GJM85
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Posts posted by GJM85
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I've got 13x6 super lights one the 20 using 175/70, obviously not slicks though. Not till skid 10mm off them that is.
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I've got a Supercharge 480CCA in the ke20. Purchase in September 2011. Only went flat once when the brake switch on the pedal broke and the tail lights were on all weekend.
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I did see someone running a 32/36 on the 4AG at All Jap last year. I think they used an adapter plate on a GZE manifold. Backyard as ʞ©$ɟ. Pure awesome.
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Standard Top Gun 8mm leads have a resistance of 1.5k ohms.
Bosch Super leads are 1.3k ohm. They're about an inch shorter than the top gun leads.
Coil to dizzy leads resistance can be minimised by shortening it. They always seem a tad long.
Lead thickness is increased to suppress radio frequency interference (RFI) between the ignition system and other electrical components like the stereo.
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Wear on the 3k distributor camshaft causes issues with the mechanical advance.
Something to look out for.
The posts on the advance weights get stuck and it doesn't return to initial advance properly. Or it gets stuck when your setting your initial timing and limits your maximum advance.
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New headers fitted this arvo. Hurricanes, $330 fitted. They've changed the thickness of the flange so they don't have those cruddy little half washers tacked on anymore. But the welds on the lower part of the flange interfere with the nuts underneath. But I can't complain about that at all.
Also, I purchased a torque wrench while I waited. About time. Everybody needs one.
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I've never really had issues with heat and the weber. I've machined out the original baker lite plate with them PVC stem and used it between the manifold and the adapter plate.
My main concern is the starter and alternator and burning myself while I'm messing around under the bonnet.
I've found the Exedy HD clutch hold fine with the worked 5k. Has about 60% left after 4 years. I'd say it'll disappear a bit faster now the cam is in as it doesn't pull off the line as easy with using a bit more rpm.
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A clutch like that might be a bit much for the driveline. You could possibly get away with a lite ace flywheel. They've got a 210mm clutch I think. I don't know if they fit inside the k series bell housing and they use a 21 tooth spline.
As for the pipes, mine cracked on the bend of the #4 tube where is was wrapped by itself. The exhaust shop recommended using one of those flexible plate heat shield if I wanted to do anything. They're surprised I got 4 years out of them.
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I thought about going with the ceramic coating and I might go that road if I run into any issues later but for now I'll just see how it goes.
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So it's been almost 2 weeks since doing the swap. It certainly has more ponies with the cam and flywheel.
The gearbox shop didn't assemble the box properly and it was stuck in first gear. I got that sorted out and the rest went quite well.
Earlier this week the manifold gasket started leaking. I don't think I did a great job cleaning the surfaces when I put it back together.
Long story short I pulled the manifolds off to fix it and I decided to take the exhaust wrap off the extractors only to find the #4 tube has a 2" crack. Hooray! I'm booked in on Tuesday for a new set of tubes.
I've been playing with valve clearances. The recommended .014" ex & .012" intake clearances makes it really rattle and I'm not down with that so much. Today I went to .010" ex & .008" intake.
It's surprising how much the valve clearance affects the duration of the cam. That .004" difference takes the intake duration from 276* to 301 degrees, the exhaust duration from 270* to 282 degrees and adds 6 degrees to the valve overlap duration.
I can't imagine there'd be any performance to be gained here but it certainly runs a bit quieter at idle.
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I have to adjust a tie rod tomorrow. While I'm under there I'll get some measurements for you.
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I just finished reworked my 5k yesterday.
.050 over bore, stock crank and rods. Ported head, extractors, Weber dgv, solid lifter conversion lightened flywheel and tighe 154 cam with dizzy to suit.
It's spins to 6500rpm pretty quick but haven't pushed it further yet.
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It's Christmas Day for the ke20.
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I made the journey to Phil's Rotary's/Fast Fours/New Old Car Company at Brendale for the clutch cable today. I walked out with 2 clutch cables, bailey channel and front indicator park lights. I had to restrain myself. I could find myself in a whole world of trouble in that place.
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Clutch cable just snapped going into town to get my wife a birthday card. The ʇ~~ɔ upstairs ʞ©$ɟing hates me.
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So the head won't be done this year. There's not much that can be done about that. But I did get the flywheel and they've done a pretty tidy job of it. 8.5kg down to 6.7kg.
So I'm going to go ahead with the upgrades this weekend. That way the car won't be off the road too long and when the head swap happens next year it can be done in a day.
So cam, lifters, flywheel, gearbox and distributor to be upgraded. And super duper head early next year.
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Crankshaft journal diameters are the same throughout.
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5k block decked 7mm. 3k crank. 5k rods and shallow pistons. 4k head.
I would estimate displacement at 1.4 litres.
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Picked up the gearbox today. Full rebuild with new synchros, bearings and seals. The cluster shaft was apparently shagged so it had to be machined down and fitted with a hardened sleeve. So it should be like a brand new one.
Total cost was $1150
In other news it looks like Yatala Headworx is going to let the team down. After 6 weeks they still haven't managed to recondition and port out the 5k head. I spoke to them today and was told they've got to many big jobs on now to get to it this year. Apparently the flywheel is done though. I guess with summernats coming up the small guy gets shelved.
I'm going in there tomorrow. Who knows what will come of it.
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The road has just been resurfaced.
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Stoned on the way to work this morning. Original glass. I spent 3 hours on the side of the road trying to get a tow truck. In the end I bit the bullet. I pushed the glass and drove it home. What choice was left?
I spent the rest of the day stripping the dash and front interior to clean all the glass. New windscreen to be fitted on Tuesday.
Milling Rocker Posts To Suit Cam Grind
in General Mechanical
Posted
If your running hydraulic lifters then yes, that is how you maintain the correct valve lash.
For solid lifters there should be enough adjustment in the rocker to take up the difference.