5k Dipstick

[kangaroosa]

I'm in the process of installing a 5k into my ke30 sedan. Although i noticed i don't have a dipstick for the 5k - so i was wondering if anyone knew if a 3k or 4k dipstick is interchangable with a 5k motor?

I'm happy to hear any suggestion as to what else would fit.

The 5k is estimated at 140hp with datsun and holden internals, so i don't mind if a dipstick from another model fits, and indicates the right oil level.

[Teddy]

Well because the 5k came out of a van, the end of the dip stick is bent up like an L shape (if that makes any sence) where as the 3k / 4k just had a straight dipstick.

 

I have never compaired the 2, but Xany (simon) from these forums has a 5k in his Ke55 corolla - I'm sure he would be able to give you some know-how on it !

[Xany]

hey......teddy you actually do listen to me ramble on. lol

 

teddy is right with the 5k dipstick having a bend in it.....the reason for the bend is so that you could get to it from the cab in the liteace vans. basically i think you had to pull the seat up/ take engine cover off and there it was.....

 

it was only the other day i was thinking about changing the dipstick in my 5K, because i'm sick of having to try and get the dipstick back around the curve in the shaft. i've got a couple of 4k dipsticks around.....i'll measure them and the difference between the 5K one and i'll get back to ya.

 

btw where are you?

 

would like to hear about your engine too....and whats been done to it

Edited January 8, 2005 by Xany

[Redwarf]

I had to do this on an old 3K of mine(don't ask why). Change the dipstick to a 3/4 K item, drop the oil and while you're at it, change the filter. Measure the exact amount of oil required ( including filter). Turn the engine over. Wait half a stubbie and check where the oil is on dipstick. Use this mark for future reference when putting oil in the car. I remembered where my mark was, but if your forgetful, you can notch the dipstick.

[kangaroosa]

Thanks - I look forward to hearing from you - I have to get the motor in today or tommorow so i can get to work on monday, so if its not too much drama to get back to me soon, i would greatly appreciate that.

The motor is basically-

Standard 5k rods and crank

Hypertec Flat top Pistons from a Gemini

Datsun 1200 push rods

Holden 6 cyl Soild lifters

Solid regrind on the 5k cam

Race port and bigger valves and 3k big port head/ twin valve springs

Re-curved electronic distributor and scorcher coil to suit

Pacemaker Extractors

Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch

lightened standard flywheel

Makeshift LSD diff setup from tayell automotive

12" thermo fam

I'll have more exact figures in a few weeks when i contact the engine builder.

Thanks again and look forward to hearing from you.

[Teddy]

Xany - i think you have some competition - that 5k is crazy :P

 

Kangaroosa - where abouts are you from ? - if you are in brisbane, i want to see this car :thumbsup:

[kangaroosa]

I forgot to add that i'm from the south east melbourne region.

I forgot to mention that the shaft for the dipstick to slide through looks exactly the same as a 3k/4k. The only visual difference i can see from the outside, would be, maybe the depth of the sump - which would effect the reading.

Also if i was to just fill up the engine with the correct amount oil including the oil filter and mark the dipstick that way - How much oil is the correct amount to put into a 5k?

Thanks again

[Redwarf]

Carbies? Cam specs? :thumbsup:

Edited January 8, 2005 by Redwarf

[kangaroosa]

At the moment is a standard straight runnder manifold with a single weber.

I plan to run twin carbs later on. Still deciding on a redline manifold with twin side draft carbs or something else?? Its in limbo at the moment.

 

Cam specs i think are similar to a ford 6cyl spec grind. (at least i heard something like that mentioned)

This is what the engine builder put on the sheet i gave to the ignition place to recurve my distributor.

Cam duration @ .050" lift 229degrees

Cam/Valve Lift: .295 / .442

9.5:1 compression

Capacity: 1544cc

 

Hope thats enough for now. Soon as its all done i'll take some pics for you if you like. The car is lemon yellow tinter (the brightest yellow you can buy off the shelf in acrylic). Its been lower 2 inches at the rear (i had the leaf springs reset and a an extra leaf put in. Front has got lowered springs from the rear of an EB ford Falcon. The springs are exactly the same diameter, but the coils are a heavier or thicker gauge. So they pop straight in and are nice and stiff (once you chop them). Making sure you chop the top off, so the flat base of the coil sits nicely in the spring support on the strut. The top of the spring i attacked with an angle grinder to flaten it off a bit, so it wasnt putting pressure on the tip of the spring. Its sounds dodgy and probably is - but i check it occasionally to make sure nothing is wearing out.

[Redwarf]

Mmmm.... that's a big cam. You may have difficulties realizing it's full potential with that carbie though. Are you going to run it on PULP? You should be able to run it on ULP with 9.5:1 CR. Be interested to see what it's like after a good dyno session.

[Xany]

meh......no competiton with my sc14 bolted to the side of mine.....hehehe....

 

nice engine though should go hard......mines getting more head work done after i start getting some money back into the bank. after that or before.....i'm currently in the process of scorcing a R31 skyline diff, to be shortened....i already have one on hold.......just gotta get around to picking it up.

 

electronic distributor on its way after dyno and tune.