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Diy Engine Dyno


Jason

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  • 9 months later...
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Hi Jason , any updates on how your dyno is coming along ?

 

cheers

 

Have a look at land and sea http://www.land-and-sea.com/eddy-current-d...dynamometer.htm , how hard would it be to make a small eddy current retarder ?

 

 

http://www.cs.wright.edu/people/faculty/sthomas/stand2.html , just remember speed is a issue with heavy moving objects , so on a direct coupled eddy current dyno one is limited to the speed one can turn the retarder.

 

Have to look into high speed bearings , some form of lubrication system and possible a cooling system of some sort ( Heat exchange).

 

Most retarder rotors are cast units ?

 

have a look at the small units land&sea make , they also have a dyno forum you might want to join.

 

Electronics to control the dyno is the major obstacles one has to over come amongst many others

 

will keep a close eye on this thread as I'm always interested i the workings of any dynamometer whether its electrical , hydraulic and mechanical.

 

cheers

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i was pondering how to make my own dyno the other day and then i spot this topic, but I'm not as clued up on elctronics as you guys but am keen to try someting, I'm not too interested in hp figures, more just plotting the curve so i can tune at home, I don't think a water brake is a option, we have a water brake dyno at work for testing jet turbine engines, (there only like 700hp ones) and the cooling tower and reservoir are pretty massive

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  • 6 months later...

hello and greetings from the netherlands europe

been reading the tread and like it sofar the eddy current idea sounds pretty good ive seen a show on discovery a while back about a saltlake speeder actually it was a jetfighter with its wings clipped and wheels put on it

it allso used eddy current as brakes it had big aloy disks and a second plate that didnt turn with verry strong magnets build into it , to brake they moved the plate closer to the aluminium disk mounted to the wheel , this gave them more stoppingpower and allmost no heat or brakefading since nutting actually touched

 

this uses no electricity and i wonder how mush brakingpower it can produce these magnets should be able to hold there power allways and the aluminium isnt ferro metal so it shouldnt become magnetic and spoil the readings over time .

 

I'm investigating a homebuild dyno for use with a smallblock v8 chevy with twin turbo's it will rev to about 5500 rpm and produce hopefully in the regioun of 750 hp and a lot of torq the one I'm looking for needs to be pretty stoud

 

another thing ive been thinking about while reading the subject is using eiter a water jetdrive or a big propeller from a speedboat maibe even one that you can change the pitch on inside a huge colomb of water (swimmingpool ) or just dropped in the river from the side of the road the torq could be read by measuring the amound the engine wants to turn inside the cradle against the force of the screw in the water and maibe the amound the screw wants to push the cradle forwarth

 

i do know that screws have a certan rpm with above they start t cavitate think it was 550 rpm for outboardmotors but I'm not sure

 

so in my case i need to go huge and use a gearreduction to get the rpm down think with 6000 rpm reducted to 500 rpm the torque should be 10 to 12 times multiplied so i would prolly need to use a monster tugboat like screw

 

hmmmm engine in tugboat hook up to big scale tied to the dock start engine give it some welly and if you dare leave the cabin to to read the scale before it pulls the dock away from the shore :D

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