Benno

s13 are 350mm the mx83(cressida) arms are 330mm that should narrow your track down. It also eliminates abit of that awkward hub to control arm angle. I had dummy fitted s13 arms to my last ae71 but went with the MX83 arms(with AE71 crossmember). Haven't measured R31 units but they will be shorter as have used silvia arms in r31 for extra track the guards are a good 2-3 inches wider, rims are 16x7 +35.

Been slack, didn't post last week, to busy sourcing and moding bits and peices. S13 Hubs are off the spindels getting copied and made out of 4140 as a five stud, doubt I'll be able to break them. Well at least measuring, drawing and calculating actually payed off so far. During the week I sorted everything at work and after lunch today i decided to dummy fit it all up. I'm now running Import R31 inner tierod ends on the r33 rack to shorten it up(r33~270mm R31=150mm), I'll need spacers turned down out of hex bar to reach the outers(you'll see what i mean later) removed the KE crossmember/rack/suspension/etc then fitted S13 crossmember up then dummied up the suspension using modded silvia struts(no spring, KE70 top, removed spring saddle) and MX83 control arm. then fitted up the wheels and jacked the lower arm to ride hight position to get some measurements Here's the gap I've got to make up, probably just turn down and thread some hexbar I maybe a little biased but i think it looks fat And my little splurge for the week. Picked it up friday night. she had a bit if a knock, but still running. got it bullshit cheap, came with inlet mani/injectors/etc just no turbo/exh mani.

looks like the LF-A put the wind up BMW, better quickly knock up a new M1 to rival it. It now looks a little tougher than the original M1 hommage they revealed in june, at least they ditched the gay wheels

well, we got the motor out on thursday night and away to it's new home, didn't get too much done this weekend but now I've got some room to measure up the crossmembers. first-up bolt spacing both 140mm exactly and between the rails the S13 has both at 765mm E7 has front bolt holes at 775mm and the rear bolt holes at 755mm should be pretty simple to work with, problem to sort out this weekend is the rack. the R33 has a overall length (rodend to rodend) 1300mm standard e7 rack is 1100mm, but I'll be needing somewhere around the 1200mm mark. won't be able to tell exactly until I've got the all the suspension in but i definatly need shorter inner rack ends to suit the r33 rack. and I need to sort out 5 stud hubs for these puppies

Haha, no not quite a SR. The 20v anchor was left in there from the previous owner. a long adaptation of oil pressure switch, sender and temp had snapped the casting/thead into the oil stringer line clean off the block. my mate is going to weld it up and use the 7 rib bottom end for his Bigport project. Just waiting for him to come around and get it, otherwise I will have a silvertop garden gnome by the weekend LOL!

So KE70 pedal block is a bit of a wired choice when I need to run a Hydraulic clutch, but this one was free and I figured with engine bay real estate at a premium, the cable pedal block would be perfect for reverse mounting the clutch master cylinder under the dash. This is the new master/booster all bolted in, removed the corolla's proportioning valve as the Nissan runs one off the master cylinder I've also picked up a SR S13 crossmember, R33 steering rack and steering column which I'll try getting into the car. Crossmember measures up remarkably close. also got some spare seat rails to disassemble and make up for some descent bucket seat. But first I've got to wait till my mate takes this lump of crap out of the front of it.

Yeah, was a pretty good deal. Had some spare time today so thought id put the pedal block in start sorting brakes. I have a full set of R33 GTST brakes(four pot fronts, two pot rears and master cyl/booster) so while is was putting the pedal block in I measured up the booster bolt patterns. KE70 booster R33 booster Exactly the same, only difference is 10mm in the push rod length, lucky the R33 booster has enough adjustment So, the car didn't come with a pedal block so i got hold of a KE70 cable clutch block To Be Continued...

Basically I sold my pride and joy last year and bought a house(LINK to build-up). Now I've got the bug to build another one. I put up a WTB add on here where redae71 quickly put me in touch with one of his mates who was selling a shell. Got a early KE70 with a silver-top sitting in it for $600(bargain), palmed off the 20V to a mate, now I'm left with a rough but Straight/Rust free shell, perfect canvas to work my magic on. I'm a Bit of a fly-by-the-seat-of-pants type, but to start with the plan is: SR20DE SR/RB box S13 front coil-overs R33 Brakes all round F-series Diff Body braced and lightened as much as possible This is how it looks right now. Only just stripped the insides out today. Want to get peoples opinion on the whole ae86 kit thing. got a standard rear bar to replace it, but I'm kind of curious to see what it would looks like.

the weight isn't bad, and sitting low helps, maybe not as much in a SR20DE but a SR20DET you can notice the difference between that and a 4A-GE. My pick is still definitely with the Nissan. Thanks for the weights too champ. they should come in handy.

Using a bit of educated deduction, you have a few gearbox options: you're engine being a 1MZ-FE, basically a all alloy version of the 3vz-fe(same bellhousing pattern AFAIK) same family had the 5VZ-FE(prado) which i think took a R15# 4WD gearbox, so theoretically a prado bellhousing on a supra/soarer R154 rwd box is one option. Or 1MZ shares bellhousing pattern with 1/2AZ-FE, the AZ is the successor to the S motor(and also has the same patter), now early 1/2S came as RWD but the bellhousings weren't the same(different input shaft lengths or something). but late 3S-GE beam ran a getrag based J160 which should work as well as any W57/58 with a 3S bellhousing/adaptor(aftermarket but a common swap, should be available) If anybody has tried and can confirm or disprove let us know. save other people making mistakes

4A-GE is easier from a fitting point of view. ae71 gear allows it to bolt in, but you have to source a t-50 gearbox, and convert the 4a to rwd(unless you want to spend stupid amounts of money on a ae86 half-cut) even a N/A SR20 is between 108-120 kw depending on model, more than most 4A-GE's and the extra torque is unbelievable. the only down side is weight, the SR is only an extra 20-30kg but in a light car like a E7 all over the front axle, you can feel the weight. can't really say which it better, they both have there pros & cons, My pick would be the nissan though. What goes harder? SR20DET hands down, you'll be struggling with a 4A-GZ(/T)E to get that sort of power and the SR's have more aftermarket support so it's easier/cheaper to get more power out of. 1zj is a stupid idea for a street car, dragcar, skidcar maybe but not street. It's only legal in some states in panelvans only.

Last one I did cost me about 2 and a half grand in bit's and peices (that's minus engine/gearbox), and I did everything myself except for the tailshaft($350). standard sr gearbox is a tight fit in a E7(some cutting reqired), RB20 box with SR front casing works a treat. Hardest bit is wiring and setting up EFI(new lines, pumps surge tanks etc). If you're pretty handy you should get away with 4-5 grand, if you need someone to do it for you, budget on 10 grand.

Would love to man, but I've got a patio slab to pour and a bucks night on saturday. Realisticly, I probably won't get my new project on the road till early next year, that's too far away so I'll have to come along to a few cruises before that. I'll probably be in Mrbigports E7 if I go so keep an eye out for us

some people say that the W56 and w56 are weaker than the w57 and w58, I've never seen any physical evidence of this. the main difference is the first three gears. In austrailia the w55/56 is primarily a commercial box(in hilux) and has shorter gears in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Basically the W57/58's are a closer ratio box than the w55/56. physical differences are shifter positioning, though that's more depending on what vehicle the gearbox came from.

Hey all, My name's Benno. I'm a Mechanic of nearly 10years (mostly Toyota/Lexus) and I've just picked up my next xE7# project(I think I have a problem), I also have a stock ZZE122 as a daily. My last two E7's have been seen on Teddy's Keto site and 'Red Gem' sent me a link to one of my old girls here, so I thought I'd join up to see what's going on In the process of moving the new one from the workshop to my garage sometime this week(so I can work on it in my spare time) For someone who knows first hand how well engineered toyota's are, I should know better but unfortunately I'm not much of a purist. It's nothing more than a rolling shell KE70 slant nose minus front end panels right now and by the time I'm finished the body will be just about the only thing still Tojo. I'll be starting a Tech Log build up as soon as it makes it here. Stay tuned