Fuel Gauge/sender

[turbo_rolla]

Hello All, got a slight issue with my ke70's fuel gauge. I did the 4age conversion a while back and a couple of months ago got around to installing an intank lifter setup (flowing to VL external pump). Had to drop the tank to do that, and got it all up and running. Only problem now is that the fuel gauge doesnt work properly.

 

I've done some searches and found some info, but hasnt helped me sort it out. It does work though, kinda - if i take it out, put it back in and check the gauge it'll show the current fuel level - it just wont go down or up after that if i use the petrol/fill up.

 

Pulled the unit out of the tank and had a look, and made sure there's sufficient contact in that little metal box (those who know the unit will know what I'm talking about), and the float is obviously working if its picking up the level when i put it back in, so I'm not sure.

 

Oh, and the same is happening with 2x of the sender units (got a new one to try, but same thing).

 

Any help would be appreciated - not sure if i have to "reset" it when the tank is full (ie take out of currently full tank, then put back in to get the "full" reading on the gauge) or what?) :yes:

[Jason]

Its the old heat element gauge. They suck. Get a new gauge and sender imo around $100 to your door and reliability.

 

Or they float has fouled on the pump.

Edited July 23, 2008 by Jason

[adam-__-]

I think the thing inside the box has TOO much contact that's why it's not moving when you've filled up or used the petrol.

 

With my sender, they would only be in contact when the tank (or leaver thing) was below the half a tank mark. Anything above that wouldn't be touching. So I would have a full tank, the gauge tells me its empty, then when I reach half a tank, it would tell me I've got a half tank till empty. Hope that made sense.

 

What I did was take the sender out and put a staple in beside a spring the sender's got inside that box. It now has contact at full and empty tank. It wasn't as easy as getting any piece of metal and putting in though. A piece too thick will hold it too much and not let the leaver arm move. Maybe you've touched it in the past to make it touch, but when you dropped your tank for the 4AGE conversion, rust as built up and made that contact too tight?

 

 

I know I didn't use any technical words for the things I'm talking about and I'm sorry. I just don't know the names, but I hope what I wrote makes sense. :yes:

[turbo_rolla]

Yeah, that oddly made sense adam! :yes: What i need to do is get it out of the tank again, wire it all up, and move the float manually outside of the tank to see if the gauge goes up inside the car - i tried to do that by myself (a little difficult) and i think the gauge moved, but would be easier with two people :no2:

[Medicine_Man]

They work off resistance, Should be able to put a bride wire between the 2 pins on the sender wire and see the fuel level climb slowly till it says its full. That will show you that the gauge is fine and it is the sender that has issues..

[turbo_rolla]

Ripped the newest sender unit out of the tank and with the help of my lady we tested it out - seemed to move all the way along the range of the gauge as i adjusted it, so it appears the sender unit is working properly, as to is the gauge. So have put it back in with the full tank of fuel, and will see if it starts to go down like it should as i drive it a bit more now. Will update with any results!

[strola]

Just another thign to thing of is that over time the "floats" tend to become "sinkers" make sure that the float still does.. :) (sit come fuel in a metal tin and drop the float in it should ...

 

Cheers