Benno

woops, meant jzx81, I had chaser in my head for some reason, There is no such thing as a JZA81 anyway....... ignore my last comment. apologies to go baby go

there is no smaller/larger turbo in any toyota twin turbo set up, both turbos are the same size. In the system you are talking about, the bypass valves stop the exhaust gas going through the front turbo, a small passage allows the gas in the 123 exhaust manifold to enter the 456 manifold and spool the back turbo quicker, when the back turbo makes a certain pressure, the front bypass valves are opened and the front turbo spool instantly due to the extra exhaust gas. Edit: I need to L2read hey.

wow, that's awesome man, could you do a "how-to" write up on that? :P you should put the rest of the tincan dash in! Ohh, and it seem nobody in here can speak Japanese. proper romaji for 82 is "hati zyuu-ni"(hachi ju-ni) It shits me the way people improperly itemizes numbers like that. We don't have to copy the retarded nissan squad. when's the rest of the tincan swap coming?

It was a rhetorical question, I can't remember what the measurements are off the top of my head, just implying that if you measure the standard piston area and compare it to the CA piston area, from memory they are identical....meaning there is no need for a larger master cylinder to compensate for a larger piston displacement. If you have no rear brakes, then no wonder you have no pedal feel. Being a conventional inline master cylinder, the secondary piston will move the full length of the the rear chamber(about half the movement of the brake pedal) before it bottoms out and allows the primary circuit to build pressure= shit brake feel. Alot of crap gathers in the end of the secondary chamber after many years of service, my guess is the secondary piston seal is damaged, letting the rear brake circuit leak back into the reservoir. bleeding the brakes only pushes the piston into the crap, making the problem worse. it's actually an age thing....not turbo and N/A brakes, 1988-1990 have the 250mmx18mm rotor and smaller calipers, late 1990-94 have the 280x22mm and larger calipers there is a slight overlap(nissan are the kings of making intermediate models to expend old parts) but SR or CA engine is the quickest way to tell Then again, most silvias are rebirthed and bastard cars so anything goes really

If they are 250x18mm rotors, check the s13 caliper piston size.....compare it to the standard piston size.... You can put a larger master cylinder on if you want, but I'd say you have a underlying problem(air in system, failed master cylinder, leaking rear cylinders, etc)

If they are early CA brakes(250mm rotor), then the standard master cylinder works fine. running a larger master cylinder will give no pedal feel, it will be way too hard. If they are the larger/later/SR brakes(280mm rotors), then get the larger master cylinder. gets a bit spongy without one.

Pajero 15/16 M/C NB-NE Triton 15/16 M/C ME-MF you'll need a Single banjo adapter to replace the pajero double banjo front port you can buy them of get them off a older ford telstar If you're going to use disc brakes all round, use a booster and master cylinder from silvia/skyline. Plenty of different M/C sizes available and alot more compact than the corolla and pajero units

that's the easiest option, I'm in the middle of one now, I just bought a AE93 SX that's been stoved I've decided against swapping the whole looms over, I just spliced the SX cluster loom into the car and fitted the whole SX dash. starting the suspension and brakes this week(you'll gain larger front brakes, rear disc brakes and a front sway bar), will do the motor/box later.....going the give the motor a bit of luvin before it goes in.

Most flywheels are referred by friction face size. 200mm bigport 212mm smallport and 20v(though black top is the same size, it's a fair bit lighter) both of the above run the same ring gear, just the 212's ring gear is recessed behind the face slightly, they are both interchangeable as long as matched clutch/flywheel is kept. ge and gze flywheels are not directly interchangeable, they have different ring gear diameters, which means different starter positions.

use a import ae86 rack and get lines made to fit the ca18 pump. or use the whole silvia crossmember, rack, power steering lines, etc(you'll have to use silvia front suspension and brakes as well.)

there are two different 4a-gze flywheels. are you after overall size or the clutch face size? friction face is 225mm or 230mm. they are interchangeable as long as you have a matched flywheel size and clutch size. don't know what the overall sizes are but neither will fit in a t50/c5# bellhousings if that's what you're after

Thought I'd add a few notes for wiring up CA18s since everybody keeps asking about it the S13 engine loom comes in to parts, the ECCS loom and the start/charge loom. In my way, cut-up the S13 start/charge loom to adapt the E7 loom. For all E7 and I'd assume most other K power rollas would be the same. the start loom from the rolla fits onto the CA18, Main starter B+, starter sig, even oil pressure light and water temp wire will reach the CA18 senders. alternator is now on the drivers side of the vehicle. From the rollas external reg, there is a yellow wire in there that is the ALT check bulb, this need to be extended and run to the CA alt plug pin one ,it should have white with red trace in it. Pin two in the plug is a plain white wire and should be spliced to a constant B+. In my case, I ran a boot mounted battery, so I simply made wire from the alt pole to pin two in the alt plug, a 4 gage lead from the alt pole to the starter b+, then a 0 gage to my isolator and back onto the battery. the CA alternator should also be properly earthed, I ran a separate earth wire for it. CA charge diagram with that done, the only problem now is the S13 start/charge loom also contains part of the knock feed back to the ECCS loom. I made a new knock wire out of thin coaxial and just earthed one end of the outer sheath for shielding. Knk wire is a white wire, easy to find because is has a black shielding wire around it with a grey cover and is twice the size of the other wires. ECCS loom is pretty straight forward, engine attached at one end, ECU at the other. most of the powering up of the ecu can be done through the F8 and F10 plugs(two plug that are on the end of the airflow meter branch). I just made up a bank of three relays behind the Left headlight, Ignition, ECCS and F/Pump and made up a loom as below. the Ign switched B+ and start signal I ran straight from the ignition switch loom, under the dash and patched into the CA loom(you'll see the ca loom has a spare plug just up from the ecu that has these two wires.

start the car up and let it idle. grab a multimeter and set it to dc voltage in a 1-10volt scale, put the red lead on to the B+ terminal of the alternator and the black lead onto the positive terminal of the battery. this will tell you voltage drop in the B+ charge wire. a good charge loom should loose no power(ie. less than .1 of a volt). This way is much more accurate way then measuring static resistance in a line because it takes into account the current load on the circuit ie. a length of 18gage wire measured will have negligible resistance, but if you try putting 15 amps through it, you will get a voltage drop that could give problems you won't pick up by checking resistance.

this actually increases the problem. Ke70Dave has got it right. Reasoning: Releasing the clutch in neutral spins the input and lay shaft(or the primary shaft on FWD's). the reverse idler moves into mesh between the lay shaft and the output shaft(or primary and secondary on fwd's), if the lay or primary shaft is still spinning(due to a recently released clutch or dragging clutch)then the reverse idler will crunch when engaged. Clutching in then shifting to first uses the syncro to stop engage first gear which stops the lay or primary shaft from spinning, stopping the crunch when you then go for reverse. if the reverse idler still crunches after this procedure, then the clutch is usually dragging(not releasing correctly) also most gearboxes produced after 1995 or there abouts, slightly move one or two forward gears when trying to engage reverse. the movement of the forward gears is just enough for the syncro/s to slow the lay or primary shaft....stopping the reverse crunch.

hahaha, had to do a few UZ V8's through work for the same reasons. At least with a 300 it's kind of understandable, low slung front with the intake being where it is, wouldn't be hard to do. An expensive lesson to be learnt none the less.