Baffling The Sump

[kangaroosa]

I'm not sure everyone wants to hear my story in this thread as it may be a bit off topic. I can PM you Xany if everyone prefers.

[Xany]

meh...nah its all kinda related anyway.

[kangaroosa]

Ok, here i go.

I used thin oil to run it in from memory. Not sure what blend - but it was thinner than 20-50. I started it up and ran in the cam (you know the drill). Engine temps got up to high 90's - it was bloody hot. At the time i was told that wasnt abnormal, considering it was a worked motor and all the internals were tight.

It had a noisy lifter from day one. Kept driving it anyway. A few days passed and the noisy was BAD!!. Adjusted tappets and couldnt get one of them right (still noisy). Engine came out. It was buggered lifter which took a lobe off the cam. It seems a dodgy push rod caused the problem. So, the whole top end was replaced (new push rods, lifters, cam, threaded adjustable thingys).

Run in was undertaken as per normal reccomendations. Similar to a procedure that someone has linked to here before.

 

People have suggested that the oil usage may be related to the buggered lifter causing premature wear to the valve guide. Possible i suppose.

 

I personally think its the Rings. Just a hunch i guess. I'm still yet to do a compression test. Gotta get my twin SU's setup before i rip the engine out anyway.

 

*EDIT* I am seriously interested in buying a baffled sump if anyone has got one they want to part with................TRDke70 hehe. Did you do the work yourself or do you still have the contact for the person who did the work?

Edited June 12, 2005 by kangaroosa

[TRD ke70]

ok, i think what your engine has done is glaze the bores up, because you ran the cam in as what it says on the spec sheet,2500rpm for 20 minutes or something like that.

 

the engine hasn't had any load on it(no load on the rings).now don't get me wrong, i think your've done a good thing by trying to run the cam in, but(there's always a but) the engine needs load on it for the rings to bed in.

 

what a lot of these cam manufactures don't tell you is that you can run the cam in by driving it, just don't flogg it.

the next thing is the oil, don't use castrol oil to run your engine in,or any other oil that is "Friction Modified" this will glaze the bores up as well.

what i use is the cheapest oil from the local supermarket, most of the time it's a SF or lower rated oil.

 

i think SH is the highest at the moment.(could be new post maybe for oil ratings)

because oils are getting better and better there's less engine wear happening, when you run an engine in you need a small amount of wear to happen.

 

hope this helps and clears up some questions.

 

yeah i did make the sump for the rally car, didn't take to long to do.

all you need is some steel,a mig, and a sump and some patients.

[kangaroosa]

Thanks for your opinion and suggestion TRDke70. I had a hunch it was the rings/bores. I was in two minds whether to drive the car straight away or run in the cam. I chose the cam method and i still buggered it up. Ohh well, we live and learn.

 

As for the sump. Have you got any pics. Its no problem for me to get the metal and have it welded. But I would just like an idea of what goes where in relation to the location of the baffles.

Edited June 12, 2005 by kangaroosa

[TRD ke70]

here's a couple of links that show you what they look like inside, the general idea is to stop the oil moving away from the pickup.

 

sump 1

 

sump 2

 

sump 3

 

i haven't got any picture's of our sump, it'll be different because it's an upright.

 

some points when making a baffled sump:

 

you want oil to flow into the pickup area not out, so angle the plates towards the pickup.

 

don't make the area around the oil pickup to large or to small.

 

don't fully weld the baffle, mine is bolted in so it can be removed if the sump needs cleaned.

[kangaroosa]

Thanks for the pics. They give me some idea of what direction i have to head now.

[kangaroosa]

I spoke to my engine builder today about baffling my sump.

Two options that he can make are:

- Race Type. Basically a box or four walls that surround the oil pick-up. These doors are hinged, and only open inwards to allow oil to flow into the pick-up area. These are effective for heavy acceleration, braking and cornering. Price? $400+ because its all custom and labour intensive.

 

- Cheaper Option / Basic baffle. Plates/tight mesh behind the pick-up to resist the movement of oil backwards under acceleration. Also a curved plate is placed at the rear of the sump to direct the oil back into the pick-up area and prevent it splashing up. (sounds long winded and dodgy, but i saw one he had lying around and it looks pretty schmik).

Price? $50

 

When i take my 5k back in a month or two, i'm going to get him to make the cheaper baffle option. As well as new rings, hone the bores, new bearings, gaskets and reassemble for $750.

[TRD ke70]

good decision, :P

you'll be rewarded woth an engine that won't suffer from oil surge.

[Super Jamie]

50 bucks, that's a bargain! :P get a couple done and sell them for a hundred :D

[kangaroosa]

Thats a possibility. Once mine is done, i'll get some pics and post them here. If anyone is impressed and interested, i could take orders. I wouldnt charge $100 of course (just the price for the work done and postage).

[Super Jamie]

rollaclub sump, exchange only :jamie:

[Super Jamie]

that's the only way you'd do it, you'd run out of sumps pretty quick i reckon

[Mr Revhead[RL]]

yeap, exchange.

 

ill do some TRD style 4age cam pulleys :jamie:

[Super Jamie]

start drilling K motor cam pulleys to degree the cam back and forth say, 3 to 5 degrees each way. another exchange part :jamie: