Suspension Setup For Ke70

[David[RL]]

I'm not a expert on suspension setups so I'll just ask here to hear what you guys have to say to this

 

ke70 2 door:

slightly heavyer front because of the 2T-B engine, T50 gearbox and stock rear axle with welded locked diff

removed all the sound deadening, carpets etc, that made the car less heavyer

205/50R15 tyres on alloy wheels

lowered a bit at the front and alittle bit more at the back

I want the car to slightly oversteer instead of understeering like it is now ( yes I know I should remove the locked diff or get a LSD )

the car is a daily driver, but I want to have some fun too :moon:

so a fast streeter is the goal for this car..

 

slightly stiffer shocks both at front at the back

slightly stiffer springs, almost the same stiffness at front and back?

a few degrees toe-out?

a few degrees negative camber?

should I change the caster much? can caster be measured with "suspension shop-tools" ?

 

:)

[mikeys toy[RL]]

my experience is; if you stiffen up the rear and soften the front, it will be more prone to oversteer

[Super Jamie]

toe out is crap on a street car, sure it turns in nicely, but bump steer is a pain in the ass, and the stability provided by running like half a degree toe in on each side makes your car beautiful to drive. try both, i think it's more a driving style thing, but if the rest is setup well, you don't need toe out to promote quick turn in

 

you can get your struts bent for negative camber. i'd run like 1.5 degrees on a street car. you can also fit lower control arms (legality issues, increases front track) or spend lots of money on adjustable strut tops and having your struts changed to small diameter springs and height adjustable seats

 

i run about 2.75 degrees castor. there are some who say wind on as much castor as you can, whilst retaining an even setback. there are some who say anything more than 2.5 is a waste. anyone who does a wheel alignment can set your castor for you

 

the primary source of your understeer is your locker

 

your tyres are also too big, they should be 195/50/15

[demuire]

Yes, your main source of understeer would be your locker. I've driven with an open diff, a locker and now an LSD, and the locker pushes a lot into corners.

 

I run max castor (can't remember what it is) and about 3 degrees neg camber on my car.

 

You always want your rear to be softer than your front. Both in roll stiffness as well as spring/damper rates. You can change the ratios a little, stiffer rear will tend to make the car oversteer more.

 

I'd prefer more camber and slight toe in, than any toe out at all. Toe out makes the car tend to wander around and tramline, and sacrifices straight line stability.

 

Moving weight balance to the back will also help. You can do this by moving battery and anything else heavy that doesn't need to be in front, to the back, or just putting more weight in the back. Personally I don't think the difference is very noticeable though. Too much weight in the back (which is unlikely to happen since you have your engine in front) can cause the car to be quite hard to save once it starts spinning.

[David[RL]]

battery is allready in the boot

my ae86 has alot negative camber, alot toe-out, quaife quick ratio steering and small sparco steering wheel, longer lower control arms, bilstein shocks, coilovers, unknown stiffness at the springs, ( maybe too stiff ) and it's great to drive, too hard on the steering wheel when driving slow.. maybe alittle unstable at speed but much better than my ke70 :moon:

 

my ke70 is also alot lower at back than front, so weight balance would be better

but is it true that if it's lower at the back the car accelerates quicker?

and handles better if the car is lower at the front?

[demuire]

Making the back lower than the front will tend to make the car understeer.

[Super Jamie]

my ae86 has ... alot toe-out ... too hard on the steering wheel when driving slow ... unstable at speed

answered your own question :moon: