5k Timing Cover

[Sidewinder]

ive searched heaps on this, but my mates and i have been trying all day to remove my timing cover as per the gregorys manual in order to change the gasket and adjust the timing chain.

 

how do you actually get it off? we have all the bolts off and taken taken the nuts off the studs that go in to the sump. we have also removed the pulley seal

 

is it possible to remove the timing cover without dropping the sump?

 

any help would be greatly appreciated

[SLO-030]

I say thats a negative. you have studs thru the sump which need to be lifted upwards in order to remove. but at the same time the crank is stopping it from lifting upwards. id probably loosen off all the nuts and bolts that hold the sump on and drop the front of the sump enough to clear the studs on the timing cover. once removed id remove the studs from the bottom of the timing cover and replace them with bolts, saves you from having to drop the sump again :D hope that helps

[Sidewinder]

exactly the kind of clarity of information i was after. thankyou very much :D

[Taz_Rx]

Well it wasn't a very clear answer as its actually an incorrect assumption!!

 

Just double nut the 4 front studs BEFOR removing the cover.

Removing the water drain for the block will also get you a bit more movement. :D

 

You DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE SUMP! :hmm:

Edited October 25, 2008 by Taz_Rx

[Sidewinder]

Well it wasn't a very clear answer as its actually an incorrect assumption!!

 

Just double nut the 4 front studs BEFOR removing the cover.

Removing the water drain for the block will also get you a bit more movement. :D

 

You DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE SUMP! :hmm:

 

what do you mean by "double nut" the studs?

[Xany]

Lock two nuts together on the stud so that you can use the bottom nut (the one closest to the block) to undo the stud without having to rip into it with multigrips or something similar.

[madrolla68]

Lock two nuts together on the stud so that you can use the bottom nut (the one closest to the block) to undo the stud without having to rip into it with multigrips or something similar.

 

If its a 5K it wont work fellas,they have a flange on the stud to stop people overtightening the rubber gasket and the flange WONT come out the 6mm hole in the sump.

 

Been there tried that.

 

MAtt

[Sidewinder]

i saw no flange? *shrugs*

 

what i did manage to do though, was snap a stud whilst reattaching the sump. don't overtighten em fellas!

 

got front main seal, timing cover and crank pulley seal done....coudnt use my sump gasket though as the kit i have is for a 3k bottom end, and the bolt holes were different :D

 

so i had to put the old gasket back on...its still in alright nick tho...how likely would it be to leak now that i have broken the seal and reattachted it?

[philbey]

if you're really worried put a very thin smear of Silicon gasket sealer on there.

 

don't pile it on like a bloody 7 year olds birthday cake icing though.

[philbey]

if you're really worried put a very thin smear of Silicon gasket sealer on there.

 

don't pile it on like a bloody 7 year olds birthday cake icing though.

[67Rolla-Ken]

mmm birthday cake!

 

 

mmm birthday cake!

 

:)

 

BTW: my 5k had those flanges on the studs, I know what you were on about.