Ke70 Wheel Bearings

[Mybowlcut]

Hey. Got a few questions about wheel bearings in KE70s.

 

I was told today that you can test if the wheel bearings are close to going if there is a lot of wheel play when it is pushed the opposite direction it spins (in towards the car) or if there is oil leaking... Is this right? Are there other ways as well or is this it?

 

Also, I was told that the rear bearings are harder to replace than the front bearings... can someone elaborate on why this is?

 

Cheers.

[irokin]

Also, I was told that the rear bearings are harder to replace than the front bearings... can someone elaborate on why this is?

 

The retainers have to be heated and then pressed onto the axle. Not possible unless you have the correct equipment and know-how. I just leave my axles and new bearings with a mechanic to cut the old ones off and press the new ones on. Usually costs between $40-60 for a pair.

 

Regarding life, excessive end play is an OK indicator. On the fronts it can just mean they haven't been adjusted properly and on the rears it can be difficult to tell whats acceptable and whats not. With the rears once you take them out it will be obvious if they need replacing or not. I usually just wait until they start making a little bit of noise then you definitely need to replace them.

[furryfrog]

I've done a few rear axle bearings in ke70s and other BW diffs, the easiest way to get em off is with a small angle grinder to cut the retainer leaving a 1 or 2 mm and using a chisel to break the last bit. Ive never had to heat up the retainer to put it on but you have no chance without a big ass press.

 

I changed one recently that had collapsed and smashed the oil seal up, but it was obvious cause of the grinding noise from the wheel.

 

As irokin said pulling an axle out and spinning the bearing will let you know the condition, it should spin freely, a dying one will be pitted inside and feel notchy. If they are stuffed its best to remove the axles and take them to a good mechanic to change the bearings, good idea to change the seals aswell.

[Mybowlcut]

The retainers have to be heated and then pressed onto the axle. Not possible unless you have the correct equipment and know-how. I just leave my axles and new bearings with a mechanic to cut the old ones off and press the new ones on. Usually costs between $40-60 for a pair.

 

Regarding life, excessive end play is an OK indicator. On the fronts it can just mean they haven't been adjusted properly and on the rears it can be difficult to tell whats acceptable and whats not. With the rears once you take them out it will be obvious if they need replacing or not. I usually just wait until they start making a little bit of noise then you definitely need to replace them.

So you separate the axles from the car? :lolcry: Is that so he has to do less work so you can pay him less?

 

Mine are making a little bit of noise at the moment and I'm pretty sure it's the rear... but I'm also pretty sure that my diff is whining a tad so I guess we'll see today. I have my mum's friend helping me out and he works at a bearing store so he has the stuff to do it all luckily.

 

I've done a few rear axle bearings in ke70s and other BW diffs, the easiest way to get em off is with a small angle grinder to cut the retainer leaving a 1 or 2 mm and using a chisel to break the last bit. Ive never had to heat up the retainer to put it on but you have no chance without a big ass press.

 

I changed one recently that had collapsed and smashed the oil seal up, but it was obvious cause of the grinding noise from the wheel.

 

As irokin said pulling an axle out and spinning the bearing will let you know the condition, it should spin freely, a dying one will be pitted inside and feel notchy. If they are stuffed its best to remove the axles and take them to a good mechanic to change the bearings, good idea to change the seals aswell.

Seals as well? How much are they usually? Haha. How can you tell if they are fine?

 

Cheers for your help guys!

[Budowski]

Id say the age of the KE70 you would need to replace the wheel bearings/grease/hubseals and split pins.

 

The freeplay you can feel by removing the brake caliper. With the disc rotor cooled down, grab the disc rotor either side and try to wobble if you feel anything there is freeplay.

Remove the cap that keeps the grease from escaping and take the split pin out and renew the pin on reasembly. There will be a little cage that covers the "hub nut". this hub nut is where you adjust the freeplay.The freeplay can be reduced by tightening the nut.

Freeplay for bearings means exactly that, they need a little free play so either bearing each side of the hub can still move, so using the natural weight of a 30mm shifter droping from above the nut, should be enough for starters but a minor bit of tension of about 1-3mm after the freedrop should get you the required freeplay. After a few years of doing these on a regulary basis its a feel and drag of the bearings.

It may be too tight the 1st few times you try it but its all about getting the sweet spot. Too tight and all you will do is end up with wornout/burntout bearings or even seized.

 

If you want to replace the bearings at the stage where the nut is getting adjusted, just take the nut off and then remove the hub/disc rotor as one peice off the strut spindle. Take note there is a washer that sits between the nut and bearing don't loose this :lolcry:.

Pry out the hub seal and proceed to clean all the grease out of the hub and you will need knock out the bearing cups evenly, you'll notice the new ones what they look like.

Fit the new cups for the bearings in exaclty the way they came out. when fitting these you will need to hit them on the other side taking great care that the drift you use to hit then out and in with doesnt hit the surface the brearing needs to run against as this will cuase all sorts of issues.

Make sure the bearing cups are seated you will notice this by the deeper sound the drift makes and the fact the cup is no longer moveing inwards.

 

Work the new grease into the brearings and fully gearse the inside of the hub. Install the larger of the bearings 1st and then fit the hub seal by taping around the metal edge evenly until seal i level with the high edge of the hub you are tapping it into.

Gease the spindle slightly and refit the hub reapeat greaseing the other bearing and fit with washer and proceed to fit nut and tension as mentioned before.

 

 

The rear brearings are pressed onto the axle which requires reamoval of the brake assembly and sometimes a slide hammer to remove from the axle housing.

 

your need a grinder to cut the retaining collar that goes on after the bearing and a chisle and hammer to separtate or you can keep grinding into the axle NOT! recommended.

and youll need a press and some locating tools to remove and fit the bearing to the axle.

 

A new axle seal would be awesome too before you put the axle back.

 

While the axle is out might be a good opurtunity to replace the diff oil and check the brakes and wheel cylinders and brake fluid change.

 

i didnt really have time to spell check this, off to a bucks party, hope if helped to give you an idea of the question you asked

 

if ive missed anything hope others can fill in the gaps it one of those things where is still probably better if you had someone to show you the process.

[Budowski]

haha look at all the replies cool! i didnt see any when i 1st started typing hope all this info and thses guys/myself can help you dude.

[irokin]

So you separate the axles from the car? :lolcry: Is that so he has to do less work so you can pay him less?

 

Heheh yep.

 

Seals as well? How much are they usually? Haha. How can you tell if they are fine?

 

They will come with the bearing kit. I replace them whenever I replace a bearing. They can be a real prick it put in....oily crapness.

[furryfrog]

Just quickly front wheel bearings are easier to check

 

jack the front end up from the sub frame so the wheels are off the ground, grab the wheel at the top and bottom and with your top hand push towards the car while with your bottom hand pull away from the car,then repeat in the opposite order, if you have any play you will feel it. I suck at explaining things.

[Budowski]

Just quickly front wheel bearings are easier to check

 

jack the front end up from the sub frame so the wheels are off the ground, grab the wheel at the top and bottom and with your top hand push towards the car while with your bottom hand pull away from the car,then repeat in the opposite order, if you have any play you will feel it. I suck at explaining things.

A little off topic dude but that cat in your avatar is HUGE!

[Mybowlcut]

Id say the age of the KE70 you would need to replace the wheel bearings/grease/hubseals and split pins.

 

The freeplay you can feel by removing the brake caliper. With the disc rotor cooled down, grab the disc rotor either side and try to wobble if you feel anything there is freeplay.

Remove the cap that keeps the grease from escaping and take the split pin out and renew the pin on reasembly. There will be a little cage that covers the "hub nut". this hub nut is where you adjust the freeplay.The freeplay can be reduced by tightening the nut.

Freeplay for bearings means exactly that, they need a little free play so either bearing each side of the hub can still move, so using the natural weight of a 30mm shifter droping from above the nut, should be enough for starters but a minor bit of tension of about 1-3mm after the freedrop should get you the required freeplay. After a few years of doing these on a regulary basis its a feel and drag of the bearings.

It may be too tight the 1st few times you try it but its all about getting the sweet spot. Too tight and all you will do is end up with wornout/burntout bearings or even seized.

 

If you want to replace the bearings at the stage where the nut is getting adjusted, just take the nut off and then remove the hub/disc rotor as one peice off the strut spindle. Take note there is a washer that sits between the nut and bearing don't loose this :lolcry: .

Pry out the hub seal and proceed to clean all the grease out of the hub and you will need knock out the bearing cups evenly, you'll notice the new ones what they look like.

Fit the new cups for the bearings in exaclty the way they came out. when fitting these you will need to hit them on the other side taking great care that the drift you use to hit then out and in with doesnt hit the surface the brearing needs to run against as this will cuase all sorts of issues.

Make sure the bearing cups are seated you will notice this by the deeper sound the drift makes and the fact the cup is no longer moveing inwards.

 

Work the new grease into the brearings and fully gearse the inside of the hub. Install the larger of the bearings 1st and then fit the hub seal by taping around the metal edge evenly until seal i level with the high edge of the hub you are tapping it into.

Gease the spindle slightly and refit the hub reapeat greaseing the other bearing and fit with washer and proceed to fit nut and tension as mentioned before.

 

 

The rear brearings are pressed onto the axle which requires reamoval of the brake assembly and sometimes a slide hammer to remove from the axle housing.

 

your need a grinder to cut the retaining collar that goes on after the bearing and a chisle and hammer to separtate or you can keep grinding into the axle NOT! recommended.

and youll need a press and some locating tools to remove and fit the bearing to the axle.

 

A new axle seal would be awesome too before you put the axle back.

 

While the axle is out might be a good opurtunity to replace the diff oil and check the brakes and wheel cylinders and brake fluid change.

 

i didnt really have time to spell check this, off to a bucks party, hope if helped to give you an idea of the question you asked

 

if ive missed anything hope others can fill in the gaps it one of those things where is still probably better if you had someone to show you the process.

Holy friggon crap! Man you have enough info to do a FAQ with that! I feel bad because I'm actually getting a friend of a friend to do it for me... You went to all that trouble. :hmm: Haha. You should make a how-to/faq though...

 

The friend drove my '70 and we listened to where it was coming from and we both agreed the right rear... so he said to just replace that one (he works at a bearing place so I think he knows his stuff).

[Budowski]

Holy friggon crap! Man you have enough info to do a FAQ with that! I feel bad because I'm actually getting a friend of a friend to do it for me... You went to all that trouble. :lolcry: Haha. You should make a how-to/faq though...

 

The friend drove my '70 and we listened to where it was coming from and we both agreed the right rear... so he said to just replace that one (he works at a bearing place so I think he knows his stuff).

Haha yeah i get a little carried away. Wans't much trouble i think it took me 10 minutes to write that off the top of my head. Most of the other replies were very similar.

 

Last time i tried to help someone i only started with checking the exterior systems of a clutch problem they had before going anyfurther and got flamed. But its best to know what your facing before just replacing one item.

Had a guy replace a clutch on his seca once to find the slave, master and 3rd gear were gone too and decided after buying a clutch kit, he had wasted his time becuase he ran out of money to try and get a cheap bomb going. So i pays to check everything 1st before making a financial decision.

He ended up having the car towed to the wreckers.

 

I found the LHR wheel bearing was gone in my TRX bluebird and so i just replaced that item.