AE25

yes has been done over here. but using 4age and 4age turbo. but similar conversion applies. have you google'd it? i know of a guy Stu that has a blue ep71 with 4agte 195kw on 16psi. a quick search found this.. but further searching I'm sure you'll find info. http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic...=500739#p500739 plenty of info on those gt starlet forums

oh and when i was refering to a crank pulley trigger wheel.. i was meaning the lower cam belt pulley. so not modifying the factory harmonic balancer pulley at all. basically adding teeth to the back face of the cam pulley. this is a pic of the custom 7afe/4age pulley required when using 7afe oil pump and crank trigger. rather than a full billet piece.. it'd probably be easier making a laser cut tooth plate to tack on the back of a std pulley. (if the weld will hold). I believe there is enough material in a 7afe pulley to have the 4age teeth cut straight into it too. i'll have a go at a billet pulley for my own engine. once i've proven it, i'll see what it'll cost to make. don't hold your breath.

samQ you're right about saying there is no telling engine position when triggered from the crank.. but this is why you also run a cam angle sensor in conjunction with the crank trigger. std 4age dizzy has both trigger wheels in the dizzy. all you're doing is moving them to a different spot. if they're both vr sensors then it makes it easy to source sensors for the job. hard part is getting the position of the sensor right and making adjustable mounts so timing can be adjusted if required. in theory you don't need to adjust once its positioned, since the crank position does not move. only possibly the cam position with belt wear. the only adjustment i could find on factory crank sensors was the gap between sensor and trigger wheel. Many toyota waste spark engines run this setup. have seen it on a 4efe, 7afe, 3sfe etc. i have pullies from these to prove it. and i have a rather simple answer to plugging the dizzy hole off. i was stripping a rwd 3sfe sr40 liteace noah engine the other day which is twin coil waste spark and no distributor at all. dizzy hole is still there but with a FROSTPLUG in it. duh. glad i thought of it :dance:

1988 corolla wtf?? why go into all that detail with dizzy coils... what 4age has a coil in the dizzy anyway? none. get the right one to start with, no problems. beauc that version came in ae86, aa63 or at141. ie the rwd bigport tvis bluetop 3rib engine. the fwd version come in ae82 and at16# celica etc. the head/block/sump on fwd are same as rwd version.. it's just the bolt on stuff that varies. the jdm map version is rated at 130PS which converts to about 95kw. you have a T50 there with 4a bell.. it looks like clutch fork and slave cylinder is on exhaust side.. which suggests its from an aussie ae71 or ae86? "Chasing -Dizzy (Do i need a certain type?) - a bluetop one. -Exhaust manifold (Might get a china ebay one and fix it up) - a std ae86, aa63, at141 4age manifold will work -Altenator- the ae82 fwd 4age alternator also fits and works. double check plug is same. -Starter motor - any 16v 4age with starter on exhaust side should bolt in. some may have different position for the wiring. -AFM probably - use a map sensor and map type ecu = better -Stock ECU for now (Any type or should there be a special one i need to get?) - a bluetop one that matches the engine loom. -1 x Cam cover bolt, the little silver ones - they use studs and chrome nuts don't they? -1 x flywheel - any 8bolt 4age flywheel will bolt on the crank.. but later versions have a larger clutch so you'll need a matching clutch and clutch plate spline to suit the gearbox used. 4agze clutch assy won't fit in a t50. late k50 shifter (ke70) and shifter housing fit the late t50 (te71/ae86/tt141). Also the lo/hi shifter from some 4wd hilux box fits in a t50, but can't remember if its the W56, G52 or R151. it is shorter too but you'll need to bend the shaft backwards to make it feel right otherwise it sits too far forward.

what I'm doing (about to do) is use the late 7afe oil pump of which has a factory crank angle sensor fitted in the oil pump housing. you can't use the 7afe lower cam belt pulley obviously as it is larger diameter to suit the 7afe single type cam pulley.. but i've designed up a pulley that has the 20v 18tooth wheel, but also has the 36 tooth ignition trigger wheel on the rear of it. (I'm a toolmaker by trade so can make this stuff at work). I'm using aftermarket ecu too though. I'm not sure how many teeth the 20v dizzy has in it.. but you could make something up that mimic's the original dizzy signal but runs off the crank, so you can still use the factory ecu. then run a 2nd vf sensor off the front of the exhaust cam pulley with a suitable trigger wheel to signal firing position. all is hidden under the covers so it'll leave people guessing! kinda over the top though. you could mount a dizzy off the front of the exhaust cam and run the leads backwards to get the right firing order. seen that done.

lookin good how bout redrill the std axles to 4x114.3 rather than swapping to ke30 axels. more room for dish that way.

so how much gap was there without the 20v dizzy greenmac80? there are a few options for removing dizzy. like making a round alloy disk to fit in the hole, then weld it in so its flush or below surface. or a custom made pressure plug.. like on page3 on this cataloge (1.3mb). it has two halves that screw together, there is taper on one and a c-clip around it that expands outwards to lock onto the bore + an oring to seal on the bore. these are usually used when you can only get to the hole from one end. or just turn a barrel shaped thing with oring groove on outside, and a head on one end then use a washer and a bolt thru the other end to hold it in place. if there's space on the firewall to have something bolt on the head, you could cut down the 20v dizzy housing so that the mount is there and then plug the hole up the center so it doesn't leak. or make something custom that bolts on and plugs the hole.

well i hope that people go back and edit their information if they've been corrected coz there's alot of false, vague or conflicting info in this thread. E7 and E3 engine crossmembers are definately different in width. proof in pic below. comparing 4age and 3tgte is like apple vs orange. two very different power plants. both will be fun to drive, 4age will handle better, 3tgte will fry tyres easier. if you pop an engine, i know which one i'd rather find a replacement for! if you ultimately want to have a turbo engine, imo start with a 4agze. if you like the oldschool factor or 8v twincam, go 3tgte. in my experience.. the 4agze and 3tgte produce similar power when similar turbo's and upgrades are used even though the 3t has more capacity. but the 4agze has the benefit of better weight, age and parts availability which makes it a better base to start on and also more responsive when driven. Any 3tgte (unless its already been rebuilt) will need a quick freshen up so it doesn't piss it's guts out. try start with a complete engine/gearbox/ecu loom package therefore cheaper in the long run. the 4agze turbo will need quite a few aftermarket parts $$$ to make it run and be reliable, like turbo conversion parts and w55 gearbox and bellhousing if you're making decent power. whereas the 3tgte is all there, but usually needs a few repairs, especially the exhaust manfold which tend to crack. also with regards to 16v vs 20v.. if you completely remove the 20v dizzy and run a crank angle sensor on the front with aftermarket ecu, there's still an extra 10mm(?) of head hanging over the bellhousing.. but in a ke30 using ae71 gearbox crossmember with box bolted up.. does this positioning make the 20v head interfere with the ke3 firewall still? just to clarify when saying a 16v will fit but a 20v won't using the ae71 gearbox xmember, you had to make new engine mounts to move the 20v further forwards to clear the dizzy, which meant the gearbox also moves forwards and the original gearbox xmember now wont line up. but if you made the 20v head clear the firewall then it will not have an effect on using ae71 gearbox xmember. i don't think there's a difference between ae70 and ke70 manual gearbox xmembers either.. they both run a k50 box. is there a difference between ae70 and ae71 gearbox xmembers? (k50 vs t50) also no one has mentioned that using a t50 or k50 from ae70, ae71, ae85, ae86 will have the wrong shifter position out of the gearbox tunnel. so either need to cut the tunnel hole further rearwards and modify the center console if you have one... or find a ke55 or kp61 k50 tail housing to fit the ae70/ae85 k50. a ta22 T50 5speed could possibly be used with a spacer ring on the ae71/ae86 4age bellhousing.. this will put the shifter in the right spot and mate to the original manual ke30 driveshaft. using the 22spline T50 will require driveshaft mods. if mounting a 3tgte with a t50 box, the 20spline t50 from earlier te71/te72/corona/celica/carina etc will mate to the ke30 manual driveshaft. but the later 1983+ 22spline t50 requires custom driveshaft. using a w55 with the 3tgte has a larger 21spine driveshaft which is same spline as alot of toyota auto driveshafts.. but you'll probably have to shorten one. and in this case it'd be better to find a stronger driveshaft (bigger universals) to be more reliable with the 1800 turbo. like rt132 with a w40/w50 box. oh geez.. and what about diff mods.. ke30 diffs aren't exactly 4age or 3tgte proof.

everyone is quite opinionated aren't they.. i'll jump in with mine then :P I'm liking the original brown (chocolate?) don't change it. mk3's are awesome, they look great with a flat aluminium center and semi-polished lip. i also thought the early type indicator corners looked bloody good on it, pity one was broken. jdm styles ftw! Things i think would look better if changed... wheel position. the rear is sweet, could do with original ke20 axles but redrilled to 114.3x4.. this'll pull each wheel in 10mm or so, giving you more tyre clearance on the wheel arch. and are those tyres snow rated or something haha. bit too tall and too narrow imo. a directional tread 175.65.13 or similar maybe? the fronts, um, i think this is a bit too much for a non flared guard. i'd wind some camber plates all the way in then adjust the lca length to suit. install some rca's while you're at it. if you're going for the bosozoku look then you should dump that thing on it's arse. seriously. good luck on scrapage issues and law enforcement. whitewalls belong on pre70's cars or stocko steelies imo.. :blush: you're only giving it that 'i wannabe an oldschool car' look to it. its already looking sweet! one other thing.. how come the panels look bare.. ie wheres all the chrome trims gone? is this some delux model that didn't come with them or did someone debadge it? your rear sway bar.. i can't see that it would do anything.. i know how it is supposed to work.. but from the pic it looks like you've got it mounted to the leaf platforms both ends.. and since these mounting points are bolted solid to the diff.. they aren't going to move! this type of sway bar mounting should be trying to equalise the variation in angle of the leaf spring in relation to the chassis (or diff links in a 5link system). how you've got it wont have any variation. food for thought. lookin good anyways.. more low down and better tyres ftw!

hey love the conversion! were your 'new engine mounts' modified ones or bolt in from what car? (got a chassis number of the car?) which model corona axles fitted? would be great to have a completed list of which parts bolted up and which ones needed modification!!! (please put a link up if this has already been done). chur

the search button is your friend rather than repeat whats already been said... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=14590 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=6578 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=28332 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...=8002&st=30 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=5279 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=15256 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=20269

bit late.. but this is how i mounted mine in '99. before i knew much about driveline geometry. wasn't much info on this sort of thing then. wanted it as low as it could go and as rear as it could go for best weight balance without any chassis cutting. one thing i did not realise was driveshaft yolk angles were on the piss. so 6mths of driving and driveshaft uni's were getting a bit noisey at 180km/h. will redo it eventually. used the std gearbox crossmember position and redrill the rubber mount holes. had like 5mm clearance on the drag links (steering) at full lock both ways. plenty room on the sway bar (i have the later type which is better suited). i shortened l/h crossmember mount for room to get oil filter on. factory exhaust manif still fit fine. had to swap from twin brake master to a single for inlet clearance. (this will change when i get round to it). just a comparison anyways http://toycrazy.net/mark/1stStage.htm good to see some info online about mounting these things. :jamie: no more news on this ride?

theres is quite a long thread in the rollaclub conversions section on twincharging with a heap of information. please try understand as much you can. to simply blow sc into the turbo will only be as good as the SC alone. as soon as the turbo outflows the sc it will create a vacuum between the two and you won't achieve any more power. the only way for this to work is a bypass valve around the sc so the turbo can inhale as much air as it can. the VW 1400 tsi engine works this way. a better way imo is having the turbo blow into the sc so that once the turbo is spooling it will create pressure before the sc, the sc will inhale more air than it could by itself and therefore be able to produce more airflow. this improves the pressure difference before and after gets too high and creates too much heat (which limits boost). i know alot of systems that work this way. yes you should be using a bov with the turbo and a recirculation valve on the sc regaurdless of system type. with turbo into sc there are many ways to setup a gradual changeover from sc to turbo using bypass valve and recirculation valve. ditch the gze inlet manifold if you still have it.. they don't flow very well.

they're a typical pushrod motor. pretty bullet proof. good low/mid range pull. plenty of aftermarket support. needs a good cam and flow mods to wake it up. lightened flywheel helps with the sluggish feel. much cheaper than a 4age conversion! most of them will piss oil everywhere. best to freshen one up if you want it to last if regularly abused.. rings, bigends and gaskets etc

yep what hiro said. the oil returns to the sump via the fitting like in the pic (that one from a 7mgte) and they're a thermostatic bypass type. no you don't have to have one. if your into racing and the oil could do with being cooled then yeah good idea to fit one. plenty of aftermarket ones available which are usually full flow out and back into the oil filter.

don't ask where i found this photo.. been downloaded a while ago now

do you have a 4k with hydraulic lifter? and you want to convert it to solid lifter? the engine block is usually the same, except that it has an oil gallery to the lifters and a grub screw near the distributor. you can swap to a normal solid lifter setup by using all the parts (lifters, pushrods and rocker assembly) from the same size engine. this applies for the 5k. i have never seen a 4k with hydraulic lifter before??? you can put a longer grub screw in to block off the oil gallery once converted to solid lifter to reduce oil flow where it's not needed. the 4k-II or later twin squish 4k have a different length pushrod than the early 4k so measure things up and check operation before running the engine.

unfortunately toyota3tc is dead and gone. a new forum has started to replace it http://www.3tcgarage.com the moderator of toyota3tc username highplainsdrifter turbo'd a 13T in his te27 and found that when pushing it that the double chamber wall got too hot and was cracking and i think causing detonation too.. so if you still want to turbo the 3t.. put a normal 3t hemi head on it.

i have done this so should be able to answer any questions. they come factory with a w55. the bellhousing for this box is unique to the 3tgte and only came out in japan so not the easiest to find. a 1g-w55 bellhousing is the same bolt pattern minus one hole and the clutch is on the exhaust side so could be used as an alternative. the T50 from a te72 or ta63 etc will also fit but not as strong (will be ok for a stock 3tgt) and you'll need a custom clutch plate if using the larger 3tgte flywheel and t50 together. as to mounts.. if you have recirculating ball steering then its easy. use T18 engine crossmember and mounting rubbers bolt it in. the exhaust side needs to have the 3tgte bracket as the turbo bolts to it but it is the same shape as the te71/72 so can interchange. 3tgte mounting rubbers are fatter so don't fit nicely. I'm using a ta63 gearbox xmember with slotted holes. i was told my another kiwi ke70 3tgte owner that he used the auto xmember and it bolted in. can't remember if it was ma61 or ta63 one he used tho. driveshaft depends on the gearbox used. if using a t18 t50 then it should all bolt in using t18 mounts, gearbox and driveshaft. I'm using a w55 with a shortened rt116 corona driveshaft.. tho if using a T series diff then i think that shaft was a good length. i have a larger F series diff so i had to shorten it. te71/te72 radiator can be used but is a bit small if going to race it. getting hard to find good ones anyway. top radiator hose needs to be modified a bit to fit.. or use a 2tg(eu) thermostat outlet pipe so it faces forwards and it looks alot tidier. a 2.5" exhaust works well on these engines from the dump pipe back. if you have original wiring and ecu then that works well, but is a bit crude compared to todays aftermarket ecu's. I'm using a complete tt142 corona GT-T loom and it fitted in the ke70 with a few plug changes on the indicators and totally rewired the guage cluster to fit a te71 set. had to make a hole in the l/h inner guard (te71 has this already) for this loom. if you know a thing or two about wiring then these systems are pretty basic so shouldn't be hard to wire up as a separate engine loom. theres a couple tricks required for the boost cut and knock control tho. um .. yeah probably lots i've missed but that should give you some ideas. happy to answer questions etc. my website has a big long blog on my ke70 and the tech section has some info on TG engine into ke70s. http://www.toycrazy.net heh back when the paint was fresh

yip if the ke70 has recirculating ball steering then its a matter of swapping the parts across. if you have rack theres a list of mods required. (may be better to source an aus spec ae71 pedal box). whats required may be found on this page http://toycrazy.net/tech/KE70-2tgeu.htm

to the pics that mulotix posted. looks like sc12 allright but outlets look a bit different to the one i have. but interesting no-one has picked up that it's mounted UPSIDE DOWN! the pivot mount should be at the bottom and the breathers and oil filler is at the top. so if this is the case.. basically all your sc oil has drained out the breathers and that whine could probably be the gears wearing out haha :P theres nothing wrong with a blow thru setup. id do it this way myself. suck thru means you have an inlet tract full of unburnt fuel.. so any back fire and you're gonna blow that shit apart. boom! to get rid of the sc noise - run a bypass valve like the factory 4agze or 1ggze setup. basically this is a wastegate valve plumbed from after the sc back round to before it. so when you let off the throttle the air will circulate around the sc rather than out a BOV (noisy) or to nowhere which means the charger is loading up when it doesn't need to. (super boosted inlet pipes if blow thru or unnessary load on the charger if suck thru). also if running suck thru without a bypass valve and the breathers aren't equalised you may end up with sc oil being sucked into the inlet which is why it's leaking. think about it.. throttle shut, sc spinning away means sucking a big vacuum after the carb before the sc.. any rubber inlet pipe there will collapse if not reinforced, oil sucked out of sc... sc is loading up which will cause it to whine so there's your noise problem when not boosting. oh and extra load on the belt could eventually cause wear and tear on it and also use more gas. hmm even if you have a carby before the sc you should still run a recirculating valve as does the factory setup.

my fave has been 195.50.15 dunlop fm901's on a 15x7" rim. pity they don't make them anymore. toyo ra1's rock! if you can afford them. otherwise bridgestone grid2 or grid3 are pretty good all round tyre. i never run anything taller than a 60 profile or it feels like the tyres will roll under the rim.. but then i guess doing 150k sideways doesn't help :yes:

this is usually the first system thought of when building one. and yes have seen it done.. but will only work if you have some sort of flapper plate after the chargers to shut off the other one otherwise the air will try blow back out the second charger. i have read of differing results.. it works for some but not for others. that system i believe is a poor design from the start. reason is the turbo will be pushing against a closed flap as it's spooling up so i would think this will increase turbo lag. once both chargers are flowing air then the flap will sit at the right spot so both are pushing air into the engine. heres an unfinished 3sgte twincharger in a te71 GT sedan many years ago at NZ 4 n rotor nats. notice the two air filters. more pics at bottom of this gallery http://www.toycrazy.net/gallery/nats/2001/index.htm

welcome aboard fullas :D ke25's rule! tim you live in the best place to find coupe parts! try finding them up north haha. rusty central up here. but i might be able to help :wink: Baz nice looking ke25 you have :wink: doubt you'll find a whole manifold for a downdraft weber. more likely to find an adapter plate for the original aisan manifold. ask on www.club-k.co.nz for that kinda stuff unless you want to pay overseas freight on top.

i already had a rack in mine.. so i cut the mounts off a te71 (te72 in aus or the US) and welded them onto the ke70 xmember. the steering joint thingee does sit really close to the r/h bracket from the block to the gearbox. i unbolted it for clearance and even then it slightly contacts the rear of the 3t sump. but a ding in the rear corner of sump is not an issue :) if using recirculating ball steering then its easier. use all te71 or te72 xmember and steering and it bolts up using the 2t or 3t mounting rubbers on the 3tgte engine brackets. a t50 for a T engine will bolt up with the correct parts, or the w55 will with an auto ma61 gearbox xmember apparently. i used a manual gbox xmember and slotted the mounting holes. if you don't mind reading a heap of stuff then ive written up alot on my site. www.toycrazy.net under 'mark' and the black ke70 coupe. and also in the tech menu under 2tgeu into ke70 will explain alot on swapping steering and xmembers to suit whatever engine.