Sr20 Conversion To Ke55 Plus Rebuild Plus Pimpage

[JDM55]

Going by the Kingpin inclination thread on TM. there's only 0.3deg difference in XT130 and KE70 kingpin angles. As far as i know, KE70 and KE55 struts are identical (apart from springs etc)

 

 

so xt130 ,ke70 and ke55 struts are all the same basicly what your saying??? hmmm well i know for a fact my 55 struts didnt have the hell camber issue i have now with the xt130 struts in there, strange buisness, shes a tuffy ....

 

my biggest problem i have is camber, the brake up grade itself is ok , not huge i would like to go the hilux option,just for some beafy stopping power,

 

i looked at getting camber kits and coil overs probably would just about set the camber right,how ever i run into another issue and that is my wheels are far to close to the xt130 struts to allow the fitment of a coil overset, thus can't use camber adjusters,

 

could use spacers on the wheels , but there already sitting out further than i want and the fact i need this car engineered means no spacers allowed,

 

 

i guess i could change the wheels ,then i could have the big brakes ,the xt130 struts,the coil overs , and the adjustable camber kits,

 

but i like my wheels and it would be another large exspence i most definatley don't need right now,

 

 

more research more time should be able to work something out!!!!!!!

[Evan G]

$350 for the weld on coilover sleeve kit (with springs of your choice) and $300 for camber tops.

[JDM55]

$350 for the weld on coilover sleeve kit (with springs of your choice) and $300 for camber tops.

 

 

 

yeah i know man dear as aye but if it was going to help drasticly id seriously consider them,that is, if there were to actualy fit with my wheels,

 

i think the ruff size of the spring is 3inches in diameter, i have less than 5 mm between the strut and the wheel ,shes tight like a tiger in there

Edited September 13, 2010 by JDM55

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

 

ra28???? jesus another one ,what size disks and brakes fit on those struts??? would the xt130 hubs fit with my brake combo or are the caliper mounting brackets different? very interested in any info on that ,also yeah i will neeed torque settings in the future ill keep that in mind mate,

 

I ran the ra28 ones for quite some time on my ke30, they have a large solid disk, about the same size as the stock xt130 but solid.

I had a set of xt130 struts to trial as well, and yes the camber was all wrong.

I did try the vented xt130 disk and caliper on the ra28 strut, but i seriously cannot remember the results with the bearings ect, its probably been 6-7 years. I went with the commo stuff before i got too far into it.

I may still have both sets at the oldies house somewhere, will have a look next time i go there.

[JDM55]

any ways, i after a little thought on the advice from you guys,decided that it was in my best interest to remove the fly wheel and see if it could be machined to save it,

 

very surprised actualy how easy this was!!! i had read a few threads on other forums about crazy ways to lock the fly wheel to stop it turning while cranking on the bolts, so was a little nurvous about running into dramas with the bolts them selfs,

but to my surprise the rattle gun kicked ass yet again! stoked, probably the easyest thing ive done on this build so far, :dance:

 

these were the 8 bolts in question,holding the fly wheel on.read horror stories of the heads being rounded,due to how hard they were to remove......

 

 

lucky the rattle gun kicked some ass and is now my new fav tool :laff:

 

 

 

 

had a real good look at the bolts, some looked perfectly fine ,a few of them looked almost a little warped?

strange, i think if i can find a cheap enuff set i will replace them, but I'm not paying 80 dollars plus shipping for factory bolts thats just mental!

 

 

 

 

 

this is what it looked like behind the fly wheel, not to bad realy , was expecting to see alot of gunky leaky oily stuff, but there was none,just some dryed up dirt and crusty bits....

 

 

 

 

gave it a bit of a quick scubb to get a better look, everything looks fine behind there.

 

question should i change this seal any way to be on the safe side or better not to disturb it at all?????????????

 

Edited September 13, 2010 by JDM55

[JDM55]

I ran the ra28 ones for quite some time on my ke30, they have a large solid disk, about the same size as the stock xt130 but solid.

I had a set of xt130 struts to trial as well, and yes the camber was all wrong.

I did try the vented xt130 disk and caliper on the ra28 strut, but i seriously cannot remember the results with the bearings ect, its probably been 6-7 years. I went with the commo stuff before i got too far into it.

I may still have both sets at the oldies house somewhere, will have a look next time i go there.

 

 

 

pm sent mate cheers

[JDM55]

fly wheel off...........

 

 

and again the kick your face in rattle gun saves the day with the removal of the front

pulley bolt, :dance:

 

 

 

 

then going back thru the wierd ass way of hanging the motor to the stand ,shes back on ,minus engine mount brackets, and fly wheel. job well done

 

[JDM55]

going to be jumping around a little bit with this hole section ,

 

thought id do a little bit of a guide on polishing stuff,

most of you probably know how to polish and its not that hard realy if you have a fair bit of time

on your hands ,you can do a very good job,

 

in my case time is limited,and polishing stuff can take up a great deal,

if i was building a show car then by all means would definatley spend at least an extra month or 2

on extra detailing ,but I'm building this as a daily to be driven car,so no need to get to rediculous with it,that being said,

 

with a little elbow grease can turn rusty parts,specialy anything alloy,into a shiney master piece, :y:

you can do metal as well but its not as good as alloy,

 

 

pretty much a poor mans chrome haha

 

 

so heres the alternator that i just pulled of the engine,have a good look at it,

sorry bout the quailty of pics my crap as camera phone is all i have at the moment,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

see all that yuky corosion and rusty crusty crud,disgusting haha actualy when i got it off

some how it was full of dirt??? must have been learning over in the junk yard or something ,

 

don't worry i got rid of the dirt :P

[JDM55]

so the basic process with polishing (this is how i do it any way)

goes a little like this::::

 

you would start off with a fairly ruff grade of sand paper,now the first grade can vary depending on what it is your sanding and the condition of the item and if its resonably smooth or realy ruff,ie

if its reasonably smooth with out much grain you mite use say 320#

or if its realy realy corse and grainly you mite start with say 60#

it all depends on what it is your polishing and what sort of overall look you want,

 

so you got your starting gritt,just for agument sake I'm going to use 80# on this alternator to start with,

80# is corse enough to cut down thru the molding marks and ridges left from when it was produced in the factory, you can leave these but if you want a realy good over all look its best to knock them back the same as the rest and get it realy smooth,

 

from there,you just work your way thru the grades ,if you want to do it unbelieveable ,then you would do every grade, if you want a quick job you can skip 2 grades in between ,

 

when you sand with each grade of paper you want to be realy consistant, and even,by this i mean ,say you start with 80 # then move on to 120# ,you would do the same amount of sanding with the 120 that you did with the 80,already can see this is a very slow process doing it this way, but ive done it a few times on various things and it realy does work well,

 

you want to get out all the sanding marks of the 80 with the 120 before you move on to the next gritt, that part is very important if you want it to look like chrome,then from there move to the next grit,lets say 180# same again here, sand the whole thing exactly the same if not more than you did with the 120 gritt,this way your always moving up the grades and removing all the previous grades scratches, make sence????????

 

ok will I'm not the best at explaining things so i let the pics show what i mean,,

 

 

 

so here ive striped apart the alt,got all the parts out and I'm left with 2 shells ,thats the parts I'm going to polish,the front housing and the rear housing ,

 

so starting with 80# dry sand paper on a air sander ,i hit the hole thing the best that i could,

(keeping in mind the shape and little gaps on this alt ,most likely wont turn out as good as say a 4k alt that has very solid sides and not so many holes and fiddley bits ))

non the less, sanded the hole thing with 80 and then went over the hole thing by hand with 80 again to get the hard areas,

you can use things like a drill bit with sand paper rolled around it or a nail or things like that to slide into holes , and hard to reach areas, if your pimp then you may have several dremel fittings with the appropriate grades of paper to help with these hard areas,

the key being to complete the 80 before moving on to the next grade and not being a slack ass, thats the hard bit :no:

Edited September 13, 2010 by JDM55

[JDM55]

 

you can see here how the rusty corosion is just about all gone and your left with raw alloy to work on,

 

 

 

now check this shell half out,a lot more complicated than the front one,but again using the same process,

ie air sander or electric first(realy help) then going over by hand ,getting the hard parts,maybe using a dremel for the realy small gaps can help too,

 

 

 

ahh love the look of raw alloy , :happy:

[JDM55]

so a basic run down of the grades for those who don't know would go something like this::

 

80# very ruff and good for removing mold lines with out doing to much damage

 

120#

 

180# also a good starting grade for things that are say maybe flat with out mold lines or grain

 

240#

 

320#

 

500#

 

600 wet, ::::::

 

this is where you would introduce using water with the sanding ,by this stage scratches are getting very fine and you want to keep the item very clean while sanding , even a small piece of metal or grit sliding over the surface of what your been sanding can leave a nasty scratch causing you to have to back up thru the grades in that area to remove that scratch, so heaps of water and clean sand paper are important here,

 

800# wet

 

1000# wet

 

1200# wet

 

1500# wet

 

 

thats the basic run down if you wanted to do a realy nice job and take the time to sand thru all the grades,

 

ive also found a litle trick for cheating ,that is around the 600-800 grade mark you could introduce red scotch brite, which is much more flexable than sand paper and makes getting into hard shapes alot easyer,

 

i also developed that trick one step further and cut scotch brite up into disks and then would bolt 3 disks together and stick them on a drill, this way i could mow down that section alot quicker and get into alot more areas that the sand paper would other wise struggle to reach,,,,

Edited September 13, 2010 by JDM55

[e70van]

nice build up man, didn't realize you had one on the site! will be a nice ride with the sr20 in there ;)

 

Have you looked at getting arp flywheel bolts? they are cheaper than factory bolts and re-usable.if a few of the old bolts look abit iffy it will pay to replace them. Don't want the flywheel coming off :P

 

these guys sell ARP bolts.

http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp?CatID=0&SubCatID=0&priorCatID=0&PrdGrpID=2615

 

this thread will explain what part number you need: :)

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=415326

[JDM55]

nice build up man, didn't realize you had one on the site! will be a nice ride with the sr20 in there ;)

 

Have you looked at getting arp flywheel bolts? they are cheaper than factory bolts and re-usable.if a few of the old bolts look abit iffy it will pay to replace them. Don't want the flywheel coming off :P

 

these guys sell ARP bolts.

http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp?CatID=0&SubCatID=0&priorCatID=0&PrdGrpID=2615

 

this thread will explain what part number you need: :)

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=415326

 

 

 

awww yeah very helpful there mate ,thanks definatley look into those ,yeah probably better to replace them i think too, probably would get away with them but who knows if there still as strong as they once were,and yeah fly wheel chopping my legs off isnt my idea of a rip roaring good time :hmm:

Edited September 13, 2010 by JDM55

[JDM55]

 

here ive moved to the vice ,makes life a little easyer when sanding for long periods,

 

this is at about 180#/240# stage

 

[JDM55]

this is what i was meaning when i was talking about the scotch brite,

cut it up into disks and attach a couple to a bolt and create a mop sort

of thing to go on the drill,works realy well for tight areas,,,