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Posted

I've still got a 3-3/4" tacho that I haven't installed (along with RX7 calipers, 7M-GTE injectors, etc). And I'll soon be scoring a HKS tacho, boost gauge, and oil temp gauge for about $150. They're the type that look black when the ignition's off, but the numbers and everything appears when you turn the car on.

 

And Shane, you're right, the ABV mod won't give 15psi straight up. All the larger crank pulley does is make the supercharger spin faster relative to the crank speed. So instead of your supercharger running at 1.2 times engine speed (mine runs at 1.25 times engine speed), it'll run at 1.4 times engine speed (I assume you're getting a Nevo-style 175mm pulley). This means that at 7,500rpm (your redline), instead of running the supercharger at 8,700rpm, it'll be running at 10,500rpm. Also, your maximum boost is actually achieved at 4,000rpm, and is limited to 8psi from that point onwards (by the ABV). So when your supercharger is doing 4,640rpm, you start making 8psi. Therefore at 10,500rpm, you could theoretically be making up to 18psi, but due to the boost loss due to supercharger inefficiency at that speed (due to heat), you'll only be making 15psi.

 

For me to make 15psi, I'll keep the same pulleys (with the ABV mod), but run the engine at up to 9,000rpm. With my standard pulleys, the supercharger is spinning at 1.25 times engine speed, so I'll achieve supercharger speeds of up to 11,250rpm. I may look into lightweight standard AW11 diameter pulleys to reduce that supercharger speed a bit, or just limit my engine rpm to about 8,500rpm, as 11,250rpm on the S/C isn't really that good or worthwhile.

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Posted

And for a water-to-air intercooler, keep a lookout on the Toyota sites for a Celica GT4 intercooler. One model (either a limited edition ST165 or ST185) came with a water-to-air intercooler standard, and it's meant to be a pretty good unit. Or get yourself a water-to-air intercooler from a Subaru Liberty/Legacy RS. These are also quite popular. I've seen them second hand for about $300-400. You can save a lot of money over a new unit (like the PWR ones). Or if you want a guarantee and a new item, I'd definitely go for a PWR unit, as they're meant to be EXCELLENT.

 

W2A_6546_edited.jpg

AW11 MR2 with 4A-GTE & PWR W2A intercooler.

Posted

BTW, I'm also looking at Web Cams now. They've got a set of cams with a fair bit longer duration (about 20-degrees) and more lift than the Crower cams. Toda also do a set with even longer duration and higher lift, but I think they're a fair bit more expensive from memory.

Posted

I have sourced the Crower cams for US$395 (AUS$495) for the pair, which is a bargain. The Web Cams are more expensive at US$575 (AUS$720) direct from the manufacturer. Wade Camshafts (an Australian company) also do a set of cams that have me interested, but I don't know how much they charge for them. Kent Cams in NZ have a set of turbo cams (for all out drag racing apparently) with 272-degree duration and 10.2mm lift for US$525 (AUS$660). Although the advertised duration on the Kent Cams is less than those of the Crower cams, they have longer duration at 0.050" lift, and more maximum lift, so they're looking pretty good.

Posted

i like the first ones there cheap. what about TRD cams like the ones luke had??

 

I want cams but i know SFA about them like which ones to get ect ect i just want some kick in and giv more power, what do u recomend???

 

 

Car made 10psi of boost on sat night was kool as and that with the abv still conected, sik and i don't hav the 180 speed cut which is good.

 

Gunna do the abv mod this arvo n see how much boost i get next time I'm out at night.

Posted
i like the first ones there cheap. what about TRD cams like the ones luke had??

 

I want cams but i know SFA about them like which ones to get ect ect i just want some kick in and giv more power, what do u recomend???

Car made 10psi of boost on sat night was kool as and that with the abv still conected, sik and i don't hav the 180 speed cut which is good.

 

Gunna do the abv mod this arvo n see how much boost i get next time I'm out at night.

 

I got first dibs on Luke's engine, and checked out the cam specs. They weren't that interesting to be honest. They were long duration, but short-ish lift. they had about the maximum lift that you can sustain with standard valve springs and shims. The ones I'm looking at will all require shim-under buckets, or single piece shim/bucket assemblies (like on a 1SZ-FE or 1ZZ-FE). Higher lift means more air can get in (or out) at a particular point, longer duration means more air can get in (or out)during the intake/exhaust stroke. Longer duration generally indicates higher revs, higher lift is generally better for forced induction. A combination of high lift and long duration is for all out power, high revving bastard applications.

Posted

BTW Shane, you should get the car dyno'd once you've done the ABV mod. I'd be interested in knowing how much power you'll be making. You should well and truly beat my current 87rwkw.

Posted

If you're putting a water spray on it I would think the intercooler would be fine. I know people have upped the boost while maintaining the standard intercooler, however that always seems to be in colder climates, but the water spray should make the difference up here.

Posted

:D @ 'only'. Man those things would cost about $5,000 depending on how extreme you go. Will you use coilover suspension, or go for something like a Whiteline kit?

Posted

don't put it like that that makes it look exspensive,

 

i got a quote through meridian motorsport who do alot of mr2 racing and they said

 

Shocks: $700 od buks

Springs: $400 ish

Adjustable sway bars 230 ish each

Nutathane or whateva it is bush kit $260

 

and brakes look around $800 for fronts n maybe 300 rear.

 

rear kit is about 400

 

tyres are onli 140 each thou which I'm happy about.

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