Twin Carb Replacement Help

[camport]

Hi

 

Motor is a worked 5k (twin sidedrafts, cam, headers etc)

 

Recently after a warm up squeeling would start upon deceleration from the carb closest to the firewall. It gradually got worse.

 

First tightened any bolts around intake and manifold but they were all secure, then noticed fuel on my hand under the said carb.

 

Next feeling around, a piece of the manifold fell into my hand (notice hole and piece bottom of pic)

 

 

Not to sure what caused this but I guess it would have been pretty bad if I was driving when it decided to fully go.

 

Anyway -

 

I'm now in search of a new set of sidedrafts but i'm still learning and don't know what I should be looking for.. I already have the manifold for them which is a redline so I hear that fits solexs, dellorios and webers.

 

When I look at ads for twin sidedrafts the specs include ;

 

 

Pump jet 35

Idle jet 59f21

Main jet 120

E-tube F47

Air corrector 150

Choke 30mm

 

Could someone please point me in the direction of what I should be looking to match up between my carbs and the new set to know they will work properly or what measurements I should be doing, I've been told to just replace the jets from mine into the new ones etc - will that work?

 

Thanks

[styler]

just braze/solder/weld the old bit back on?

[camport]

just braze/solder/weld the old bit back on?

Would welding it be wise?

 

If I want to 'upgrade' though, the previous question still stands.

[philbey]

Yeh, you could get it repaired as Styler mentioned, but unless your a gun with the silver solder, I'd get a pro to do it. It would be hard to get it done nicely though, you'll probably have a bunch of dags etc internally.

 

If you buy a new set of Webers, you can easily enough just swap all the jetting and gear over to the new ones. You'll need the same size though.

[Felix]

I don't know if solder would work. I'd look at metal epoxy like JB Weld.

[parrot]

I don't know if solder would work. I'd look at metal epoxy like JB Weld.

 

 

Agreed, the grub screws are simply there to locate the chokes / venturi's and don't need to be tightened as much as these obviously had been at some point.

 

If you replace the carb, you need to locate one of the same type. i.e. Webers have the type stamped on top, Solexes have a metal sticker with the part number, though this often falls off, or becomes illegible.

 

For solex info, talk to Rodger http://rmcarburetors.net/

[philbey]

Silver Solder, as in a different alloy of Brazing material, not the same as an electrical solder.