strola

Just one question.... Has this been skipping before this? error 1 usually is related to not being able to read the disc. this can and most often does happen after a number of dirty discs have been played. When using cd players it is very very important to have the disc clean and in particular the inner rim of the disc. this will usually sit on a rubber ring or pad which over time collects dust and dirt etc. The acts very very similar to the clutch in a manual car and after enough contamination the rubber is ineffective at spinning the discs properly. So to fix this remove sad CD play pull cover off and get to the mechanism (obviously have any cds out of it before disassembly.) Then clean with cotton bud and metho. It might not seem much but it does make a hug difference. This is what happens with most cd players. You will be suprised at how many I have purchased of evilbay and fix within 3 hours of having unwrapped them.. :P: It may not look like you have clean too much but you will be amazed. Handle you cd's and dvds by their outer edge not the centre hole. This applies to all cd/dvd players. including DVR, computer etc etc. Cheers

If you look at it purely from a physics point of view (year 10) then you have actually reduced the length of a lever and hence made it more difficult/requiring more effort to do the same job. So put simply it will be more difficult. Having stated that it also means that any slop in the selector has reduced slightly because of this as well so the possibility of shifting correctly is higher. It will not solve worn syncro issues as this is a box thing. may I suggest that you try double clutching and see whether this improves your shift quality.... :lol: Cheers

Hey peoples, I have joined recently, and would expect I am a little more senior than most here.. :lol: BUGGER. Am of Holden, Chrysler flavours but have always had a soft spot for the KE1x. Currently looking for one and hope to be rollering along soon enough. I know next to nothing about toymotors. But am in process of assisting a mate with his first engine build (a 7M) for his supra. It is coming along nicely and I am sure it will be a very very neato piece of hardware, hope to have the engine in within the next 3 weeks... and Possibly have my garage up by then... please please please. Cheers

What drugs are you on???? put the beam can down and step away from the computer.... More description might be needed here. Everything looks readable and "normal" here.. :lol: Cheers

Yep here too... hoping to compete this year as well but not sure yet... :lol: Cheers

A location will general help more information forthcoming, have you used the "My controls" link in the top of the boards yet.... :lol: Cheers

Tally, please do not take this personally but seriously you are young. You need mentoring and direction. Unfortunately I am nto in SA so cannot help directly but if you take a hell of alot of pics and slow do things I am sure that us and yourself will have more than a good ability to direct you. I would recommend that we look at rebuilding your motor. Yes it can be done over the internet but it will take time. Do you still have the first motor? can you do a compression check on her first? then we can slowly pull the head. I have only ever built a 7M (which is a mates for his supra) but building engines is building engines. If the motor is not in bad shape then it might be just a clean up and head gasket issue. Just need to do diagnostics. I build stupid amounts of cars (for hobby not work) and seriously I can afford to do so because I do things on the cheap.... IE I work out what I require not just replace stuff. Need to read the motor. It concerns me that you have had this issue twice now, but lets move on... How else are you expecting to a. learn and b. commute if you don't have a car?? Cheers

Hey don't worry about that I had someone in my garage stealing my stuff rang the cops and they stated to me that they would not be able to get someone out to my place for at least 1.5 hours, I explained that they possibly might not be here in 1.5 hours, their advice was not to approach the guy, I stated that is fine, don't worry about coming around I will just shoot the prick, and hung up the phone.... 2.01 minutes later two divvy van rock up, they run into the garage where I had the guy on the floor (citizens arrest) the first thing out of the cops mouth was I though you stated you would shoot him, my response was I thought you would not be able to get here for 1.5hours. :lol: just need to play their game. Cheers

Sound very much like the winton fun days and the 6 hour. great cheap motorsport, although there is a little bit more humor in there... :P: Think of most of the rules as humourous ways to post common sense. Remember people common sense is not all that common.. :lol: Cheers

Looks to me like it is the queen victoria shops in the centre of sydney, if I am not mistaken... I travel way too much for my job. I actually love the shot, looks great, very artistic... Cheers

There are gears which sit inside your cluster. The gears have not meshed properly when the odometer has been reset. when resetting push the button at least twice. Sometimes these spider gears do not de-mesh properly and result in that. I have seen clusters before eat themselves because of this but most of the time they are fine. the second "reset" usually de-meshes properly and then all is well. Try not to drive too far with it like this. Cheers PS: Any guage or instrument calibration place will be able to fix them if need be. It would help if we knew where you where as this can aid suggestions for places to go if you need to get it fixed. Try the control panel.. :lol:

OK.. to quote your safety standards.... This is contained in SA Transport safety bulletin on page 15. From what I read here you require another document to determine the maximum lowering you can achieve. might want to search for that. Secondly is no engineer in their right mind will engineer (ie put their name to) a modification which involves flipping a leaf spring, the correct way is to reset or re-leaf the spring. Placing the spring upside down can cause issues. mainly for the spring. Remember an engineer is certifying that the modifications are incorporated into the vehicle in a manor as not to endanger the occupants or other road users (including pedestrians.) The engineer is the ultimate for where the buck stops and if it is proved that he has made an error and the modification causes a resulting death then it is the engineer who has to be accountable for the certification of the modification. Cheers

Hey dvk-kp, surely there is a roads authority in the country. In there there will be a guidline of some description. I am positive that even NZ would have some sort of ruling on what is safe and exceptable, mind you I have recently found out that you have 100 points to play with on your license where we only have 12. :P: Cheers

Ok Mitch Few things of concern. Firstly, from your struts. Is it just the insert ie the shock or is the strut itself RIP. If it is the insert then I would challenge your mechanics effort as I am sure you can find a replace to do the job. Secondly, there are two issues there. firstly the lowering block are not exactly legal. They are nto the best idea in the world and are a cheap way of doing things properly. Secondly is the "lowness" of the vehicle. Does any part of the vehicle hang below 100mm from the ground if not the all is good. This includes springs, exhuast tailshaft crossmembers etc etc. Basically the vehicle needs to clear a 100mm marker. from bitter experience 120mm is a better level and one that means you will not hit anything. Even though 100mm is the legal limit there is plenty out there that you will hit. Cheers

Dougal, If you need to know anything about the Chrysler saturn motors, the mitsu saturn motors, the mitsu syrus motors or the mitsu astron motors pm me. I run a Galant with a 2.6L and have also run a GB Galant qith a very very hot 4G32 (1600) If you are lucky you can find a 4G37 (1700). If you look hard enough you will find the stuff. There are a few gottas but all in all these little this run really nice. My 2.6L has run a best of 14.3 down the quarter and is realistically a stock motor. I have not played with it and it is quite fun. You can EFI the stuff but you will need a number of thing to happen. Your biggest issue I can see is the fact that the exhaust will change sides on you. Let me know if you need more encouragement.. :P: Cheers PS: I know a sigma running a 2.6L with a stupidly large cam (bigger than most v8 boys) and makes 195kw at the treads running quad throttle bodies and N/A. Also runs on normal pump fuel. You just need to wake up the old girls.. :lol:

Chin up mate. It is your first car and something you need to learn early.... patience. Need to lok closely at a few things. (I am not rolla savvy yet). I have run galants before and there is a gasket that sits on the inlet that if you don't put in right (out 180 degrees) will leak water into the inlet and straight into the motor... secondly you placed a "new" motor into the car what condition was it in? Take things one step at a time and do things with diagnostics otherwise it gets expensive really quick. Cheers

Sanding or cleaning the earthing point to roar metal again will work for a period. IF you wish to keep it more permanent the look at coating the area to keep the air out. Vaseline (petroleum jelly) works well for this and is conductive too. I also use this on my battery terminals and the fuse block to stop unnecessary oxidization/corrosion. Good to hear it is up and running again though... :) Cheers

Another coming issue with older cars (not sure whether it is the case in this situation but) the fuses corrode slightly and this is enough resistance to cause issues and so called related electrical gremlins. Replace the fuses with new ones and use some wet and dry on the terminals to clean them up. once done coat the terminals with vaseline (petroleum jelly type) and insert fuse. This will stop the fuse block having bad connections for the rest of the life of the car. Then start cleaning up the plugs and the blade plugs do oxidize as well. Will take a little bit to go through and all should be fresh and working again. the other thing to check is your earthing points. IF an earth has dropped off the car then different issues can result. Electricity will find away to do something, might not be the desired thing but it will make something happen oddly. Good luck. Cheers

Just another thign to thing of is that over time the "floats" tend to become "sinkers" make sure that the float still does.. :) (sit come fuel in a metal tin and drop the float in it should ... Cheers

Ok is this something that has just happened or is it a car you purchased in this state? Remove a spark plug pull the dizzy to coil lead and plug spark plug into lead so it is at the coil. Make sure no fuel around, crank motor does it spark? If not check points as mentioned above, make sure they are gapped correctly, if you wish to check cruedly then use hacksaw blade as gap, this will at least get it running. When gapping make sure the points are on a cam open (thus open). once fixed try turn over again, spark? if not then potential coil. Do you have another car to steal coil from temporarily. Post results.. :) Cheers

As ke25kid has stated the only safe way is to get new lowered springs. There si a number of bad reasons for cutting, not to mention the spring rate changing, the springs not being encapsulated properly, and shock damage etc the car will not ride correctly and you might find the car heads towards power poles... :) Not advised. Do it properly. It will not cost that much and besides, new lowered springs are covered under insurance, cut ones will void your insurance. Cheers

Was sad to see them axe this, but did you hear Adam actually state he used to have one, I thought that may have save the pour girl but nope.... Oh well anyone say rag top.. :) Cheers

May I suggest you spend sometime looking at the vehicle modifications guideline within your state. Most state Registration departments do have these on their websites in rather detailed forms. As far as the bonnet issues it all depends on what is poking out and the year of the vehicle. A simple rule of thumb is don't let anything stick out of the bonnet. Cheers :)