Hey, I have recently replaced a worn out intake/exhaust manifold gasket on my 4k. Unfortunately there is still a leak coming from here. I know now that I didn't really do it as good as I could have and this time I want to do it properly so I don't have to do it again because it's an extremely frustrating job to do (well it was for me). I have extractors and have read that they often don't line up perfectly this could be a factor. Also used a 2pc gasket, which could also be a factor. And I didn't use any gasket sealant of any type. And I struggled to access the bolts to tighten them up properly. so...

 

 

1. Where can I get a 1pc gasket?

 

2. Would using 2 gaskets with lots of sealant help?

 

3. What is the best tool/method to access the bolts, especially on the bottom side of the manifolds? There must be a better way!!

 

4. Any other tips for doing this job?

 

 

Thanks heaps for your time.

 

Cheers

 

Chris

I can't answer all questions but I'll chip in my two cents:

 

1. Not sure, I'd like to know (tried a normal car store? Supercheap/Repco etc?), but I got inlet/exhaust gaskets with an ACL MonoTorque head gasket set, RRP $50ish.

 

2. No, one good gasket is better than two - less places to leak from. Multiple gaskets should only be used to space things out, or in cases of extreme surface warping where machining is not an option.

 

3. I have a Repco socket set, which has three different size extensions, and a fairly compact ratchet. Whacking the socket on the end of the right size extension worked wonders. It's close, but I had no trouble in the end.

 

4. Not really besides point 3.. Do it right, do it once, and don't try it in extreme weather, on a hot engine or whilst in a hurry! :)

Search function is your friend-

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=27374

 

Gaskets are $10.

 

Make sure the faces are flat and clean, the bolt holes clean, deep enough and oiled.

1. Where can I get a 1pc gasket?

Permatex E38 I think, it's probably in altezzaclubs post. Go down to Motor Traders at Norwood, on Beulah Rd. They can defintely get them, that's where I got mine.

 

2. Would using 2 gaskets with lots of sealant help?

No.

 

3. What is the best tool/method to access the bolts, especially on the bottom side of the manifolds? There must be a better way!!

Honestly, this job isn't that hard; an open ended ring spanner and a 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive socket site will be fine. Once you've done this job a few times you'll be amazed at how you used to complain about how hard it is.

 

4. Any other tips for doing this job?

Yes. Next time, get a vernier caliper or an accurate ruler and measure all the flanges on your manifolds (as in measure each bolt location on each flange). I don't gamble but I'd place a bet that your extractor flange is thinner than your inlet manifold flange and that's why you're getting the leaks.

Permaseal EM30. :)

 

As for #3, you should eb able to use a 14mm socket on a 20-25cm long extension bar and get them through the manifolds spinning the ratchet next to the strut tower.

Thanks for the info. I did do a search and I found some info on it but couldn't find anywhere that sells this 1pc gasket but cheers for the part number and shop to go to, thats where i'll go. :) Also my socket set only has one extension and it didn't really help which meant it was very tricky.. I'll have to grab a different set or try and borrow one..

 

And yes philby you are right the extractor flange is a little bit smaller than the inlet manifold, exactly the same as in altezzaclubs thread http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=37696 labeled 'B'

 

"I'll have to pack the thinner one of the manifolds or it will not be clamped tight" is the only explanation I could find as to how I could solve this..

 

Could you be a little more specific, what exactly did you use to "pack the thinner one"?

 

CHEERS

nah, just do what I did, file down the Aluminium inlet manifold to the thickness of the extractor flange, it's easy to file, just take your time and get it nice and flat and smooth.

OK, will do cheers for the help, look forward to having a non-ticking engine again :)

i had this manifold thickness problem. tempory fix was find washers the right thickness to take up the gap.. cut em in half and use the halves on the thinner flange. PITA to get em all in without em falling out though.

 

a 3/8 ratchet with long extension and 14mm tube socket does the trick. there are gaps in the manifold so extension fits thru.

helps to loosen the 3 hotbox bolts under the carb so that the two manifolds can level out on the head. don't break hotbox bolts!

 

also genuine toyota 3layer steel gasket. cost $nz33.75 when i bought one few months back. cheaper than the genuine two piece graphite ones. those blue paper ones are crap.. don't bother.

 

part number 17172-13050 from kr42 7k *carby* engine

image taken from sheldons car thread (blown5k) on club-k

 

Edited February 22, 201016 yr by AE25

PITA to get em all in without em falling out though.

 

Glue them on!

 

I've braized them onto the full washer before, so half of it was thicker.

 

 

 

**Although now I think about it I did what Philbey suggested above and files the alloy down to match as it was only a small amount thicker.

Edited February 22, 201016 yr by altezzaclub

Aluminum is almost too easy to file. It took me all of about 10 minutes to file a manifold down a couple of mm each ear.