Kozmo

Thought about the idea, but I am hesitant to run a pod filter in there in case it picks water up of the road. Might do some testing by fixing something like paper towel in there and seeing if it picks up water on a wet day. :dance: One of the first things I did when I got the car :y: . Think I might get my hands on a Toyota 4AGE smallport/redtop manual to get a full understanding of the air induction & idle up system before I go fiddling. :y:

The 4AGE is a high compression engine (10.3:1). High compression + hot day = knocking/pinging. Knocking/pinging = retarded ignition timing. Retarded ignition timing = power loss. On a 30+ degree days I notice a considerable power drop (like having the car loaded up to go on holiday). In an attempt to combat fuel detonation I am already running my car on 95 or 98 octane fuel. Without the use of avgas I can only see one other viable method of trying to overcome fuel detonation - reduction of air intake temperature. On the bottom half of the throttle body, there is a port that runs from one side of the butterfly to the other to give the car more air when cold. This port is controlled by a thermostat. The thermostat operates like a normal car thermostat, it is hooked into the coolant system and opens and closes at a set temperature. This idea doesn't make an awful lot of sense to me though... To the untrained eye it would appear as though Toyota have turned the throttled body and surrounding components into a heat-sink because of it's contact with the vehicles coolant therefore increasing air intake temperature :y: . My idea is to disconnect the throttle body from the cooling system and use a rubber plug to block off the "cold-start air port". I do realise that this will cause idle issues for me on cold day, but I would be happy to use the idle adjustment screw to keep the car going in the cold. I also realise that the engine was designed to run at 2500RPM from cold but that just introduces unnecessary wear IMO + I always let my car warm up before driving. Comments on this idea are very welcome. Especially if you can think of another method of introducing more air on cold start. :jamie:

I will never fit a Ryco to my own vehicle. I have never seen any published information on their filtration capabilities. The best filters I know of are Amsoil "Ea" filters (synthetic media - not paper). :jamie:

Anything's possible... but I think it'll be cheaper & easier to pick up an old 4AGZE and bolt it in.

Vehicle: AE92 SX Engine: 4AGE red top/small port Problem: Mystery vacuum lines Since I have owned my vehicle there are two vacuum lines which have been dangling off of the throttle body. These lines are connected to the throttle body at one end and hanging in free space at the other. I have looked and looked around areas that these lines can physically reach to... but I can't see anything for to hook them up to :lolcry: . Today I was checking the fluids and decided to have another tinker with the vacuum lines. I learned that... Both lines are blocked off by ball bearings. With the blockage/hoses removed a huge amount of air passes through these hoses and consequently makes the engine idle at 3000rpm (cold idle) :lol: . Long story short... can anyone please enlighten me as to the purpose of these to vacuum hoses and where they should be connected :lovin: . The vacuum lines... The vacuum outlets (located under the throttle position sensor)...

Just got someone to cover for me on my Sunday shift at work - count me in. It's about time I got to know some of you guys in person =D.

While we're on this topic... I'm thinking about mods for my 4AGE, and one on the top of my list is water/meth injection. As I'm on my P's I may not be able to legally s/t charge my car... but upping the compression ratio would be one way to squeeze some more power out of the engine. At stock, 10.5:1 compression ratio when I run 91 octane fuel I can tell without a doubt that the ECU drastically retards the timing to stop pinging. I understand that the fuel being used is one of the main determiners of what compression ratio can be used without detonation. Another part of it of course is reducing the temperature of the air "charge" (I'm still talking about N/A). I think I have an idea of the maths required to work out the amount water to be injected (dependent upon RPM). The tricky bit would be working out the flow rate of an injection nozzle and being able to control the amount of flow through a pump accurately. Anyway, long story short - has any one set up a water injection system on a 4AGE, or any other engine for that matter?

Ok, I've decided that if I'm going to buy one new two up the front... I'll do the job properly and get two. I've got two new Sumitomo tyres from the boys at The Tyre Factory + a F&R wheel alignment. Good job I decided to have the wheel alignment too, looking at the data sheet they gave me for the before and after specs... the car was in a bit of a mess (that explains the funny wear patterns I've been seeing on the tyres) :sob: . Took the car for a spin in the wet yesterday, it has heaps more grip now :sob: . Thanks for your input.

I agree, a new pair would be a good idea to make sure they behave the same. The spare is only a couple of years old - the rubber's still good :wink: .

Hi folks, Long story short... I've punctured the sidewall of one of my tyres on the AE92 and need to buy a new one. I have moved the spare tyre to the front of the car. I would like to run the new tyre at the front. This is the tricky part... I want a new tyre with similar characteristics to the "ex-spare" tyre. I'm hoping that someone with more experienced than myself might be able to give me a suggestion in regards to what tyre I should purchase. :y: The "ex-spare" is a Bridgestone RE88. Specs: 185x60x14 I would get another RE88 but they are no longer manufactured, so... my thoughts are to go with a Bridgestone Turanza ER300. If you think you know of a better match, please tell :wink: . Thanks, - Koz

Some how I missed the 2nd page of the add :bash: . Anyway, nice conversion :bash: - might have to go and find me some old 7AFE parts... :D .

*Jumps up and down in seat then drewls* I wasn't planning on doing much to my rolla, but this seems like a nice little package. I like what I see, but am a bit cash-strapped at the moment. I'll be thinking about it over the next few days - week.

I'm saving my $ at the moment and thinking about upgrades... If you're going to tinker with the air intake - don't bother unless you can ensure you're sucking in cool/cold air. More air doesn't mean more power - More cool/dense air does. On the topic of air intake, if you're interested in a serious project - do some research on water injection. I believe the next, most simple upgrade would be hotter cams. I don't have the knowledge to comment on what power gains you receive and what the trade-off is in terms of lower-end torque. I'd advise you try to find some dyno results where people have tinkered with cams, and even better see if you can find someone who has a 4AGE with hot cams who will let you have a spin to see if you like the feel of it (what I'm patiently waiting to do). From what I have read, you can run up to 264° cams before you start loosing considerable power/torque in the lower rev range. Personally, I wouldn't go for a lighter flywheel - it's a good way of making the car run rough when idling with hot cams. Sure, if the flywheel needed to be replaced for whatever reason... I'd consider replacing it with something a smidgen lighter. The 4AGE is already what I'd call a responsive engine, unless it's a track car I'd spend my money elsewhere. Other little things you can do... - Run a thinner fully synthetic oil. (Personally I like to run 10-30 in winter & 10-40 in summer). - Run 95 or higher octane fuel. - Make sure the timing isn't out. - Use a good brake pad. The best pads I know of are EBC's "Green Stuff" - Bendix CT's, Ferodo XL's etc. don't come anywhere near. I haven't done any research into the Bendix Ultimate pads - they might be worth a look. Everything I have heard and read over the last year has lead me to believe that the best upgrades you are going to get for your $ are as follows: - AE92SX/GTI Series 2 Brake Upgrade. - Decent header + cat + muffler + 2" exhaust system. - 264° cams. Final note... I'm not an expert. I'm not a mechanic. I have never done any mods to a 4AGE. I am just a fellow who reads a fair bit... :bash:

Seeing that I've got my P plates now... :bash: :P :wink: :hmm: If you guys and gals don't mind, there's a 85% chance I'll be at Lilydale between 10:00 - 10:15 ready to join the convoy on Sunday (Assuming the meet is still at 9AM). If I am there to tag along, I'll be disappearing just before Dandenong on the way back to the city (up Stud road). Looking forward to meeting yall!

Ok, I sent an email inquiry to the local Toyota dealer. I got a quick friendly, response... but the price tag + the wait of ordering the coil in from overseas scared me away. I did a bit more poking around and found that the Tridon part no. (TIC047) came up a couple of times. The local Repco store didn't have one in stock, so I put in an order for one. The next weekend I went down to pick it up, before handing over the money I open up the box - beautiful, it's got all the right connectors on it :S well, that's made my day. Only thing now... I have a chopped-up plug and HT lead on the car, which totally wrong 8| . Oh well, after a dive into the odds and bods box I found two small female blade connectors... with a bit of heat-shrink to insulate them from one another and some solder + a rubber boot I've got myself a new plug. Here's the magic moment, time to wire it up... lets follow the + and - wires back from the old coil and solder up the new. Better check with the multimeter first just in case... sure enough, the old coil has been connected up the wrong way around :y: . Hope my spark plugs haven't been eaten away... Everything's as it should be now so I'm happy :yes: Thanks for your input everyone :bash: .