AE25

as to corner trims. i believe there be 4 different corolla styles. two types with indicators and two without. the 4 grills on left have indicator corners. the late type don't have indicators.. as they're on the guard. most common would be the late type ke20/26 non indicator corner

theres 6 different corolla ke2 style grills that i've come across.. in those 6 there's 3 different mounting positions. also there is a pair of grills to each mounting position as in pic. two on left. two middle and two right are the matching pairs. early ke20/25/26 seem to have been fitted with the 4 styles on the left. late ke20/26 with the 'pointy front' bonnet had the one 2nd from right and only late ke25 has the far right. early jdm te27 have the plastic grill 2nd from left and late te27 grill on far right sprinter/trueno grills is another thing altogether. seen at least 3 variations of grill in web pics.

had any luck removing bearings? with the hub removed from the strut.. pick the inner seal out. the bearing should fall out and then the inner bearing shell needs to be tapped out with a soft metal pin punch .. brass, copper, aluminium etc.. there should be a small notch on the inside hole that the pin punch can sit into so it gets in behind the bearing shell. you need to tap them on opposite sides so they come out parrallel to the hub. putting the new bearings in requires you do not damage the shells in any way.. i usually grind the old shells that came out so they are slightly smaller in diameter and use them to push the new bearing shell in.

looking for pics of any ke20 ke25 ke26 te21 te27 te28 with a 4agze fitted of the clearance between sc12 supercharger outlet pipe and the chassis rail. any help much appreciated.. or if anyone knows someone that has completed the conversion and has the car still, i'd like to get in touch with them :dance:

baahahaha haa that YOKOHOMO sticker is a crack up.. I'm almost dying with laughter AWESOME! i've just read through everything for the first time and i must say I love how hardcore you do things yet in a rough kinda 'i-don't-give-a-shit' attitude. its great. I'm keeping track of how you go for sure! hey you wouldnt happen to know roy fordelsen and sigve in norway with the te71 coupes? also i think that if you plan on turboing the 4age or T engine that you swap to the w55/w57/w58 gearbox. there are 5 different shifter positions that come on the box and a couple are same/very close to where the t50 shifter is. i can give more info on that if you want it. i have a w55 in my ke70 and you would think it was made to fit. the diesel wagon ce71 has a w51 or w56 from the factory so the gearbox tunnel is designed to fit the supra box. also juha's ta64 celica pic that is on axle stands.. did you happen to get that from the makela auto tuning website? http://www.mat.fi/project1984toyotacelicaturbo.htm ive been trying to save pics but because it uses flash player i can't find a way to do it. do you know how? chur oh also those alloy wheels off the te72 also come on the 1980 era ta40 ra45 ma45 etc celica's. there's 13" and 14" ones available

Name: Mark Model: 1975 KE25 SR (NZ new) Driveline: 4AGE bigport, T50, rt40 diff 8bolt Suspension & Brakes: nolothaned but std Wheels & Tyres: Konig Rewind 15x7 graphite, bridgestone Grid3 175/50/15 Interior: Converted black interior Other: good for a 15.7sec 1/4 Well well plans. the driveline it has currently was whacked in whilst i was off work with a broken collarbone. drove it round for 6months till the wof ran out and have been storing it since (2001). in the mean time have been planning and collecting parts for the rest of the car. so in the build... starting from the back have bought an altezza torsen lsd which is going in a shortened down Fseries 7.5" housing with 10" solid disks. sway bar to be fitted and tramp bar and extra leaf etc. gearbox is a w57 with a home fab'd bellhousing. front struts are late nz ke70 wagon (similar or same as ae86 strut) with 10" vented dba disk conversion and custom caliper mounts etc. bought te27 steering arms to keep lock the same. engine is a blacktop 20v undergoing the twincharger treatment. so far have fitted the sc12 under the quads and sussing out the details of how it'll be setup. will be doing it in two stages, first to get it running on a lower boost with modified silvertop 20v internals.. will be concentrating on sorting out the operation of the twincharger and learning to tune via megasquirt ecu. once and hopefully when it is running smooth and reliable.. stage two is forged internals and prepping for the high boost, high hp engine along the lines of bazda's 20v turbs. but much left to do! for interior i've already swapped in the SL spec black interior and will be retrimming the seats to te27 style. dash will have the 3 gauges in heater panel but keeping the woodgrain. body wise i have to replace the panel under the heater vents so its a rather major bit of surgery. the car is very straight so worth doing. have bought some te27 replica flares from the philippines which need a little work and also a chin from rhett which could do with some strengthening. (thin fibreglass). the plan is not to do any major chassis modifications so that if i need to swap into another shell it won't be hard. the gearbox tunnel will need a couple of modifications for clearance on the W box and rear wheel arches mod for flares, also front panel with a couple holes for intercooler piping. theres more things I'm working on like rack conversion and pedal box/brake master mods but no point detailing till its done and proven to work! only started working on things again in the last month so it will be a while yet :dance: I'm aiming for 350-400hp at the fly woot

how did you get one with this conversion?

bazda's 7agte 20v... 10sec fwd ae92! sorry ninoavent but bollocks to anyone saying 7a block and crank are crap.. that may apply to high revving n/a engines only :dance:

you'll have more luck finding one in the South Island due to thier colder temps. i can name only a few coupes in auckland. back in the day the jdm te71 2tgeu were not uncommon.. problem is they rust out so badly in the rear 1/4 windows and boot that alot are now gone. i've personally stripped two :dance:

nope the Aitkens te27 GG43 was SOLD! we can only dream now http://creaitken.com/gg43/ i heard a story that one of the GG4#'s were in aussie. the 3rd in pieces in a shed

yep it is tight.. you have to modify the pipe that comes out of the head into the water pump for a start... but it will fit under there once thats done and you move the vacuum pipes under the throttles and make a new top mount for the charger. this is 'twincharger's one on the link in first post soo many ways possible to do it.. i'm tossing up wether to have the turbo outlet plumbed over the top/rear of engine into the charger or just have the charger non intercooled so it's plumbed into a normal turbo setup :cool: (chargers on opposite sides of engine) will be making up various design sketches soon...

konig make 15x7 and 14x7 both with 0p (zero offset). fits ke70 or ae86 nicely but need flares on ke2 or ke3 also a 40p offset available for fwd http://www.konigwheels.com/catalog_subcate...SCHOOL%20WHEELS in my opinion the rewinds look better than superlights.. bought some myself :cool:

http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/struts.html old post.. but that any help? in the 85mm bolt spacing category.... shortest ones to mention... te21/te27/te27 110mm (smaller ball joint) ae85/ae86 p/s 115mm te37?? maybe in here somewhere late ke70 wagon (maybe only nz spec?) 130mm ta22 130mm ae85/ae86 non manual steer 135mm

nooooooo keep it here :cool:

i say DO IT the std 4agze intake manifold is definately a restriction. we have an ae86 in NZ that runs high 13sec 1/4's with an s/c. it is now a silvertop 20v and supercharged, originally built as a drifter by tim aka tiny. pretty sure it still has stock 20v internals running 10psi. he's made custom inlet and V-mount intercooler etc. its awesome.. a supercharger running out of puff? how does that work.. the s/c is belt driven and is an air pump.. the higher you rev it, the more it pumps. free up the other restrictions on the inlet/exhaust and you'll be happy as. don't try run boost on a stock 20v ecu and internals.. it'll be short lived. his car specs here http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=54834

Ahh.. the beauty of a twincharger.. is having a smallish capacity engine that has effortless acceleration and feels like a larger engine due to the low end boost from a supercharger, yet has the ability to ram copious amounts of air into the engine for awesomeness and top end power from the turbo. YET be able to turn the s/c off for fuel efficient naturally aspirated motoring at cruise and idle :cool: I see this as a performance ideal we will see more of in the future as engine emissions and also engine capacities will be getting more and more restricted. i've been doing a bit of research into this as I'm seriously keen to build a 20v twincharger in particular myself. I would like anyone that has any decent links or info to add to this thread So, in my searches.. there have been three main twincharge concepts worth discussion. #1: compound boost. where a turbo blows into the SC without a bypass. the s/c compounds the incoming pressurised air via it's compression ratio so a larger total boost is seen. both chargers can be setup to run in their peak efficiency zones, and inlet manifold and exhaust pressure ratio can be tweaked, which gives better cylinder scavenging, better knock resistance, less residual heat etc. #2: Turbo into SC with a bypass. ie a sequential setup. The SC is there purely to get the turbo up to speed quicker, which then does all the work. #3: SC into Turbo with a bypass. again, SC is there to spool turbo quicker, and then SC is bypassed. Fensport bought an hks twincharged front cut and installed it in their project ae92 and are were modifying it. they had a diagram of it on their website (below). (unfortunately their site has not been updated in a while???) http://gama.main-hosting.com/~logabyte/twincharge1.html This would be the turbo into sc sequential setup. throttle before SC. diagram not by fensport. has anyone got ideas on control systems for SC switch on/off and controlling the bypass valve in a sequential setup? one solution (as 'twincharger' has done on his ae86) is use a one way valve as a bypass so that when the turbo out flows the s/c, the sc is switched off and the bypass flap opens to bypass the SC. The valve will not open by itself is the SC is running due to the compound effect as theoretically the valve will always have more pressure behind it than before. It will be tricky to get the SC to switch off at the right point and back on again. if not done right, then a definate drop in boost will occur at the switchover point. 'twinchargers' setup in ae86 (turbo on intake side) If doing a sequential system, it seems better to use a diaphragm operated poppet valve (wastegate style) or butterfly.. like the nissan march superturbo (have found a good source for one too, the toyota 2L-T diesel has one). this runs off vacuum so will likely require a replacement dual diaphragm like found on an external wastegate. i was thinking to have it operate similar to the one-way, ie have it operate on pressure difference, ie once the pressure behind it raises above the pressure before it after a set boost threshold, then it will start to open. ie set a spring load on the diaphragm shaft so it stays shut until say 1psi more than the maximum sc boost pressure, then gradually open until just before maximum boost is reached. as to s/c clutch control.. i have limited experience of the 4agze system apart from a fang in a mates aw11 mr2 supercharger. the sc clutch relay appear to run off the ecu.. so likely be controlled either by afm position or map. 8" vacuum is apparently where the s/c turns on. If a clutched SC is used, it is better for efficiency and durability to have it turn off at idle and cruise/coast conditions. some form of pressure activated relay with a time delay will do this. (time delay for gear changes and short duration decelleration). it is debateable whether it is worth turning the sc off at high rpm when a sequential system is used. the sc will be free wheeling basically, so load on the sc should be minimal. depends on use of the car. another idea for clutch control, would be to make use of the std map gze ecu controlling the s/c clutch on/off events yet intercept the relay at higher rpm and/or once turbo is boosting to switch it off if you desire, yet cut back in when intake plenum has vacuum and rev's dropped below the turbo's operating range... wouldn't want the sc clutch to engage as you back off the gas at 7000rpm every time.. this is another hurdle to overcome. was the HKS system somehow similar to this? complications... meh. keep charger on. VW have recently put into production their 1400tsi twincharger engines which won awards. 125kw and 32.5mpg

3tgte come in tt142 corona, TA63 celica or TA63 carina. GT-T or GT-TR models there's a vacuum/emissions system diagram on this page I'm creating http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/3tgte.htm

HKS no longer produce or plan to reproduce the 4agze twincharger kit. your best chance is to find a second hand system or build your own. http://www.hksusa.com/FAQ/?id=1594&rsku=0 i've been doing a bit of research into twincharging. seriously keen to build a 20v twincharger myself. wrote a big long reply but was a bit off topic so started a new thread. Fensport have bought an hks twincharged front cut and installed it in their project ae92 and are now modifying it they have a diagram of it too (below) some use information in their writeup. http://gama.main-hosting.com/~logabyte/twincharge1.html

awesome cheers

te27 on video!! made my day seeing this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-i7-WWeCvhE

saw this on utube. don't know if it's been posted before as a search revealed nothing. i'd be interested to know what engine it runnning etc.. anyone know anything about it?

oh and interesting stuff... can tell an e7 engine capacity by the 4digit chassis code. i believe i've now covered the complete list for e7 corolla chassis vs engine comparison, jdm and international codes incl ke70 = 1290cc 4k, 4k-u, 4k-u(II) (some international) ke71V = 1290cc 4k-j ke72V = 1290cc 4k-j ke73G = 1290cc 4k-u(II) ke74V = 1486cc 5k-j te70 = 1770cc 13t-u te71 = 1588cc 2t, 2t-c, 2t-b, 2tgeu (some international) te72 = 1770cc 3t-c (international) te73V = 1588cc 12t-j te74V = 1588cc 12t-j ae70 = 1452cc 3a-u, 3a-u(II) ae71 = 1587cc 4a-c (international) ce71V = 1839cc 1c ce72G = 1839cc 1c the V and G after chassis code refer to vans (wagon or estate whatever you wanna call it) this info sourced from the Group5 website (fricken awesome site) http://www.group5-web.com/e7/70_coro_top.html http://www.group5-web.com/e7/70_spr_top.html

oooh i have lots to say! not all now but yeah where are you guys getting this '3 bolt rear shock' idea from? i've never seen an ae86/ae85 other than having the normal threaded shaft rear shock just like the ke70, kp61, any rwd rolla for that matter. i've interchanged my ke70 rear shocks with my bro's ae86 and had no probs there. rear coil overs? assuming this is a coil-over shock, if you're going to use these instead of the normal spring in a 5link rear end then bracing on the lower shock mount is required or it'll bend/break there are two bolt patterns for the fr strut top on the E7 rolla's. from 79-82ish they had 3 equilaterally spaced studs. 83-88 they were unequal and identical to ae86. so can use ae86 camber plate in the later ke7/te7/ae7 but not the earlier type. ae86 and E7 strut towers are about 15mm different in width so a solid strut brace wont fit up exactly. an adjustable brace will be fine if the correct strut tower bolt spacing is used. (read above) i've found the very late nz ke70 wagon ie 87-88 have same strut as ae85, same caliper and disk. ae85 and jdm ae86 have similar strut but there can be differences in spring perch diameter depending which model (just the bare strut and hub... the v' disk, backing plate and caliper different so need all 3 parts to convert to jdm ae86 vented disk). as an upgrade can get bare ae8 strut, order new disks from dba and make caliper mounts for different calipers etc. these late ke70 have 130mm long steering arms with 85mm strut bolt spacing. all te## rollas have 85mm strut bolt spacing at the bottom as do ae8#. whereas ke3 and ke7 have 87mm bolt spacing. interestingly you can tell the difference between the two by looking at which direction the bolts holding the disk/hub together are pointing. the 85mm strut type have the disk bolted to the hub from the inside.. 87mm type have disk bolted to hub from the outside. ie the bolt threads in 85mm type are in the hub, 87mm type bolt threads are in the disk. hope that is clear enough? pretty handy when at wreckers. cannot interchange the hubs between the two as the bearings on 85mm type are wider spaced apart. so can't put te71/ae86 hub on ke70/ke30 etc. te71 have different bolt pattern for caliper backing plate in the strut than ae8 so can't interchange arg. engine crossmembers are interchangeable between all e7 and ae8 rollas. the crossmember's themselves are IDENTICAL.. but the engine mounts and rack mounts vary depending which car they were fitted to. cut te71 mounts off and weld to ae86 crossmember to get a rack in a te71 etc. gearbox x-members in TE71 and ae86 are different see pic http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/pics/te-ae-xmembers.jpg ke70 gearbox xmember sim to te71 shape but is wider and mounts further forwards ae86 and te71 hydraulic pedal boxes are not the same. ae86 has a separate clutch pedal box. te71 is all one part. ke3 has narrower track so diff is not as wide as ke70 etc ae86 and e7 (except wagon) diffs are similar in many ways. can bolt an ae86/te71 T series 6.7" in a ke70 for instance for upgrade. tho bigger diff head needs shorter driveshaft etc T series drum/leaf diff into ke70 wagon... look for late 70's corona wagon. te7/ae8 diff is 1400mm disk-to-disk so far have tried tt132 wagon T diff in ke70, 1415mm wide... leaf mounts are a little wider apart and have fatter locating pins but otherwise shocks/handbrake/driveshaft bolts in. using custom lowering blocks to compensate for mount differences. random info for ya heh. ae70/ae86/ke70 with rack'n'pinion have different rack mounts for the p/s rack than for manual rack. (as it is fatter at one end). steering arms are 115mm long for p/s compared to 125 - 135mm etc for manual rack p/s version steering arms can be used on manual rack to give more lock and faster steer rate. need to watch which wheels/tyre size you use as many skim the inner guard at full lock! (coming from experience) ke3# rolla or tt132 corona lower arms bolt into e7 to give an extra 10mm track (also more clearance on inner guard using the shorter steering arms). some more info on ke7/te7 differences and whats required for 2t conversion in ke70 here http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/KE70-2tgeu.htm ha that'll do for now

hmm the later ke20/ke25/ke26 in NZ have a twin circuit brake master. some even have an alloy one and remote reservior like the te27 but none have a booster.

those jappa te27's brake master is in a different spot than ke2#. (closer to the strut tower). if you look at your firewall on the engine bay side there's a little dimple towards the outside of the car next to the ke2 brake master.. te27's have the brake master come out here to a 4bolt booster like a ke30 and has more room for a clutch master cylinder next to it. they also have a totally different pedal box where the clutch pedal pivot is above the pedal box. if you're upgrading brakes then theres little to gain from a booster unless your a pussy and like a soft pedal haha. if your brakes are better than factory then theres less need to brake as hard to stop so theres less need for a booster. (The it would be nice to replicate a te27) if your new upgraded calipers are quite larger in size and you find you're running out of clutch pedal travel then do a brake master upgrade.. a factory setup often has the same size master as the caliper piston size... so if the caliper is 15/16 then see if you can run a 15/16 brake master. good luck adapting it to the vertical mount bolt pattern doh. i had to remove the factory NZ ke25 SR twin brake master so it cleared the 4age intake manifold.. replaced it with a single type which got it on the road. also bent up a bit of panel steel to sit behind the clutch master to sit nicely..