strola

Let me see what I can do... Now help me out here (new to corollas) KE30 two with frames looks like a 4 door, not the coupe with frameless windows. Cheers

I have contacts within glass industry I can have a look at how much newies will be.... What exactly do you require? ;) Cheers

If you use the rag Idea use an old t shirt with the seems, the clip will get caught in the seem and not fly across the garage floor or gravel driveway never to be seen again.. ;) The rag idea does not break old door cards either (Try playing with a vehicle that is 1952 and 1948 vintage... rag much better.....) Cheers ;)

I know nothing specifically about the toyota boxes apart from supra w58'S... (RUNS NICE BEHIND MY 5l V8 HOLDEN... ;) ) The whine you are hearing is the bearings being preloaded etc. This is removed when you shift to 4th and 5th because 4th locks the top gears to the shaft and 5th drives off 4th. this is generally normal for a high mileage box. I would rebuild it sooner rather than later as it is always easier to fix a mech item if it is not broken as it is more cost effective and not so messy... ;) Cheers

Sweet, Thanks again Parrot. Yep here what you state with the clarity thing. However, The files listed above are optimised not the originals. only had to do this because the original was 3.5Mb and 0.9Mb respectively. These where done at work (yes I have no life) and rollaclub only have a 1Mb limit. The one shown above are a next best option, but do contain everything and will printout beautifully. :dance:. Thanks for the offer of MBW. I have frequented there in the past so know the store well, was suprised to find that they had moved... :dance: I will PDF the rest of these tomorrow. It seems that section still don't show the detail I am after, maybe it is in the vents and air control section. I am looking for the specifics on the c piller. as the car I am lookign at has silicon and bog all through it and is rusting a little bad. I don't think it will be too bad of a repair BUT would dearly love to have a look at the construction of the vents and pillar before I just jump in and hack it up. Cheers PS: Thanks again for your assistance :dance:

Drool. I cannot believe how clean this is for the price... This will show how little I know, but did the KE10's have different rear taillights or was it a model thing, ie ke11 and ke12 lights fit ke10's? Cheers

WOW Parrot, Thanks for that, it does not show enough detail in the areas I was hoping. Couple of questions... What is on 1-41, 1-42, 1-43? Does the electrical section have colours? Is this all of the electrical section. I know of Motorbook world and had rung them already. They seemed to want to offer me gregorys.. :dance: upon talking with them they stated that the original manual was in parts. there was two that he did have which I have put aside but have not had a chance to pick up yet. It seems that they don't have all the bits.. is this true? I do know that the parts reserved are not electrical based :dance:, but I suspect I am a little way off yet. Yes I will be looking at getting the manuals but I suspect this will be a time consuming thing. I gather Toyota don't have them anymore... (hopeful I know!!) I have cleaned up your scans and included them in a pdf for others that require them. :dance: All pages have been rotated and most of the yellow taken out.. :P Cheers EDIT: made more readable. :y: KE1x_1_Body_Optimised.pdf KE1x_3_Body_Electrical_Optimised.pdf

Hey all, I know this is a little bit of a strange request, does anyone have the original workshop manual for a ke10 and does it have the chassis component breakdown (exploded view). The Car I am looking at has some rust in a couple of area whihc I would love to look at the body structure BEFORE cutting the car. Any help would be appreciated. :dance: Secondly I am sure someone has it somewhere but I have not found too much is the wiring diagram for same above mentioned vehicle. Although I suspect I will be drawing my own one... :dance: Cheers

Unfortunately a jump start is not really a good diagnostics tool. This can actually hide the true problem. Cheers

Bolt the carby to the supercharger, that way you can use the fuel as a coolant then make an adaptor to the original manifold.... All too easy. This is alot easier then trying to make the carby accommodate boost... Cheers

Similar in Vic, if the car has been regoed before you really have nto got too much to worry about, this issue will come when selling or reregistering the car when previous rego is unknown... Cheers

Neato job, looks fabulous... Great job Cheers

OK in reality alternators only work above about 1800rpm and above properly. at idle they are "working" but will not be able to supply enough current to support their maximum output. so even at 60km/h you should be charging no problems. Your Battery is a storage device and thus will store charge if the battery is not in good condition then it will not store energy efficently. However, you mentioned that the car works sometimes but not others and this would seem potentially not to bet the battery. I would be testing the battery and its cells and also clean the terminals and clamps and then insulate with vaselene. this will insure that the connections here are in good order. I would also be checking your engine ground and also your chassis ground, if these are not in good order then you will have issue. Buying a battery is a expensive "check" if it proves not to be the problem... Cheers

Too things seem a little out here. 1. being your fast idle 2. being timing. the first one is that when on choke there is a secondary throttle screw which will increase the throttle and thus your idle (hence the name) this will be removed once the car is off choke and thus will return to normal idle.' second is your knock issue. there are three different reasons which will induce the car to knock, 1. is timing (too much) 2. low octane 3. not enough fuel (lean) obviously it is not the second I suspect both lean and too much advance. I would start with the advance first then look at the fuel delivery if that does not help, when you do run the normal fuel you wish to run on. if that is normal unleaded then tune with that in the tank if it is high octane then make sure that is what you continue to use when you fill up. Cheers

Now that looks clean.. Sweet! Cheers