AE25

Hopefully some being made from klassicfab soon. says they are in the pipeline

It grows on you. looks to be an evolution of the ke11 styling. Unfortunately most of the front end is different to the same year 70-71 ke2 corolla. Grill mounts don't match. Sprinter corners don't have the notch to clear the corolla headlight surrounds. The sprinter headlight chrome rings are deeper than other ke2. Under grill trim seems unique. I'm yet to confirm if parts are identical to corolla for the cnr indicator lense, lower valence, bumper and front indicators.

Yes they differ. The TE stub axle is larger similar to all the other TE strut and ae86. TE has 85mm bolt spacing to the steering knuckle compared to 87mm for the KE3. i havent compared directly as ive never touched the TE strut. But i would assume they also run a stiffer spring due to heavier driveline and quite possibly the bigger diameter strut tube 51mm od instead of the 48mm od. Both are 4x4.5" wheel stud pattern.

Anything is possible but havent personally seen done on a 6" diff. Generally if youve got enough power to require better stoppers you'll likely need a bigger diff anyway. disks aren't ideal on a single row axle bearing. Doesnt stop people doing it though. a worn bearing can pump the pads away from the disk giving more pedal travel before rear braking works. All oem toyota live axle disk brakes have a double row ball bearing on the axle. Smallest toyota disk rear is the 6.7" T code in ae86, te71, ma45. Ke2 U code is 50mm from housing to wheel mounting face on the drum. Ke3 U code is more like 60mm. http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/stud-conversion.htm

1970 ke25 te25 sprinter SL / delux. Just putting it out there. Looking for owners or parts collectors to network with, share info/parts etc. I've had an interest in this particular model since acquiring a bonnet in the noughties. So have been on the hunt for printed media, memorabilia and the rest of the front end parts to complete a ke2 nose swap. There's only one original car here in NZ. A red ke25 sl in southland. Easiest way to contact me via toycrazy.net or fb mark roads http://www.toyota.co.jp/jpn/company/history/75years/vehicle_lineage/catalog/60008708/html5m.html#page=15

cheers, man i miss having a thrash! couple more ke70 3tgte vids below for ya with a bit of a cameo. Family has happened unfortunately for the corolla's. but little by little, getting new shed fitted out, finding bits and peices required for the various builds. Currently knocking together a rotiseree for the hardtop 🙂

Hi max, I've replied to your PM. Ive yet to finish the IRS setup. previous owner Alec posted pics of the process on FB

The ke70 heart donor circa 2012. (one of my favourite pics) I don't have many engine bay pics, this from 2011. Parts need a good tidy up before transferring to the te71 as it's a bit hori. headlight out for extra psshhht. finishing off some tyres...

Hey, Mark here from NZ. I have a new project which i thought would interest some rolla people. A bit of back story... So i've had a ke70 1.3 SR coupe (jdm fastback 4k auto, 6" diff) since 2001 which was a daily + drift hack for many years running a 3tgte, w57 and kaaz 7.5" 2way in it's final guise (2013). Probably have seen that on the interwebs via club-k or garage3tc/3tcgarage and other forums or my website toycrazy.net and youtube user toycrazynz. It has succumbed to cancer finally because it wasn't always garaged (my bad). rust in the seams, sills, not alot holding the rear 1/4's and tail gate on. So I'm re shelling it. The last few years i've been busy with property renovations, building a new shed, got married etc so car play was on hold. Took a while to find but, have sourced a TE71 hardtop shell suitable to continue on with some track duties and get back into drift. Unfortunately it's an unfinished project but not out of my abilities. Will just take longer. The car is a jdm 1981 TE71 GT Sprinter hardtop. Pics from previous owner Alec on his new wheels at the time. Somewhat rare these days to see one with the 'OK computer' option. The early spec Sprinter front end had been exchanged to early corolla by a previous owner. The project didn't come with the front trim though, or tail lights. Or the original 2tgeu & t50. Alec stripped it to a bare shell with a bunch of mates, and were converting the whole suspension and drivetrain to ta63 GT-T Carina. They got as far as mounting up the F code IRS and had it back on it's wheels. There's a little work to get that finished off. Pic from previous conversion progress. He also built a half cage which is a bonus. The car came with a bunch of ta63 front suspension too but that won't be going in. It's also been media blasted to unhide any rust that an 80's corolla was bound to have! Some showing on the A pillars, lower rad support, rear wheel arches and some small areas. Nothing a session with the TIG can't fix. So this is how it sits currently awaiting further work. Here's hoping sooner rather than later.. The goal: Complete the IRS conversion, fit an LSD. Patch all rust, panel and paint it back to looking externally stock with facelift corolla front swap. (vinyl side stripe, wing mirrors etc). Swap over the 3tgte running gear from the ke70, install the ae86 BC BR Gold front coilovers as well as the modified crossmembers and rack steering. Find out if an original efi fuel tank will fit back in or find alternative solution. mount pump, tweak fuel lines and install rest of efi systems. Finish the 3" exhaust which stopped at the diff previously. Re fit the interior from front seats forwards. Get it back together. Do skids

suspension is not suitable. Someone with an ae82 might like it. brake calipers could possibly be adapted with custom mounts and rwd disks. Take all the wiring if you plan to use the std efi system including the fuel pump. You'll figure out what you need of the engine stuff if you follow a guide/tutorial of how to convert it to rwd. I did a 4age 16v into ke25 and silvertop 20v into ae82 so I'm sure i can assist with the hard questions.

sorry to hear you're having a hard time. talking to people about it does help. as does getting out and exercising and eating healthy. Seems i've been through alot of what you're doing now. I fitted an ae101 silvertop 20v but the conversion will be much the same. I found the ae101 loom is too short to fit through the original 82 firewall hole and be able to mount the ecu behind the center console. pity ae82.net went down as i had a project thread on there.. I have one on toyspeed if you are registered. From memory there's only one wire needed to go from the dash to ecu, and that was to sense car speed. The 20v didn't reach full rpm unless ecu saw a speed signal. 500rpm lower rpm limiter otherwise. The ae82 didn't have the correct signal from the speedo but i modified the tinkerbell mechanism to give an on-off pulse when car moving and seems to work. If the new gearbox has an electronic speedo sender, swap it for the ae82 mechanical one so that the original speedo works. but if the diff ratio is different.. I can't remember if that affects the accuracy of the speedo and if the speedo drive gear has ratio's to match the diff like a rwd speedo. I have an original ae82 dash and didn't have to change anything on it to run the new engine. just wire in the appropriate wires for tacho, engine temp, charge lamp etc into the ae82 loom. ae101 had same mounts on the gearbox, so i used ae82 rubbers on the ae101 C52 and it bolted in. Used the ae101 axles because they are equal length and apparently reduces torque steer. Be careful if wanting to use ae92 mounts on the gearbox end, as some of them have different bolt position on the box. the rear brakes are a bit of a dick. can't directly swap brake parts onto ae82 strut. but it can be done with ae93 struts and a mix n match of disk brake parts (not drum). If you want a parts list of what fits and what doesn't I could dig this up. ae82 have a slightly larger ball joint so ae101 front strut upright doesn't swap directly. the non-superstrut ae101 front brakes can be swapped onto ae82 strut. Front brake backing plates need to be swapped first so consider this before fitting the axles etc. use ae82 brake hoses. my toyspeed thread is here. heap of brake swap info. need to be a registered member to view it. toyspeed ae82 20v conversion

Sorry i hadent clicked all the links. I'm sure the autostore or shock shop you're buying from will be able to confirm the correct sizing. if not, walk away.

The only direct swap k50 is from a kp61 starlet. The shifter comes out in the correct spot on a ke2/3 and the bolt spacing on the rubber mount the same. ke7 k50 means youll need to cut the tunnel back to clear the shifter and slot the mount bolt holes. (Although I may be confusing myself with t50 mounts) If you can source the tail housing and shifter from a kp61 it will swap onto the ke7 box.

Euro kp61 had larger brakes 225mm? but I believe the rest of the world had the same 200mm disk in kp's. so no point swapping the lot. Kp6 caliper fits direct to the strut anyway whereas ke has backing plates. when I did the kp hub conversion I tried to use the kp disk but the inner step on the disk was a mm or two larger and interferred with the ke2 caliper. this couldve been turned down smaller and may have been a manufacturing difference from a different brand disk. dunno. I kept the ke2 disk. Done. Ke3 has a larger I.D. on the inner bearing. Swap the inner bearing and seal to a ke2 or kp6 one and ke3 hub will fit ke2 strut.

Did this go any further? Poor fuel on a hot day with an engine breathing heavily on pcv fumes revving out around a corner and running out of fuel... who knows. pistons can crack if detonation occurs or an overheat.. my old 5k was pinging daily on a concoction of blowby fumes and dodgy ignition heh. Soo have you got a recirculating bypass valve planned for that blow thru setup? Or are you wanting to cook the charger vane coating off with 20psi of deceleration boost :)

Very generalised question there. all rwd corollas after the e2 series had improvements made so usually there will be some benefit to changing to later gear. 4x114.3 (4.5") stud pattern is one benefit as was found on the te2 versions. bigger fr disk brakes from the ke3 is a relatively easy swap. otherwise different struts and steering knuckles is the most common id say. te2 steering knuckes with vented ae86 strut/disk is a good upgrade with a heap of aftermarket support for suspension and brake upgrades to suit. ae86 p/s knuckles can otherwise be used with ball joint collars if te2 knuckles are unobtainium.

Another option I have read about is AW11 rear inserts which aparently are the smaller diameter (as compared to the larger diameter ae86/ae92 size). used as a short stoke shock youll need to make a spacer if putting into std housing. Or shorten the housing.

How did you go? I can confirm the 1G series of reduction starters work on the T engines (with the more common wide bolt spacing). The 3tgte came standard with a reduction starter which is same style as the 1ge-u 1gge 1ggte 1ggze one. There is a slight difference in the position of the solenoid and sometimes the wiring connection point but not enough to affect using it. We often used the gx61/gx71 1geu starter as they were quite common at wreckers. One thing to watch for is if you have a modified exhaust that is closer to the engine it may be difficult to install from the top or may even contact the starter. Always put a heat shield over the starter motor as its common issue to overheat the internals from proximity of the exhaust manifold.

intake all depends on the power you intend to make. you could get lucky and find a 3t-eu intake system which is the only oem efi manifold that will bolt on to the pushrod 3t head. but also quite rare. Another option is import or make an adaptor for 2tgeu intake. the port spacing is the same but the bolt pattern is not hence the adaptor. this is a better option for power imo. otherwise its a custom fabricated manifold which can be bought from the states. should be able to find more info on www.3tcgarage.com front springs will depend on the standard size as theres a few different spring diameters on the e7 corolla. are you wanting a bolt in spring or don't mind a coilover system which will give you options for spring rates and ride height? ae86 springs might fit but youll need to confirm sizing

also if its a 5k-j or 5k-u it will likely have electronic ignition. This is good as theres no points to wear out. but make sure to get the other end of the plug that connects to the coil otherwise you'll have to make the wiring for it. if the engine wont fire up, try swapping the two wires on the coil as it only works one way. there's two types of electronic ignition used. internal or external ignitor. internal can be identified with two black plastic caps inside the distributor and can be connected direct to the coil. external needs an external ignitor so make sure to get that with the engine if the distributor has one black plastic cap inside it.

the 5k is the easiest bolt in engine with a noticeable increase in power from the 3k and still feels revvy. the 7k has more torque but needs more work due to exhaust height and sump clearance. must use ke2 rubber mounts as theyre different to later k engines. if that is the emissions version 5k-c, 5k-j or 5k-u you'll find unless you've got all the vacuum hoses complete and connected correctly it wont run as well as it should. I find the vacuum operated secondary flap feels hesitant even when working correctly. look for a std 5k carb which has the mechanical secondary flap and none of the birds nest of vacuum hoses. if you use the std 3k carb it will run but could be running lean and definitely wont make the same power as a 5k carb due to smaller venturi. an adapter plate and downdraft weber is an option too which can be tuned to suit. If you have the original ke2 throttle cable you may need to mix and match the cable brackets to hold it in place and attach to carb. the later k carbs don't have the ball joint connection on the end like an early ke2 cable. from memory I used the km36 van 4-2-1 5k manifold which does not match the ke2 system or the std corolla 4-2-1 manifold as the two port secondary flange has a different bolt pattern. I made do with what I had and made my own flange and secondaries and a 1.3/4" exhaust system. thermostat outlet can sometimes point the other way depending on radiator top hose position. mix and match to suit. the ke20 heater hoses come out of the thermostat housing in a different place so use the ke2 thermostat housing if want to keep it std. the later housings often have an electrictric fan switch which can be useful if you don't want to keep the mechanical fan. the ke2 fan probably wont bolt on to the later water pumps due to spigot size and bolt pattern on the pump flange. either swap to ke2 water pump or use the later viscous hub style mechanical fan with trimmed fan blades or convert to elec fan. if it had a g52 or l40 gearbox then you'll need a different clutch plate to match your k40 gearbox. you may find that the vans 200mm clutch pressure plate fouls on the k box too. so test it fits first if wanting to keep the larger clutch. otherwise use a 3k/4k flywheel and clutch but consider getting a heavy duty pressure plate since increasing power output. Basically mix and match parts to make it work. I have some reading material on my car site www.toycrazy.net in 'our cars'. the yellow ke26 5k project

yea toyota lego. 4a/7a mounting points I'm assuming are much the same so try out the complete 4a mounts?

the sr20det or de+t is one of the better bang for buck conversions for a rwd 4cyl turbo. And with a huge aftermarket parts market it's a great choice. Realise tho that your gearbox, diff, driveshaft, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, efi and fuel systems all need upgrading to match the increased power. I went through all this building a ke70 drifter with 3t-gte and using all toyota parts it's a bit of a mission and expense. and that was a decade ago.

have you decided whether to go blow through or suck through? id suggest use the oem 7k carby mls manifold gasket. A way to keep internals in one piece is make sure it doesn't lean out. A wideband oxy meter will be useful like the innovate motorsports ones so you can keep eye on air/fuel ratios.. or make sure its rich enough whilst driving on boost. and can datalog with them and check ratios on a laptop

has S-5 and SR-5 add ons http://oldcorollas.com/#!documentation/factory-specs-123