AE25

i grabbed some toyota 4stud van rims and got a wheel shop to weld in 2" to the outside lip. they do this to dirt track cars etc. so it went from a 14x5.5 to a 14x7.5 fit the ke70 perfect! nice and deep. just not road certified or anything heh

off same body shape ke70 yes.. but are the coupe, hardtop and liftback the same size???!! the dash are wider on those just listed so wouldn't just assume windscreens same too

heya. the internals from a 3tc can be used in a 3tgte. the block's are basically the same except 3tgt has a turbo oil return hole and knock sensor in the block. so buy forgies and rods for a 3tc and use them. the american 3tc have full counterweight cranks like the 3tgte do. the bottom chain and tensioner are same.. but top dohc tensioner, chain and chain guides need to be bought from toyota or donated from a 2tg(eu) or 3tgte. 18rgeu also shares alot of the dohc timing gear. the chain guides are the most expensive.. and take it easy with the tensioner hanging out of the head under the dizzy.. if that gets a fair knock it'll snap off. head and exhaust gaskets are same size as 2tg. intake is much different. bellhousings for W55 come on any 3tgte (ta63 celica GT-T, carina GT-T and tt142 corona GT-T). and also 3teu (pushrod) ta63 celica and carina. The G series is referring to 6cyl 2ltr 1GEU, 1GGE, 1ggte, 1ggze engines.. the only difference being clutch is on exhaust side of a 3t and is missing one bolt on intake side of engine. i've yet to see a toyota van G series gearbox behind a 13T engine (I'm looking)... they always have the L20 steel case box which will fit a steel case W50 5speed. (so could be a cheaper option than genuine 3tgte bell with w58). can also get 3t-w50 bellhousings from pre 1981 coronas and celicas like the tt132 and ta45. the alloy w55/w58 etc are stronger and easier to find if you can afford it. ok too much writing already. as to power.. if i were aiming for 350rwhp... ditch everything except the bare engine.. so we're talking aftermarket ecu, bigger injectors, bigger turbo, front mount, upgraded fuel system, bigger exhaust, w58 gearbox, HD clutch, forgies, new bearings, bigger throttle body.. um yeah something like that. and dyno tuning! i read on toyota3tc.com that the 3tgte rods bend at 400hp so prob good idea to install stronger rods whilst engine apart. i wrote the 3tgte info page on toycrazy.net so feel free to email me any info i can add to it :S cat just farted on my lap so i gotta go -mark

have you checked out this site http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/stepho/crllaprd.htm

1983 is probly either a tt132 or tt141. if it has a 3t then it either has a w50 or 22spline t50. (or 4speed). being an '83 i'd bet its the t50. diff will be a T series which from memory the tt132 is 1415mm wide and the tt141 around 1440mm wide. te71 are around 1400mm wide so the tt132 diff is an option but mounts are wider on the top, spring perches are smaller diameter and wider apart, diff mount bolts are fatter (19mm instead of 17mm head) and panhard rod in different spot. tt132 have same mounts as ra45/ma45 celica if thats any help. tt132 wagon have leaf spring and not hard to convert to ke70 wagon :S

2wd usually have the E series 4WD toyota vans like the townace, liteace and masterace have an F series in the rear and T series IFS in the front. and yes the front T series crown and pinion swap across to a te71 diff T series diff but the van center has the late model splines so can only use that if you got kouki ae86 axles or running in a 1986 rwd celica/carina. 4.3 4.55 and 4.77 can be found in the vans :S

had a nissan march Super Turbo come into pickapart. (cheers luke for the heads up) interestingly they use a bypass butterfly operated by a diaphragm and a stopper solenoid which I'm assuming to keep the bypass open 1/4 way between gear changes. (imo much better system than the hks popper valve). engine bay had already been pulled to bits.. but i'd be assuming it was setup as follows... the two air lines on the diaphragm fit before and after the bypass butterfly. the gear change solenoid stops the bybass completely closing so that airflow thru the intercooler and inlet piping does not suddenly halt or change direction (rather it exits via a BOV before the throttle(s) for gear changes. who knows? this highlights a good point when setting up a bypass to have it partially open between gearchanges. an easy way to set this up would be to add a second diaphragm that holds the valve at 1/4 open or so, and connected to inlet plenum with a restrictor needle valve and one way valve in parallel so it takes a few seconds of vacuum to engage (but returns immediately) to return bypass valve to fully closed position (for idle and supercharger on modes). a separate recirculating valve is used on the SC for idle and part throttle. or even use another diaphragm on the bypass for recirculating duties? air direction would be reversed so could cause unknown issues? also found a uk forum with quite a bit of info on the nissan Super Turbo (ST) http://www.micra.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=79

you can do the 2tc block, but you'll have to swap the cam and cam bearing tube things and all the dohc timing gears. pretty much strip the 2tc block to bare bones and install the TG gear

that green coopers te37/ke35 rocks my boat! heres my ke70 coupe

the std gze setup will turn the charger off at idle and low load situations like decelleration or cruising which is controlled by the ecu and a few sensors. if you change to aftermarket ecu the supercharger clutch relay needs to be made into a separate control. or just run it constantly. it depends how you set it up. not that i've done it but know others that have.. the factory gze ecu should be well tuned for all running circumstances. and it seems to work fine with turbo so long as you don't go over the boost limit where it would cut out from factory. with aftermarket ecu its a different story. an aftermarket ecu usually only gets tuned for the engine its running on. the tuner will have to guesstimate the settings outside of where it would usually run on the dyno in the case it does run differently after being tuned. so say it's tuned for 10psi up to 7500rpm and you then go put a turbo on it and run 15psi up to 8000rpm.. you'll be hoping like hell the ecu has accurate enough settings on the ecu map to cover the extra boost and rpm range. and yes there will be a difference in efficiency between a turbo and supercharger.. the turbo will give more back pressure but won't put extra load on the crank like the s/c so there will be a differnce in air/fuel ratios.. how much depends on the engine and the turbo/supercharger. its probably a negligible amount? tho if the engine is tuned for absolute maximum power and you go do something that will require more fuel.. expect it to blow up! no engine is the same so for an accurate tune.. its best to get it dyno'd if you change the turbo or make any major changes to the engine. also the engine should be tuned with a range of pressures from full vacuum for deceleration and idle, to full boost. an engine will experience all of these as it comes on and off boost at different revs or throttle position. in your case.. i wouldnt think the idle or light boost will be a problem.. but i personally wouldn't use full throttle with aftermarket ecu until the ecu mapping has been checked for the turbo. hope that helps

i know of one ae85 in NZ that has a 2tgeu installed. i don't see the point.. less power, heavier, older. get a 4age. this might be of some help... putting a 2tg into ke70/ae70 http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/KE70-2tgeu.htm

acl makes the gasket sets and bearings. supercheap auto is probably a cheaper place to buy them (they are over here anyways). i found this online catalogue so you you could find the part numbers you need then go to your supplier and make the order http://qiklink.acl.co.nz/Modules/Catalog/I...YOTA&pg=all the conversion set usually has the bottom end gaskets and seals :yes: if you're after cheap made stuff we buy from a place called segedins truck and auto in NZ. it cost me around $200 in parts to fully rebuild a 4k. some parts came from japan, some from taiwan, some acl. http://staparts.co.nz permaseal is another aussie brand that may have the gaskets you're after? otherwise try www.toyota3tc.com in the automotive shops sales and services forum. BRD racing etc

can only use 4age bellhousing from ae86, at141 or aa63 for a t50. or ae70/ae85 k50 box which is not as strong. the redtop16v smallport and silvertop 20v i believe have the 215mm flywheel and clutch. the s/t clutch i have here fits the t50 oil doesn't go into the fuel rail. theres separate air ports in the throttle bodies which attach to the pcv valve on the cam cover and also the fuel regulator, throttle stop, brake booster and iscv (idle speed control valve). requardless if they filled with oil, it's a good idea to clean them anyway as they're known to cause problem after alot of use as they slowly build up with gunk.

do 7a's come in carby form? id find that out. if not.. maybe find out if the 7a head have same port size and bolt pattern as the 4a then just swap intake manifold and carb over. but other things to research is clutch size.. will it fit your gearbox or does it need swapping.

yes different plug on the ecu therefor different wiring. read on net that theres a 5hp? loss in power with auto ecu but whether thats true or not who knows. you can use either one with manual.. just wire it up correctly.

did 15.7 in my ke25 with clapped out std bluetop 4age, pod and exhaust, 185.60.13's and open diff. did 14.59 in my ke70 with std 3tgte, pod and exhaust, 195.50.15's and locked diff aiming for a high 11-mid 12 with the new motor in ke25

this has got to be the best yet (4agzte) although i'd get pretty annoyed with the hissing bov's all the time (running s/c to atmosphere instead of recirculating it off throttle)

hi mark i like your aspirations.. something i can really relate too! :cool: i hope you get this beasty finished! just some advice.. spend as little time and money on the 'daily' car, every distraction or expense is just going to extend the project... ie my ke25 4agte project has been sitting down behind all the other 'projects' for the last 7 years 8/ yet is what I'm most enthused to get completed! As to setting up diffs and what turbo to run etc.. talk to people in the field of racing... head down to your local drag strip and check out what people are running... see for yourself which setup's are doing the times. talk to anyone running that particular turbo in a 4agte and get first hand experience on what you're getting yourself into. getting tips from forums is all well and good.. but often this info is regurgitated from other posts and by people who haven't done what they preach. (no offence to anyone here.. forums do have alot of experienced people too.. I'm just saying don't take everything you read as fact!). also, quoting big power numbers and fast times is only going to attract criticism. you don't often hear good drag racers gloating out how fast they're going to go, until they've accomplished it. we've seen it all before (not that i know your age).. young guy gets dream car and either does too much to it that it never gets completed, (parts it out to recover costs or sells the lot) or writes the thing off coz they got too fast too quick. don't be too put off by the remarks.. the start of this thread seemed this way and everyone's jumped on the bandwagon to put things in perspective. my rant aside.. it now looks like you've been doing your research and getting some good advice so keep it up! The other day was talking to a friend that races a corolla (3tgt te71).. and one of the other teams campaigns a 4agte and interestingly said that theirs will run all day long at 350rwhp, above this they've been having problems with splitting bores.. but take into consideration that this is endurance track racing.. whereas the odd street sprint at 450rwhp is not so taxing on an engine. here's some inspiration for ya.. some A series i've been keeping track of.. backyarder's ae82 20v 4agte.. haven't seen a full thread on it but come across engine pics and specs on toymods theres a few vids on youtube like these 300+kw 4agte's mk2 cortina on toymods (need to register) http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13990 barry mannon aka bazda '0GRIP' 7agte 20v ae92 330fwkw! has run 10.88sec 1/4 cardomain blog http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2131056 toyspeed blog (need to register) http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=59730 at the strip around the race track L0TOY ke30 4agte (his name evades me arg) running stock 4agze with t3/t4 of sorts and Link ecu.. has pulled 11.3's with supra box, hilux diff and slicks etc youtube L0TOY ke30 running against 0GRIP ae92 matt dunn's 7agte 20v ke70 toyspeed blog (must register first) http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=59733 around the track and this is just freakin cool.. something along the lines of my project

2zzge is superior for performance over the 1zzfe even though they're similar capacity. just look at some part comparison pics and specs and you can tell it straight away. 1zzfe if your into economy 8/ show us some proof of an all alloy 3sge.. this i got to see :cool: also as far as I'm aware.. gen4 is redtop single beams, gen5 is dual beams (altezza)

what engine has the celica got? for BT 20v, why not use the std blacktop exhaust manifold? they're tube steel from factory and you won't gain much from going to aftermarket extractors. the money could be better spent elsewhere can you put your location in your profile?!

bigger pics look nicer :jamie:

what weaknesses???? please do tell

no reason you couldnt put on the n/a intake manifold, (use whatever n/a intake suits the ports.. smallport or bigport etc) a low compression engine won't be as good as a perky factory n/a 4age. gze's love boost

how big do you want to go? using the std strut and steering arm will keep suspension geometry unaffected compared to swapping in bigger struts. dba (disk brakes australia) have an online pdf catalogue with all the sizes of disks.. just need to have a long look through it and see what can be adapted to the back of your hub or sit on top of the front. then fint a suitable caliper the correct width to suit the disk. then make a custom mount for it. if you haven't done already.. convert your wheel stud pattern to 4x114.3 which is much more common than 4x110. can do this using kp61 front hubs swapped in keeping the std ke25 disk. then get rear axles redrilled or can modify ke3# axles to fit, remove 4-5mm off end of splines and use ke3# drums on top of ke25 internals. you'll have a better selection of disks and wheels for your car where in NZ are you?

turbo the 1uz for best power i still would pref the 1jz in most cars.. they're strong as well