon, release agent etc), I just need to justify the $90 worth of urethane I'd have to buy now!
I'm not lookiong for a definite commitment from people, but a serious indication of interest if the bushes turn out well (there's always a chance this won't work at all and I'll have blown my money well and truly in that situation!).
somebody?
anybody?
cheers,
Slapper
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i have TRD springs waiting to go in which are of the highest quality but at the end of the day i can't ring up TRD and say 'can you make them another 2cm lower please...'
indeed, you can't ... but cutting them isn't the right idea either.
If you wanted these shocks shorter, you'd go to a spring maker and have them reset.
That way the spring rate stays the same, the top and bottom coil shapes stay the same ... it just ends up shorter.
There's not much point payng the dosh to get "good-quality" springs only to make them not much better than a u-pull-it job that's been chopped.
There is only ever one reason for chopping springs: it can be done for "free".
It is never a better solution:
- performance-wise
- safety-wise
- looks-wise
Actually, I wish I'd said that earlier :) ... in fact I agree with myself so much that I'll say it again, with added emphasis.
There is only ever one reason for chopping springs: it can be done for "free".
I feel better already :D
Don't get me wrong ... I've run cut springs before ... and have them in my AE71 at the moment.
... as a temporary measure ...
Based on how they behave, I now know what spring rate and unloaded length I want for the AE71 and I can go to Industrial Spring Makers and either get them to make me some to spec, or check how close their off-the-shelf items are.
cheers,
Slapper
- performance-wise
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so ... to summarise (and maybe dispel a few misconceptions) ... without making any judgement calls about whether cutting springs is a good idea or not ...
cut springs exhibit two specific problems:
- the cutting activity can affect the structure of the metal the spring was made from, resulting in brittle behaviour that can lead to unexpected failure (snapping) of the spring. This can have catastrophic results for the vehicle depending on where/how it's being driven. This risk can be alleviated for the home-mechanic by minimising the heat build-up in the cutting process (make it quick) and allowing the metal to spring to cool slowly (don't quench). Don't even bother trying a hack-saw, work hardening of the spring material will probably kill the saw before you get anywhere :)
- you need to cut one end or the other of the spring, thereby removing the nice flat coils at that end that help locate the spring. This will exacerbate any spring locating problems as you approach the extension limit of your dampers
cutting springs makes them shorter and stiffer ... producing other problems that are shared with installing any shorter and/or stiffer spring - including factory and/or after-market.
- Shorter springs may no longer be captive, or may not have the same spring pressure keeping them captive at suspension full droop. Having springs fall out of their carriers is always a bad thing. There are several potential remedies - short stroke shocks, clamping the springs to the top and bottom carriers and restricting the extension of the shock with webbing attached between the top and bottom seats.
- stiffer springs may require uprated damping to alleviate problems with oscillation. Under-damped springs will tend to bounce.
Some posters have extended the conversation to include handling ... in a drastically simplified nutshell:
- stiffening the front springs will tend to induce understeer
- stiffening the rear springs will tend to induce oversteer
stiffer swaybars try to reduce roll by making the car squat as it turns ...
- stiffening the front swaybar will tend to induce understeer
- stiffening the rear swaybar will tend to induce oversteer
stiff swaybars and soft springs are better suited to smooth environments, where both sides of the vehicle are traversing an essentially flat surface.
stiff springs and soft swaybars are better suited to bumpy environments, where you need one side of the vehicle to traverse bumps without affecting the other side too much.
The evil of cut springs is purely and simply in the fact that it's hard to predict how the metal itself will react to the cutting, coupled with the removal of the flattened coil at the cut end. All the other problems people have talked about are not specific to cut springs ... they are a legacy of replacing a spring with another one that is horter and/or stiffer.
cheers,
Slapper
- the cutting activity can affect the structure of the metal the spring was made from, resulting in brittle behaviour that can lead to unexpected failure (snapping) of the spring. This can have catastrophic results for the vehicle depending on where/how it's being driven. This risk can be alleviated for the home-mechanic by minimising the heat build-up in the cutting process (make it quick) and allowing the metal to spring to cool slowly (don't quench). Don't even bother trying a hack-saw, work hardening of the spring material will probably kill the saw before you get anywhere :)
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thanks ... now I'll make sure I get a replacement bush on hand before I pull the rack out.
I like to get these things done in one day, so I have no excuse not to drive to work on Monday ;)
cheers,
Slapper
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Exactly the same symptoms when you ran without a fuel cap?
Check that your fuel pump and filter are groovy:
Run a bit of fuel hose from the fuel filter inlet to a jerry can.
Run the fuel pump outlet back to the jerry can - crank the engine.
check to see if fuel comes out the fuel pump outlet (back into the jerry can).
If that passes, connect the fuel pump back up to the carby and see if that works.
If it runs - the problem is in the fuel lines between fuel filter and tank and/or evap lines between tank and charcoal.
If it doesn't run, then there's a problem between the filter and the engine (including, maybe, the carby).
enjoy,
Slapper
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AE71 - I have a knock in my steering rack.
inner and outer tie-rod ends have been replaced, as well as rack ends.
Does anyone know whether the steering rack has internal bushes or not? I can't seem to get a straight answer via my (usually successful) searches.
cheers,
Slapper
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now i'll be left with a mechanically sound 4K and 4spd box
if the 4 speed you're talking about and the one in the 20 don't match (different shifter position etc) no reason why you shouldn't put the 4K into the 20 with the 4 speed that's already in there.
Unless you currently have an auto in the 20, I don't see a problem - even then, you might be lucky and everything fits with the K40.
Things to watch out for are:
- number of splines on the gearbox output shaft must match the tailshaft
- shifter positions can be different due to different transmission extension housings
- if you try to mix and match tailshafts, check that the diff mounting flage is correct
The 4K in my KE25 sits in front of a K40 that was originally strapped to the previous 3K motor.
good luck!
Slapper
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i eventually pulled of the fuel hose just be for the pump and it made a kind of sucking noise
sounds like the fuel tank isn't sucking air in when the fuel pump tries to suck fuel out of it ...
you probably have a blockage in the line that goes from the fuel tank, all the way to the front, to the charcoal canister.
Try removing the fuel cap - this will allow air in via the filler. If it runs ok now, then tyhat adds weight to the fuel tank pressurisation theory.
cheers,
Slapper
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It looks like a stash, I have been trying to find what the exact story was. Anyone know?
http://www.snopes.com/photos/automobiles/barnfind.asp
cheers,
Slapper
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I haven't specifically looked into it, but I believe the 4A-F variants all came front wheel drive and didn't have the RWD engine mount holes drilled and tapped in the block.
I have a mate with a 4A-FC in an AE9x and, one of these damn days (read: "when I remember and his car is somewhere near me") I really should check the veracity of this rumour.
cheers,
Slapper
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what they said ...
Take out plugs and put 50ml oil in through the holes, wind over by hand till most of the oil is out then once you have done everything else you can wind it on the starter with no compression then re-install plugs.after you plut the plugs in, disconnect spark lead between coil and distributer ... crank until red oil pressure light goes out ... now you have oil pressure. Reconnect coil lead and try to start the engine - use "Aerostart", "Start Ya Bastard" etc
I wouldn't worry too much about the fuel if the tank is sealed and you don't suspect ingress of water/shit ... just make sure you have a new fuel filter in place.
cheers,
Slapper
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Left-hand thread
Not right-hand
Otherwise the bolt will undo itself while the motors running
nope :P
engine runs clockwise (looking from the font) and the bolt is indeed an ordinary, run-of-the-mill, bog standard, everyone's got one, vanilla, nothing special, middle-of-the-road, pleasing to all, unambiguous, non-perilous, right-tighty, lefty-loosey right-handed thread.
ie. turn it clockwise to tighten, anti-clockwise to loosen.
Handy ... cos splotting a spanner on the bolt head and jamming it against somnething allows you to use the starter motor to crack the bolt open.
Hurrah hurrah - pulley has now been removed, everything has been dropped, cleaned (a bit), new seal installed and shoved back together. Now I have no excuse not to go to work tomorrow :D
a CRC spray every 15 miunutes, heating with a butane torch every now and again (don't know whether that helped or not) ... a cold chisel wedged between the pulley and the oil pump on the left (there's a ridge you can pivot on) and liberal "heavy tapping" of the chisel to see-saw the pulley off slowly but surely did the trick until there was enough room behind the puley to get an ordinary three handed puller onto it. Took me a couple of hours of patient slow-and steady work ... Crikey - goes back together bloody easy though!
cheers,
Slapper
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thanks to all that have responded.
It sounds like perseverence is the order pf the day.
currently soaking with CRC and working away at it.
foc64 - anti-clockwise looking from the front to undo as has been indicated ... same as normal.
cheers,
Slapper
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any bright ideas?
The front oil seal is spewing oil at an alarming rate and needs to be replaced.
Standing between me and DIY progress is the crankshaft timing pulley - which I can not pursuade to seperate from the crank.
hellllp!!
Slapper
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For affecianados of fine music, tastey beverages and convivial company who happen to be in Adelaide this Saturday night ...
Fancy an evening of party rock for your listenin' and dancin' pleasure?
Yes? Read on
No? You need a hobby – how about going to a pub and being entertained by a band or two? (excellent idea)
The Gaslight Tavern
36 Chief Street, BROMPTON
11 August
2 bands ... 8 ‘til late
Don't settle into squaresville man, rap with the hep-cats where the hip-hop does the cool thing daddyo ..
Or something like that - I think that's how you young folk talk nowadays …
Yet another shameless plug for the band I front …
Actually, I think it's the same plug. With some extra words … but, principally, the same plug. Yes.
Now with the added dimension of stuff-ups …
We'll be doing a couple of new songs that we've only added last practice – that's right, you heard correctly … new songs that have only been practiced once.
Actually, that's not strictly true – we did go through them a couple of times at practice … but last Monday night only … no other practice at all .. honest
It'll be great … there's some stop/starts in there that the drummer buggers up every time (it's really funny). It'll be even funnier if he stuffs it up on Saturday. Of course, it won't be funny if I stuff up … just sad really.
– but you'll miss the fun if you're not there!!
It's true … It's happening again … and I'm still up front singing larger than life and (roughly) half as terrifying.
Maybe a third.
The Gaslight were so pleased with our critically acclaimed performance last time that they've asked us back for a reprise gig.
well … when I say they "liked" us …
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punters (inexplicably) kept buying drinks
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they had to put on an extra bartender
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nobody died listening to our music
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we packed up and went home at the end of the night
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punters (naturally) kept buying drinks
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punters (inescapably) kept buying drinks
More party rock abounds at the Gaslight on August 11.
Two musical ensembles will be providing for your listening and dancing pleasure:
Pale: Keyboard/vocals duo (honestly, that keyboard's the size of a frigging aircraft carrier)
Reverb: what can I say? One of Adelaide's premier cover bands, we just rock!
Giants of Science, Beatles, The Beautiful Girls, Jet, GreenDay, U2, Blink182, Robert Palmer, Wild Cherry, Eskimo Joe, The Police ...
What more could you possibly ask for?
Gary Moore, Jimmy Eat World, Icehouse, Robbie Williams, Ashe, INXS, John Cougar, The Dandy Warhols, Maroon 5, Stevie Wright, The BusBoys …
Does it ever end?
Elton John, The Angels ...
look, I think we've had enough now …
The Romantics …
no … shut up now.
WolfMother
No cover charge …
No IQ test …
No time for love.
Sorry, that might actually be a lyric from a song.
The Gaslight Tavern
36 Chief Street, BROMPTON
11 August
Pale are up first.
Reverb starting 9:30, 10 o'clock or so.
Bring your drinking cash
Bring your dancing trousers
Bring your friends
Bring your friends' friends
Bring your Mum
Bring that bloke with the string holding his trousers up who collects bottles out the front on Wednesdays
cheers,
Slapper
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punters (inexplicably) kept buying drinks
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thankee thankee
They're "just around the corner" from me ... so that's an outstanding result :)
chers,
Slapper
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I've had to cut some of the chassis rail out from under the battery tray to address some rust issues (KE25).
Any recommendations about welders in Adelaide?
Preferably in the Prospect area if possible ... although, realistically, I'll go wherever I need to to get it done.
cheers,
Slapper
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The bloke has asked for help ?
that's true - unfortunately, beyond the FAQ and some time spent letting your fingers do the walking around the web, I really don't know where to start with answering the question.
It's impossible to decide where to start with sagvill's post ... unforntunately he(she) hasn't given us any idea where he's at. We don't know whether he has a wealth of engine swap experience, adept at the necesssary engine mount mod's and fuelling shinannigans that go hand in hand with a carby to EFI swap ... or whether he's coming at this with no background at all (both of which are fine). We don't know whether he wants to drive it on the road, rally or tarmac racetrack.
Until we know where he's coming from, we don't know what advice/experience to give. The bit of background I suggested may be enough to kick the conversation off ... unfortunately, the question as put is so widescreen that (I imagine) nobody know's where to start.
A link to the FAQ is at the top of the page (FAQ). Beyond that, sagvill needs to give us a bit of a clue where to start.
The simple fact of the matter is that if those of the group with interesting things to say to help out replied to every one of these "I want to put motor X in car Y, how do I do that?" questions, they'd never have time for anything else! Get yourself past the first "culling criteria" by showing you're serious and not just having a brain fart and you'll find the response level much better :lolcry:
sagvill, don't give up, there are a few people here who should be able to help you wherever your level of experience lies (including members with the specific conversion you are looking at) - you just need to do a little bit more than type the original question to get your "foot in the door".
cheers,
Slapper
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i hav a ke25 4k at the mo bt wnt 2 put 4age 20v, need sum help,
I'll be gentle .. giving you the benefit of the doubt etc.
You've just joined a group with members possessing a vast amount of information that they are willing to share - welcoming newcomers as they arrive.
However.
As in all aspects of life, you need to endear yourself to the group before you start asking for favours. Walking in the door and saying "help me" is not likely to produce the response you'd like. You need to convince those with the information you need that you are not a lazy good-for-nothing bum whose aim is to leech of other people's experience and expertise. In general, people hate laziness.
Do some searching for the information yourself, then come back and ask questions about what you've found (and what you haven't found). Google is your friend.
If you arrive having made some sort of an effort already, you show that you don't just want someone to spoon feed you the instructions without any work on your part. New members who turn up like that are usually given a fair old mouthful and told to piss off until they grow-up and/or can show some reason they should be helped - you'll have to earn the respect of other members.
You'll also find that people tend to frown on "txt-speek". In a newsgroup, you don't need to save characters and it's nice not to have to read someone's post a couple of times to try and work out what they mean. Use full words, use punctuation blah blah. If other members find reading your posts hard, they won't respond.
Welcome ... there's a good chance you're among friends - but you'll need to make sure you aren't pigeon-holed as a "waste of space" before you settle in.
cheers,
Slapper
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curiouser and curiouser (said Alice to the white rabbit).
165 is on the thin side
- fuel efficient? yes ...
- good for tootling about town to get the shopping? yes ...
- light on the steering for little old ladies reverse parking? yes ...
- good if you're into pushing your car a little more than these car's original target audience? no.
get some 185's next time you're tyre shopping - that's a good general purpose size.
aside:
incidentally 165 65 13 is probably on the small (rolling diameter) side too ... speedo will probably be reading high.
I have 185x65x13 on the AE71which works out a tad under the original rolling diameter
The 25 is harder as I swapped a manual box into an auto without changing the diff - keeping the original speedo drive, I think 185x55x13 was the best fit.
From your description, you're just describing characteristicly "ordinary" behaviour.
If you come into a corner too hard, you will understeer - in addition to the lack of steering, the steering wheel will feel light.
As the speed washes off and grip becomes reachievable, the tyres bite and you start steering in the direction they're pointing - the steering gets heavier as the front wheels are now "doing something".
Oversteer may eventuate depending on how hard you accelerate out of the corner, and how much grip you have.
This is fairly standard behaviour - you get rid of the understeer by driving "better" and by modifying your suspension when your skill outstrips it. At this point you start to consider the effect of shocks, tyres, swaybars etc.
The only odd thing about your story is the "two wheels" bit - I'd be seriously looking at whether your observers are giving you correct information here. Get someone to drag out a camera phone and get some footage - because two wheels in the scenarios you're describing means something is
- broken
- geschtinkered
- rotten in the state of Denmark
Now .. last point.
you're not doing this testing on public roads are you?
That's an accident just waiting to happen :) - if you're lucky, you'll understeer into a curb and fsck your front end, injuring nothing but your pride. If you're unlucky, you'l loop it and finish up on the wrong side of the road with a prime-mover bearing down on your now stalled car. If you're really unlucky, you'll injure someone else.
cheers,
Slapper
- fuel efficient? yes ...
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something wacky going on there ...
I can't see how you can have little enough grip at the front to be understeering, yet enough grip to lift the inside wheels.
I'm further confused by your statement that it does both in the wet.
You need to riddle me these questions five please:
Q1: how has the car been lowered (what springs, what shock absorbers) ?
Q2: what happens (how does it feel, what does it do) when your car understeers ?
Q3: when does it understeer ?
Q4: what happens (how does it feel, what does it do) when your car lifts two wheels ?
Q5: when does it lift two wheels?
both (KE25, AE71) my corollas have been lowered and stiffened - ie. shorter and stiffer springs or extra leaf depending on the car.
both have new monroe gas shocks on the front.
the 25 has adjustable shocks set to "pretty firm" on the back.
the AE71 has new monroe gas on the back.
The KE25 has urethane bushes pretty much everywhere, the AE71 is stock in the bush department.
The only time I've had any wheels of the ground is in the 25 at speed over a very steep (and tall) level crossing hump.
both will unload the inside rear on roundabouts (and other hard, tight turns) to the point where it will spin on bitumen (open diff on both).
Neither is particularly full of understeer, but both will understeer in the wet, on dirt, with the boot in.
Both will happily switch to throttle-off oversteer if I back off.
more info please ...
Slapper
PS. I reckon if you're lifting even one wheel in the scenarios you're describing .. there's something seriously wrong with your suspension.
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it's called a spigot bearing.
Maybe just get a new one ... I bought one from CBC Bearings in Adelaide for a 4K a while back - cost me no more than $20 if I recall correctly.
No mucking about - they had a listing for it and all.
cheese,
Slapper
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In addition to other replies:
I get roughly 8 litres per 100 km out of a stock 4K with extractors in a KE25 - both with stock carb and with the weber (32 DIR downdraft).
Are you running overly rich (exhaust pipe too black, sooty tail lights)? If so, make sure your air filter isn't too dirty.
cheers,
Slapper
Straight Cut Vs Heli...
in Automotive Discussion
Posted · Edited by slapper
wow ... I'm going to retract everything I said (except for the bit about the noise) with the statement "apparently I don't know enough to comment" !!
I've just done a little reading on the 'net (and don't have time to do more at the moment) and ...
Apparently, straight and helical cut are available in dog-box or synchro form.
Apparently, straight cut results in no thrust stresses whereas helical does.
Helical is quieter.
Straight may be more efficient due to the lack of thrust forces - no rotational forces are converted to thrust ...
Arguments abound in both directions about which is stronger - apparently, straight seems to allow stronger designs, but these are not necessarily realised.
Straight cut dog-box is the race car choice - faster gearchanges, but more technique required from the driver.
Helical is the usual street choice due purely and simply to the noise.
Here's a cut-and-paste from (2005 post) another web group - it's a nice summary. The poster is from Andrewtech Automotive who specialise in Subaru shite on the US East Coast:
cheers,
Slapper