camerondownunder88 Posted April 25, 2007 Report Posted April 25, 2007 Hi, After spending most of the day cleaning and fixing my carby on the new sprinter one of the carbies (original asian) had been disassembled. So spent all day getting it micky mouse clean as a whistle. Just then tonight about to put the needle and seat in the lid of the carby ice burgs hit. The needle and seat had fallen out and been lost in the 3 boxes of parts I was given with the car. These were a mess all I was able to find after 40yrs of these boxes sitting there was the small spring and that was it for the needle and seat. So all I was missing was the little straight rod that goes in the end of the needle and holds the spring in and touches the float. So I decided to get 2 of my other aisans out from a KE30 and a KE70 to get a needle and seat complete and put it it. can't The needle and seat are all slightly larger and longer in a KE30 and upwards carby. Or just pollution carbies. So I was wondering does anyone have a needle and seat from a KE10 carby or a 3K-B carby I could have. Just pop it in the post as this is the last part holding me up from getting my twin carbies back on the car. Cameron Quote
Felix Posted April 25, 2007 Report Posted April 25, 2007 I'll have a look in the shed tomorrow. An alternative would be to get some brass rod of similar diameter from Voglers, and cut to length. Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted April 25, 2007 Author Report Posted April 25, 2007 Felix that would BE VERY APPRECIATED. Ill owe you if you have some rod. Also thing is I'm missing the original rod out of it so length I'm not sure of..lol But for more info it is out of the second carby not the primary carby. And I call the secondary carby the one that drives cylinder 3,4. Cheers Cameron Quote
Felix Posted April 27, 2007 Report Posted April 27, 2007 (edited) Hey Cameron, sorry didn't get a chance to have a look yesterday. Did have a look this arvy, the only early type needles I found were of the solid type. They all used to leak so I wouldn't wish them on anyone. One thing I did discover however, is that you can screw weber (dgv/dcd) needle and seats into the early carbs with the screw (not bolt head) on the front of the float bowl. They are a bit longer in length, but it looks like you could take up the extra length by adjusting the tang on the floats. Maybe this could be something to look at if you get stuck. I'd recommend new needles and seats. It is not a nice feeling watching fuel running onto your hot extractors. LOL. Also make sure the needle and seats are matched between carbs or you will have tuning issues. My twin aisans must have been off a ke35SR? I had them before I got my ke15 which is a non-SL single carb model. Doug Edited April 27, 2007 by Felix Quote
coln72 Posted April 27, 2007 Report Posted April 27, 2007 (edited) or toss the KE1? carbies and bold on the KE3? type like I did. Also gives bigger secondary venturies :jamie: May have to mix and match linkages though from memory early ones connect top the carby via ball and socket conections and later ones don't :wub: Edited April 27, 2007 by coln72 Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted April 28, 2007 Author Report Posted April 28, 2007 Hi, A few days ago now (been to busy to post this update) I ended up going for a hunt for a ke15 3k-b carby new needle and seat. Well first I went to Supercheap near me first and bad news :yes: they can't get any in and they didn't have any in store. So I decided to go to walkers1 on the other side of town as they usually stock rare stuff and if they don't have it no one would. So I tripped there and was in luck they had 1 left :) but it was well forgotten as it took 2 guys 15min just to find it. And this is it below: As you can see it was well forgotten in there shop. Then below is a picture of the seat next to a ke30 and newer Asian carby seat. This will just show the size difference. One good thing about this needle and seat but is the internal diameter of the seat hole where the needle sits is larger than stock so you can fit a newer KE3X and upwards Asian carby needle to it and don't have to get a special early K-B needle. But after putting this new seat and needle in to the carby I found a problem :( The seat bolted in fine no problems. I then put in the needle valve that came with this new unit, then I proceeded to put in the float and the needle is to long :( This caused the float to be sitting in the low fuel position and the valve to be shut. Picture below: This pic shows the new needle is sitting WAY to high as it is a solid needle so the float will be all wrong. So I tried bending the tab to fix this problem, no luck :( The low limit float stopper tabs and the tab that pushes on the needle didn't have enough bend in them to work right. So I decided to try and use a needle from another carby I had with a spring in it. I figured these were a bit longer for the KE3X and newer carbies but the spring in it might compress more taking up that length difference. Well it did :sob: So in short if you buy a new needle and seat for a KE15 sprinter. The part the shop will give you will be correct but the modern needle is to long and a spring loaded newer type will need to be installed. As the new solid one they will give you will be to long. I am now yet to try this carby needle arrangement with fuel pressure but fingers crossed it wont leak. But I am just curious as to if my needle leaks how can I tell and where will i see excess fuel coming from? Also by having say different needle and seat's in my twin carbies how could this cause tuning issues? And one more note I measured the original needle that was sitting in the no pulled apart carby I got in the parts box with the car and compared it to a new needle I bough that should be a direct replacement which isn't. The picture of that is below. Cheers Cameron Quote
Felix Posted April 29, 2007 Report Posted April 29, 2007 Also by having say different needle and seat's in my twin carbies how could this cause tuning issues? Well the float levels affect the mixture throughout the entire operating range of the carbs. If your needle and seats are different it makes it harder to match the float levels between the front and rear carbs. A spring loaded needle will flow differently to what a solid needle will. Just think of the whole concept of carb balancing. If your float levels are to high you will see fuel spitting from the auxillary venturis at idle. Quote
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