You mean the ae71 with a ke front?

 

Got a project thread for it?

 

Linky linky, you know I was thinking of coming down and grabbing it hahahahha.

 

Travis.

yeah changed my mind big time and this is the project thread for it .

 

i just wanna track car atm, going to weld my own roll cage into it and a couple of racing seats , closest track to my place is winton , which is about 2 hours away

ahhk, cool as.

 

Should be sweet, a track car is the go for learning, I just CBF'd.

 

Closest track to me is 5 minutes away, raliegh raceway, you heard of it? great little track. Next closest would be qld raceway id say.

 

Travis

f@$k yeah i used to race 2 stroke go karts on raliegh

had a prezzie show up in the mail friday , just got around to having a look at them now, I'm a bit unsure as to what injectors to use though ? do i just keep the 20v ones in the throttle bodys and use the standard 16v ones or do i blank the ones off in the 16v had and use the 20v ones ???

 

 

now all i need ismy t3 adaptor , any one sellin cheap ?

Put a WTB add up. On all the car sites, ae86dc rc, even toymods even.

 

Quick hint:

 

Cough.. look in wtb threads on ae86dc a sponser whom we must not name sells them I'm pretty sure.. cough.

 

Travis

yeah thanks for that trav, had a bit more of a look around and figured out that you unbolt the throttle bodys and bolt them straight onto the adapter lol

Yea injectors are on the rail on 16v, not on manifold.

 

20v injectors wont work on a 16v.

 

I'm not sure if you need the 16v TPS or the 20v TPS.

 

Also will need to figure out the throttle cable etc.

 

Also a handy thing I found out today: bigport injectors are roughly 195cc and smallport ingectors around 235cc and 4agze are around 325cc? something like that.

 

Smallport injectors might prove to be a decent, not too large upgrade :bash:

 

Travis.

trav to bad ya don't live closer lol u sound like a handy fella ! so the 20v injectors wont fit in my 16v rail ? cheers for the info ,

 

had a bit of a play on the car tonight and put my xt130 arms onto my 86 struts , 25mm roll centre adjusters , new nolothane bushes and threw them in, weldin my 4.11 centre up tommorow and putting that in on my lunch break, than when i can get the car to a rolling state and onto a trailer ill bring it into town and start a bit of real work on the old girl

Haha I live around no one from RC, it sucks.

 

Nope 20v injectors wont fit in your 16v rail. But if you had a 20v 2j injectors fit up, keep that in mind if you ever get a 20v, if you don't its really just a bit of useless info I just gave you :P

 

Hows the suspension look? Complete specs?

 

Also I cannot stress enoguh on the heat required for welding diffs.

Make sure you heat it up before you weld it. And I mean heat it. Then stick weld it with the proper electrodes, these are not normal eneral purpose electrodes either, I could find out which would be best, but I'm sure you could ask someone highly knowledgable, then after its welded, STICK IT IN LIME FOR 24 HOURS!! don't just whack it back in there.

 

This is how I would do it anyway, its probably the most proper way you can weld a diff so far as I'm aware. Personally I would never take a mig, or a gasless mig (yes ive seen this done :0 )

 

Anyway up to you and how long you want it to last :bash: you will probably end up getting a T series and a trd 2 way anyway :D

 

Glad I could help :)

 

Travis.

Yeah which electrodes Trav? And what’s with the lime dude?

 

I’m looking at waving the welder at my diff. I got an arc welder and a spare diff center that’s buggered to practice on.

 

One thing that sucks about a locker is the under steer around corners. I just brought a ae71 that’s got a locker. Only driven around the block a couple time and it’s pretty weird. Side ways so easy but not sure yet if the amount of under steer will be a problem. It’s like it tries to push the car straight when cornering.

yeah a bit confused about the whole lime thing ? what do you wanna grow a crop in your diff centre ? just jokin but yeah keen to see what you mean

 

i have welded a few up before for mates just using mig and filling the entire centre up slowly with out heating it too much and none of them have broken one yet

 

but ill look into that too,

 

rolliac, thats cause it is pushing the car forward around corners lol took me a while to get used to , with a few funny spin outs getting used to it

 

and at the moment specs are: (and not in the car either)

 

motor:

4age rebuilt

new gaskets

new welsh plugs

mild port and polished head

bored 80 thou

forgies

s/t quads

new oil pump

new water pump

99% of the rwd water gear

arp head and main stud kit

lightened fly wheel

heavy duty clutch

standard t50

 

suspension:

locked borgie

white line adjustable trailing arms

white line adjustable sway bars front and back

xt130 lca's nolothane bushes

ae86 struts new brake pads

25mm rca's

short stroke shocks in front (don't have a clue what they are :) )

cut kings in front

4wd hilux shocks in back with au xr8 springs

 

interior:

drivers and passenger seats with plenty of room for skidders in the back :)

 

stereo:

had an am radio threw it out the window

 

exterior:

ae71 shell with ke70 front end

lovely two tone paint job

dent in passengers side from a guard rail

spirit wing

tinted windows

 

 

things i still need:

rwd extractors

t3 adaptor

vl turbo pick up pump

bosch

surge tank

some one to wire it up for me

 

things i want:

razor back

strut brace

alloy radiator

silicone hoses all that jazz

re locate battery to boot ra ra ra ra can't really think of much more atm

Well the thing with putting it in lime is lime will make it cool down super super super slowly, which is what you want, you don't want your diff to be brittle and shatter on the first corner. And I mean shatter.

 

So placing it in lime for a minimum of 24 hours lets it cool super slowly and equeax the grain structure, obviously not as good as forging, but close enough for a backyard weldie diff in a 900kg car :)

 

If you wanted it to be super brittle you would heat it up alot and submerge it in oil.

 

Not 100% sure on the electrodes, I have an idea but I will find out 100% for you tomorow off my dad, Please note these electrodes arnt cheap, looking around 20 dollars per electrode.

 

Your 4age is a bigport correct? Are those the current modifications or ones you are going to do?

 

Cheers.

 

Travis.

Edited June 24, 200917 yr by trav_555

Got some info for you boys.

 

Electrode: Nickel ferrite. Specially made for cast.

 

Cost: $20+ per electrode, need around 5 - 10

 

Procedure: Heat parts to be welded (not case :)) with an oxy acetylene. Keep continuous heat on parts to be welded, have it set up so its heating with oxy whilst welding. do little bits of weld with the electrodes specified, take it easy, still applying continuous heat, once finished welding keep heating, "submerge" in a bucket filled with lime for 48+ hours (very important)

 

After 48 hours of being in lime take out and done, just blow out the lime dust with air.

 

Put back in and fill with oil etc etc. You know the drill.

 

If you can't figure out how to do any stuff I've left out maybe this isn't the job for you :D But by all means ask me any questions and I will find out the answers for you as best I can :D

 

This isn't a quick on the cheap kind of thing, make sure your settings are correct, you have enough electrodes to do the job and the know how on doing the job and welding.

 

And most of all KEEP HEATING ENTRE TIME UNTIL ITS PLACED IN LIME!!!

 

Hope that helps someone :)

 

Might be useful in the FAQ or something even, dunno.

 

Cheers.

 

Travis.

You don't need lime necessarily, you just need to keep the heat in the part as long as possible. Sand, Weld blankets, something that doesn't conduct heat will do.

 

I would Preheat in the 150-200 degree range and that should be fine. Stick it in the oven to do that, don't hit it with the oxy.

 

As Cast Iron cools, the microstructure of the metal changes. Crudely put, the faster it cools, the less desirable the changes are, so you want to slow the cooling down. Hence, preheating and then insulating it after the welds are laid should give you good results.