strola

Let me see what I can do... Now help me out here (new to corollas) KE30 two with frames looks like a 4 door, not the coupe with frameless windows. Cheers

I have contacts within glass industry I can have a look at how much newies will be.... What exactly do you require? ;) Cheers

If you use the rag Idea use an old t shirt with the seems, the clip will get caught in the seem and not fly across the garage floor or gravel driveway never to be seen again.. ;) The rag idea does not break old door cards either (Try playing with a vehicle that is 1952 and 1948 vintage... rag much better.....) Cheers ;)

I know nothing specifically about the toyota boxes apart from supra w58'S... (RUNS NICE BEHIND MY 5l V8 HOLDEN... ;) ) The whine you are hearing is the bearings being preloaded etc. This is removed when you shift to 4th and 5th because 4th locks the top gears to the shaft and 5th drives off 4th. this is generally normal for a high mileage box. I would rebuild it sooner rather than later as it is always easier to fix a mech item if it is not broken as it is more cost effective and not so messy... ;) Cheers

Sweet, Thanks again Parrot. Yep here what you state with the clarity thing. However, The files listed above are optimised not the originals. only had to do this because the original was 3.5Mb and 0.9Mb respectively. These where done at work (yes I have no life) and rollaclub only have a 1Mb limit. The one shown above are a next best option, but do contain everything and will printout beautifully. :dance:. Thanks for the offer of MBW. I have frequented there in the past so know the store well, was suprised to find that they had moved... :dance: I will PDF the rest of these tomorrow. It seems that section still don't show the detail I am after, maybe it is in the vents and air control section. I am looking for the specifics on the c piller. as the car I am lookign at has silicon and bog all through it and is rusting a little bad. I don't think it will be too bad of a repair BUT would dearly love to have a look at the construction of the vents and pillar before I just jump in and hack it up. Cheers PS: Thanks again for your assistance :dance:

Drool. I cannot believe how clean this is for the price... This will show how little I know, but did the KE10's have different rear taillights or was it a model thing, ie ke11 and ke12 lights fit ke10's? Cheers

WOW Parrot, Thanks for that, it does not show enough detail in the areas I was hoping. Couple of questions... What is on 1-41, 1-42, 1-43? Does the electrical section have colours? Is this all of the electrical section. I know of Motorbook world and had rung them already. They seemed to want to offer me gregorys.. :dance: upon talking with them they stated that the original manual was in parts. there was two that he did have which I have put aside but have not had a chance to pick up yet. It seems that they don't have all the bits.. is this true? I do know that the parts reserved are not electrical based :dance:, but I suspect I am a little way off yet. Yes I will be looking at getting the manuals but I suspect this will be a time consuming thing. I gather Toyota don't have them anymore... (hopeful I know!!) I have cleaned up your scans and included them in a pdf for others that require them. :dance: All pages have been rotated and most of the yellow taken out.. :P Cheers EDIT: made more readable. :y: KE1x_1_Body_Optimised.pdf KE1x_3_Body_Electrical_Optimised.pdf

Hey all, I know this is a little bit of a strange request, does anyone have the original workshop manual for a ke10 and does it have the chassis component breakdown (exploded view). The Car I am looking at has some rust in a couple of area whihc I would love to look at the body structure BEFORE cutting the car. Any help would be appreciated. :dance: Secondly I am sure someone has it somewhere but I have not found too much is the wiring diagram for same above mentioned vehicle. Although I suspect I will be drawing my own one... :dance: Cheers

Unfortunately a jump start is not really a good diagnostics tool. This can actually hide the true problem. Cheers

Bolt the carby to the supercharger, that way you can use the fuel as a coolant then make an adaptor to the original manifold.... All too easy. This is alot easier then trying to make the carby accommodate boost... Cheers

Similar in Vic, if the car has been regoed before you really have nto got too much to worry about, this issue will come when selling or reregistering the car when previous rego is unknown... Cheers

Neato job, looks fabulous... Great job Cheers

OK in reality alternators only work above about 1800rpm and above properly. at idle they are "working" but will not be able to supply enough current to support their maximum output. so even at 60km/h you should be charging no problems. Your Battery is a storage device and thus will store charge if the battery is not in good condition then it will not store energy efficently. However, you mentioned that the car works sometimes but not others and this would seem potentially not to bet the battery. I would be testing the battery and its cells and also clean the terminals and clamps and then insulate with vaselene. this will insure that the connections here are in good order. I would also be checking your engine ground and also your chassis ground, if these are not in good order then you will have issue. Buying a battery is a expensive "check" if it proves not to be the problem... Cheers

Too things seem a little out here. 1. being your fast idle 2. being timing. the first one is that when on choke there is a secondary throttle screw which will increase the throttle and thus your idle (hence the name) this will be removed once the car is off choke and thus will return to normal idle.' second is your knock issue. there are three different reasons which will induce the car to knock, 1. is timing (too much) 2. low octane 3. not enough fuel (lean) obviously it is not the second I suspect both lean and too much advance. I would start with the advance first then look at the fuel delivery if that does not help, when you do run the normal fuel you wish to run on. if that is normal unleaded then tune with that in the tank if it is high octane then make sure that is what you continue to use when you fill up. Cheers

Now that looks clean.. Sweet! Cheers

Yes this does have merit. However, the last thing that you want it to encourage axle tramp. secondly by using 6 leaves you might find that the car would oversteer really easy. it is always a good idea to run a softer rear than the front, particularly in RWD format. The second thing would have been if you strengthen the front half of the spring you would find that you would control the spring better and still had softer suspension. :bash: but as per normal there is always more than one way to skin a cat.. :eatlead: Cheers

What? Please explain how advancing timing blows gaskets? Confused. Cheers

Sorry felt more like an essay. :bash: But it is an important thing. Cheers :eatlead:

Seems that way but hey not going to judge you as it is an open topic and not directed at you per say but it does seem you feel it is...Your license is a priveledge NOT a right. Speeding is an individuals choice, you are nto forced to speed but if you do and then get caught the police is the worst in the world when you attitude is most of the problem. Secondly we are on a public forum seen by public people whom come from all wlaks of life. if you think that stating that you race on the streets and that is your only choice then you are only asking for trouble. Police do frequent forums, think before you act both on site and on the road. Secondly you don't get into trouble for modifying your car, as long as it is done in the right way and therefore is safe. Sure poeple do dodgy things to cars all the time, I find this out when I get a new one and have to undo a number of things fix them and then do things I want on the cars. I have not found one car yet that I have not needed to fix the previous owners stupidity. I can understand where the police are coming from. 2 hours of fuel is cheap mate, so is lunch (which you would eat anyway) and then entertainment. Lighten up mate you would have a hell of a lot more fun. Cheers

Yes lowering blocks are bad as they actually increase axle tramp because it makes the spring get wound up easier. Surely mate do things properly it does not cost too much. do the stuff yourself. Pedders are particularly good at quoting huge numbers for jobs they don't really want to do. Mates Galant in adeliade was quoted $950 for rear spring and shock replayment. We did it (when I flew over for a whole $300. Biggest thing to learn is not to quote the car. know your car and ask for want you want, parts numbers are your friend. It is like the galant. I don't state at any time what car it is I only want this part.,.... That way the price will not go up because it is an old car, is a very valuble skill to learn. As for not caring about insurance, that is fine an dandy and spoken in true form from someone whom has never had their insurance revoked. They are there to find any way of getting out of paying up, at the end of the day I would rather the piece of mind that the car that has just pulled out infront of me and potentially be given the right of way :eatlead: and happens to be a brand new rolls royce will get replace without a cent more than my premium. I would hate to be the KE35 I saw on wednesday whom got t-bone as I suspect the insurance will not cover him due to rims and other fitments. It is not fun... I had to fight after someone ran a red light and tboned me removing the whole front end of my Brock commodore. Their insurance company revoked their cover due to issues they "found" about his car... don't give them an excuse. Cheers

What he talks to you without pants on... eeek that is horrible.. :eatlead: Cheers

Here here, most people I see at a track have been there before or are part of a club, poeple are lazy and just don't want to do anything or find out anything about how to do it legally as it might be effort and cost them dollars. Just have a look at ebay as a prime example. I can buy a $26 water bottle from rares and flog it on ebay for $50, all because people are lazy. There is not excuse for racing on the streets and realistically our tracks are in a state at present that some of them will be closing because there is not enough support for them, so get of your arse and go to a track pay your moneys and wear a silly grin like the rest pof us whom venture out. There is more to life than just computers and mountain roads.. :eatlead: [/end soap box] Cheers

This is not a new idea. Peter Wherrit came up with the idea back in 1983....personally I am with 7shades here, my VR SS has the ABS disabled (permanently unless my wife gets in the can she will turn it back on (which I don't mind as it could be useful for her as she is not as confident in it as me... my car I suppose :eatlead:) Some of this "so called aids" really do concern me. If I did not want to drive then I would be on a BUS (definitely not a taxi would prefer to take me chances crossing the hume blindfolded.. :bash: Cheers

I am in the process of acquiring my towie but it will be at least 2 months off yet. I need to get it ready for springcar (hopefully) and get the race car prepped. If I had it running you could use my services but again I think it a little too early. I also have to rebuild mates BOSS XR8 ute before the end of August... When is the time for my projects??? :lol: **sigh**. There is going to be a pretty big shift in the towing industry soon and it is only going to be the private guys whom you will use as a certain large yellow corporation will have control of all Melbourne towing contracts including smash. The good news is there are loop holes. Cheers

Thanks Matt, I am in the process of purchase and believe I have one.. :cool: Just need to do normal security checks etc etc.... :lolcry: The 7M build is like anyone motor I have done, but is more of a teaching aid for the owner. He has learnt heaps in the last 6 weeks. I have decked it for him and decked the block, clearanced everythign and done a compression calc and cc'ed the ehad. all in a number of hours. His first lesson was how to work with clean tools and the second patience... :P: he gave up a number of times during the decking and I kept telling him that it was not flat yet. it amazing what is needed when someone attacks a block with wet and dry and a piece of wood... :lol: Oh well it will live again...Just need a gearbox for him so we can toss the slushamatic.. :lolcry: Cheers again PS: Will be a while before a cruise pure rola will require a little TLC.