GJM85
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Posts posted by GJM85
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Can they still get synchros for it?? Let us know the details and the damage when you get it back.
Apparently they can get synchros. They reckon it'll be done before Christmas.
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Put the 5k head in at Yatala Headworx for some love.
The ke70 5 speed is in at The Gearbox Shop.
Got new temp and oil senders, strut tops, ignition and lock barrels, fuel pressure gauge, windscreen washer kit on their way.
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4kc pushrods are 182mm is there not enough adjustment in the rocker?
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So you've got a 5k with dished pistons and accompanying head. But you converted it to solid lifters and now need pushrods to suit?
Am I correct?
Wait no.
Gutted 5k lifters?
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Because I'm a pirate.
Buy this book.
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My ke20 with 5k has seen $1.60
Effectively the car itself doesn't move at all. The tyres are spinning the earth beneath them making the day go faster.
That's how fast the 20 is.
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My money is on a cactus pump. I went through two pumps in two years and that was enough for me so I went electric.
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I know the 5k carbs are the same size as the 4k carbs. I don't know about the 7k ones.
The fuel jets inside the carb are larger which means more fuel. This is not necessarily a good thing if other areas of the engines performance haven't been addressed.
You best bet is a 4k carb on a 3k.
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New seats for the chariot.
They're direct bolt in with standard rails but nowhere near enough leg room so I made adapters and moved them back 55mm.
They are Autotecnica Adventurer 4x4 seats. Dimensions are almost identical to original seats.
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... little did I know haha. Thank you heaps!
Does that effect performance in any way?
There are a great many variables when it comes to distributors. Condition of the distributor being the biggest. The short answer is not likely.
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You'll likely find a lot of people have done a lot of modification around these parts.
I use a Capacitive Discharge ignition in my corolla. How do you find the ignition?
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Ok ok. Here's the sore spot.
I thought I had a twin carb manifold nailed a month ago on eBay. Came down to the last seconds at 8 am and someone sniped it out from under me at $51. I was willing to go a whole lot further for that manifold. No carbs.
I was ʞ©$ɟing pissed off all day. Just ask my subordinates.
I'll tell you. I am die hard. But I'm dead shit broke. Always will be. Its a family curse.
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My offer still stands. $10!
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I'm actually surprised you ninja'd that right there. I was relying on a mod to take the initiative there and scope that initial post.
If you had any idea you'd wouldn't be asking your customer base how much it's worth. It's actually only worth what someone's willing to pay for it.
I'm not willing to pay for it at all but I'd sure use it on my ke20 if you gave it over. Purely for the nostalgic value.
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What was I thinking? I mean 'oh jolly good ol' chap'.
Worth big dollars. $600 at least! I'd ebay starting bid at least twice that. Sure to fetch a fair price!
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To start with tuning cannot be done with poor or inferior parts. It is impossible and will only lead you to complete and utter failure. FAILURE!!! Follow the destructions before you and your path will become clear.
Key phuck up areas are distributor out of sync and vacuum leaks.
Distributor/ignition:
Make sure all distributor leads are in awesome condition. As well as the rotor bottom and distributor cap. Spark plugs gapped to 0.8mm. All must be awesome. Coil must be good as well as your ballast resistor if you've got one.
Set your awesome condition breaker points gap to 0.45mm with the rubbing block on the high point of the distributor shaft as pictured.
Carburettor/ fuel system:
Again, all in top condition. Fuel filter, pump and carburettor. New fuel lines are awesome, as are carb rebuild kits.
Home brand filters and regular unleaded are not awesome. Don't use either. In the below image you will see 2 screws.
The screw on the base of the 'item' pictured is the idle mixture screw. It's base setting is 2 turns out from seated. Screw it in till is seats softly then back 2 turns out. Unless you've phucked around with the idle jet inside the carburettor this setting will not change.
The screw at the linkage is obviously the idle speed screw. This base setting is 1 & 1/2 turns in from contact with the throttle linkage.
Warm Up:
Get the car running making sure your distributor in correctly. It's easy to be a tooth out or even 180 degrees out if you are not awesome. Much Iinformation for this available.
Get it warm. This is necessary. Turn it off.
Valve clearances:
Too hard to explain here. Much info elsewhere. Make sure to get it right.
http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve_Clearances
Timing/Idle Speed:
Engine running again. Turn the idle speed screw down if needed until the engine is under 1000rpm. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose of the distributor and block it. With a timing light rotate the distributor till you've got it right at 8 degrees on the timing cover. You may need to white paint pen on the notch of the harmonic balancer so you can see that shit. Reconnect that vacuum advance hose.
Check your idle speed and adjust with the corresponding screw. You should have tachometer or your not awesome. Most modern multimeters have tach settings so this may be an option.
Being an automatic transmission your idle speed should be like 850-900 rpm.
Recheck the timing and idle speed.
That will be 150$.
Photos are upside down and will be rotated once money clears.
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Usually only found at exaust shops. Most shops call them extractor gaskets.
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I found a CDI with a bosch points dizzy far more effective than the electronic dizzy without going to the trouble of an ignition recurve.
I use a StreetFire CDI. It cost about $170. I highly recommend it. Oddly enough I have not seen anyone else use one on a k motor.
The MSD 6AL-2 Digital is a programable unit you can use with points. It effectively uses the points as a cranks angle sensor and you can program your advance curve. Dwell time becomes a thing of the past with CDI so you get big spark every time, no hot coils or burned out points adjustable rev limiter, multi spark at low rpm. I recommend the shit out of it.
I've now got 6AL-1 in the shed i was gifted from a mate. Its a bit of old tech and uses a interchangeable chip type rev limiter but it's like new. It's a fair size bigger than the budget streetfire unit but output to the coil is slightly higher. For some reason they still retail around the $300 mark.
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Soon we will be road raging about apples icar being a bendable piece of crap.
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I have one with the internal igniter that I didn't use because it didn't work.
One day I just pulled it down to see what was inside. I cleaned it and lubricated it. Then reassembled it and reset the gap between the pick up and the shaft at 0.5mm. All of a sudden it was all good. Don't know what I did but it works, although I don't use it.
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Holy crap!
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Phuck I love you right now.
Backyard as ʞ©$ɟ!
Gjm85'S Ke20 Build
in Rollaclub Rides
Posted
I've acquired a set of stock struts from a quiet member here. In the process of bringing the front end back up 25mm give or take. The plan is to give me some options in the way of bigger and wider wheels.
New strut tops, KTFL28 King springs, Ford Blue strut legs and hopefully a quality short stroke insert. Any ideas? Do they even exist?
This is the expected difference after the reversion. This is proving to be an expensive 25mm.