rollababe09 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 hi guys, new to this site. have had a little look around & its pretty good! some pretty helpful stuff. have noted the info on the ke30 etc strut tops for lowering, but I was after any help/info on what brake upgrades anyone has ACTUALLY done - with SUCCESS. I wanted to get rid of the front transverse leaf spring, tension up the front with some decent suspension ive heard high recommendations of the white line sway bar kits & likes - can be used with removing the leaf spring. sounds like a great start. what strut conversions has anyone gone with? I'm wanting to upgrade the brakes also - would be ideal to have something that goes onto the struts but not priority I would rather upgrade the brakes to something a little bigger than ke20-ke30 etc ive heard of some using rx7 brakes? - if so what master cylinder set up was used for the system? basically I'm wanting your ideas - what have you does to upgrade your brakes & suspension & has worked out well, great handling & braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEI069 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 I'm wanting to upgrade the brakes also - would be ideal to have something that goes onto the struts but not priority I would rather upgrade the brakes to something a little bigger than ke20-ke30 etc ive heard of some using rx7 brakes? - if so what master cylinder set up was used for the system? How ya doin, nice to know another ke10 is still on the road The ke30 brake upgrade onto the ke10 is a popular option as you can use your original struts and keep the tens 4x110 pcd. you need to use ke20 hubs with ke30 discs and mounting hardware and the ke55 caliper(girlock) works quite well. this is more than adequate of stopping a ke10. A good master cylinder to use is a mazda rx4 which will fit with minor modification. This is a dual circuit and has the reservoir mounted onto it, new steel brake lines will need to be made. With the front suspension i personally don't like the transverse leaf, so get rid of it. By using a heavier rate front coil spring, handling will be much improved. Ke20 suspension components are commonly used on the 10s strut hope this helps a little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolliac Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Hopper Stoppers sell a big brake kit for Corollas Hoppers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 (edited) Hopper Stoppers sell a big brake kit for Corollas Hoppers From memory you have to change the struts to either celica or corona for the bigger stub axel. They are a huge brake setup though. I use the Ke-11 disk brake master cyl(thats what Peter Robinson told me it was)not sure on the difference though to the other one. KE-20 stuts, don't use the whole strut just the top and spring. you will get heaps of pos camber if you use the whole strut. With a Signiature stabiliser bars 22mm front sway bar and KE-55 rotors and calipers and NO booster. Seems to pull up my 97rwkw ke-11 no probs at all. stu. Edited February 12, 2009 by kickn5k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollababe09 Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 (edited) i should have also added that ive bought mags for my ke10 also. they are 15" RS5's - FWD offset - I'm real fussy with mags & these are all i could find that I really liked & found a overrated 2nd hand set at a price i couldnt turn down so just bought them! 15" 6.5"wide 5 stud 5 x 100 / 5 x 114.3 38mm offset so will have more room behind these wheels for the brake upgrade. i think i have alot of to look into - suspension upgrade - away with the front leaf , put in a sway bar kit from White line. change the struts - change the brake system & get the FWD wheels onto too! Edited February 12, 2009 by rollababe09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Felix has ripped out a transverse leaf I think. Run some short KE20 springs with the strut top swap in the FAQ and remove the front leaf would be a good easy start. You'll need to do some serious work to get your mags on, changing stud pattern at the front will be fairly straightforward, changing the rears may be tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 I've got a ke15 with the following done: Removed front leaves Standard ke1x strut bodies KE3x HD strut inserts with spacers. Gives 2" less droop. Cut ke2x coils (do at your own risk) and ke2x top spring plates. Coils still captive. Car sits with lower arms just above parallel to ground. ke30 discs on ke2x hubs to retain 4x110 PCD. Whiteline front bar Tokiko heavy duty rear shocks. Shorter than std shocks for 2" less droop to match front Yokohama 185/60x13 A539's with 44psi front, 40psi rear. on mazda 626 13x5.5" rims. (on my second set of A539's now.. .these tyres rock rain or shine) Braking: Pulls up great, will stop from 100kays in under 30 meters. The tyres made a huge difference to braking ability. Only time I've experienced slight fade is down Mt Glorious. Handling: Awesome, scary fast through the corners. The car neutral steers with slight understeer if overcooking a corner, can easily be turned into oversteer with sudden throttle lift off, or controlled decompression lockup. Have only come across a handful of cars that come close to keeping up through the twisties. Used to be frustrating when I lived up Mt Nebo with all the bikes constantly slowing me down. The front swaybar and tyres made the biggest difference to how it goes around corners. Personally I'd throw a whiteline front bar on before doing anything else, and fit the best tyres you can afford. Works great with standard front suspension. Removing the front leaves without fitting a front bar makes the car handle worse than standard. Oh yea, I've also got a ke16 with a similar setup (including swaybar and tyres) and it handles sweet to. Doesn't handle as good as the ke15, as the wagons stock rear springs are too stiff and make the rear skittish through corners. Handles heaps better with a load on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 (edited) Hey felix, have you got any pics of these beasts? Your rides thread has pics but they aren't displaying. I'd love to see what sort of stance you've got with these suspension mods. Edited February 12, 2009 by philbey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Yea I need to update my rides thread, and get some pics up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Felix, Did you use a ke20 front sway bar ? and to change the stud pattern will the ke30 hubs fit on ke10 stubs ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 (edited) Felix, Did you use a ke20 front sway bar ? and to change the stud pattern will the ke30 hubs fit on ke10 stubs ? Nope, used a whiteline ke1x item. Works good but you can have issues with it hitting your brake calipers at full lock if you let your pads wear down to much. More of an issue with akebono ke2x calipers (long thin pads) than with the jap ke30 calipers (square pad type). Yep ke30 front hubs will bolt up with ke1/2x disc brake wheel bearings. Original rear axles (and drums) will need redrilling or something as ke30 axles are no good (unlike into a ke2x where you just need to trim the ends). The bearing face to drum hub face distance is all wrong due to narrower rear drum width on ke1x... and no, ke3x drum brake backing plates don't bolt on to the ke1x diff housing, stud pattern different. Plus you'd also have to play around with brake lines and handbrake cable. Edited October 8, 2010 by Felix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Nope, used a whiteline ke1x item. Works good but you can have issues with it hitting your brake calipers at full lock if you let your pads wear down to much. More of an issue with akebono ke2x calipers (long thin pads) than with the jap ke30 calipers (square pad type). Yep ke30 front hubs will bolt up with ke1/2x disc brake wheel bearings. Original rear axles (and drums) will need redrilling or something as ke30 axles are no good (unlike into a ke2x where you just need to trim the ends). The bearing face to drum hub face distance is all wrong due to narrower rear drum width on ke1x... and no, ke3x drum brake backing plates don't bolt on to the ke1x diff housing, stud pattern different. Plus you'd also have to play around with brake lines and handbrake cable. Yeah ive been talking to Curly about the rear axles of a ke30 into a ke11 BW, Same conclusion so I'm going to cut up a ke30/55 diff and fit the whole lot. All the ke11 gear will be bagged and tagged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Yeah ive been talking to Curly about the rear axles of a ke30 into a ke11 BW, Same conclusion so I'm going to cut up a ke30/55 diff and fit the whole lot. All the ke11 gear will be bagged and tagged. The ke30/55 diff is wider, can't remember offhand by exactly how much, but probably something like 40mm. You'll most likely run into scrubbing with 14" rims/tyres and have to massage the guards. Think Ke20me has had his 14's redrilled to 4x110, I know that ScottKE1X did. I had to roll the lip on my rear guards a little bit running 185/60's on mazda 13x5.5" rims with the std diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Oh poo. Might shorten the 55/30 diff then. Good thing a mate can do this sort of thing for me. Ae71 hubs are the same as ke30 Ae71 backing plates have a different mounting pcd to the stub of a ke11. I'm running ae71 calipers, rotors, hubs, ke30 backing plates, ke30 brake lines and ke11 wheel bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 (edited) There's a bloke in adelaide that modifies the old celica (?) 14 inch stockies and redrills them to 4x110 that's why there's so many ke10's in adelaide running them. He's mates with Scott. Edited October 12, 2010 by philbey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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