AE25

yep the dohc bracket is different to the 3t-c pics. the dohc pump uses 4 bolts to mount it solid to the bracket and has a sliding tensioner pulley on the bracket to adjust belt tension.

A 2tgeu head conversion requires almost a complete 2tgeu. minus the block, crank rods and pistons. may as well get the complete engine and stroke it using 3t crank and pistons?! some options... 3t-eu efi. bolt on efi to 3t-c. found on jdm ta63 celica/carina and possibly tt142? corona. hard to find though. 2tgeu inlet with adaptor plate. should be able to buy adaptors off the shelf. search http://www.3tcgarage.com/ as i've seen the conversion done on there a few times. unfortunately the forums were recently lost. port size and spacing is the same. so only need to adapt the bolt pattern. 3t-c sidedraft manifold (aftermarket) with aftermarket efi throttles to suit dcoe/dhla/phh flange. expensive. 2t-g oem sidedraft manifold with adaptor plate and aftermarket efi throttles as above. expensive Custom inlet manifold to suit efi bike throttles. One of the better options. make sure they have a TPS and injectors mounted in the bodies which is easier to make the inlet. Avoid the ones with constant velocity slides. The 3t head flange only needs tubes on it as the throttles are usually connected with flexi hose. need custom accelerator cable. will need to make a custom plenum if boosting. Custom inlet manifold with injector bosses and fuel rail mounts to suit 20v throttles. The throttles are closer spaced than the 3t ports so the runners need to be kinked. If boosting, probably better to use a single throttle on a plenum. Custom inlet manifold with plenum, throttle body and injectors. Adapt the plenum off something else. Have read of people using sr20 exhaust manifolds on 3t with a flange swap.. so chances are the inlet ports are spaced the same too. food for thought. or lastly, adapt a single point fuel injection throttle body in downdraft orientation. wouldn't be the most performance oriented, but it'd sure beat a std down draft carb. They come on the 4s-fi powered st170 corona for instance. saw one on an audi the other day too. --------------------------- Electronic distributor can be swapped from 3t-eu, 13t-u and 2tgeu. 13t-u come in the jap townace for instance. the cap on those are larger diameter than found on 3t-c and 2tgeu. They all have a 4 lobe VR sensor though like the 18r-geu or 4k-u/5k-j. which is one pulse per combustion event. ie cannot run wastespark or sequential from it. but they can be modified to suit both. ie a replacement multi lobe trigger wheel with a missing tooth for wastespark Or for sequential, can add a second single lobe trigger wheel in place of the mechanical advance weights with a 2nd sensor mounted through the side of the distributor. or Trim off 3 of the 4 lobes to use as the sync signal, and add a trigger wheel and sensor to the crank pulley. This is the most performance oriented option. The same could be done with a points distributor.. ie add a trigger wheel on the dizzy shaft and mount a VR or Hall effect sensor through the side of the housing. plenty of modern engines with suitable sensor for this. Crank triggered timing is the most accurate as it doesn't have any timing chain slop or distributor gear backlash.

wakey wakey topic 300rwhp on stock pistons is do-able yes, but not exactly reliable. It would take only a poor batch of fuel or a quick fuel surge or something like a sensor to read wrong, and the cast pistons will die very quickly. or head gasket let go or many other things that fail under stress. forged pistons will at least handle a bit of detonation before breaking. so i have been tinkering and have some info to share in regards to t25/t28 conversion. Using std efi. first off fitted innovate wideband meter. v8 fuel pump, 440cc 7mgt inj's, 5mge afm tweaked to 11:1 afr (still rich), front mounted gtir I/C, 2.1/2" mandrel exhaust, wound up boost from ct20 to 14psi. The difference this made to power over a std engine is quite a contrast. highly recommend with the supporting fuel mods! CT20 vs t25 from a Rover 2.0 vs S15 t28... CT turbine is larger, compressor is smaller. which explains why they're laggy for the power produced. CT20 | T25 | T28 Turbine In 59.8 | 53 | 53 Ex 47.9 | 41.7 | 41.7 Compressor In 36 | 42 | 46.5 Ex 56.9 | 54 | 60.1 I then fitted a chinese T28 (actually t25 in wheel size lol). wound that up to 16psi and definately noticeable improvement in boost response and power over ct20. but the wheel balance was screwed and it self destructed. fitting genuine garrett t25 and t28 now for a test... adding t28 conversion pics in here. will make a web page once well tested. http://toycrazy.net/tech/3tgte-t28/

tidy 55 you got there! and good to see you converting over to the efi. :happy: plenty info on how to twincharge on the interwebs already if you not sure. existing production twincharged cars incl. Nissan March superturbo Lancia Delta S4 VW Golf tsi click on above to see system diagrams. some more ramblings of my own on this forum if you havent seen. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/13186-4agze-twincharger-conversions/ theres an awesome mitsi evo5 twincharge in scotland. can see vids on youtube under user evomadmac. he uses compound charged turbo into super with two coolers. pretty much the ultimate setup like the delta s4. Simplest setup being turbo into super but is limited to how much heat the system creates and how much heat the supercharger can handle. balance of boost levels is key. the other option is go sequential which requires a bypass valve. can use either turbo into super (nissan march) or super into turb (VW) but each has it's own quirks to iron out. Position of throttle before or after supercharger also makes big difference to system operation. then theres the parallel system which may or may not work. they usually fail. one that works is the opel mantra kadett volvo engine thing. he uses two flapper valves from what can been seen in his pics. i just never see the point in it when series and sequential are proven performers. so yeh. keep up the effort. curious to see how you get on. will assist in system design if requested. good luck

going by your question i would assume you to be very new to modifying cars? 'worth' is only relevant to you and what you expect from the car. if this is a daily driver then no, modifying it is not worth it, because it'll cost you more in petrol. if this is something you want to go picking on commonwhores with then yes a turbo conversion would be fully worth it. Swapping in a 4age shouldn't be hard if you've got a complete donor ae92 to nick all the right parts from. I don't know what car prices are like over there, but just selling up and getting the 4age version to start with is usually best option. - less work, less hassle, all support systems are already in place etc. no certification issues either. 4age have more selection of aftermarket goodies if you're going to modify cams or go turbo whatever. but there's still potential in the 4afe. the later ones (ae1##) have a better port angle than the earlier type which are better for flow. see bill sherwood's website about that, i think its on his starlet page. the block and bottom end could be swapped out for the 4age or 7afe to get a bit more torque or just to strengthen it up. pistons would have to be checked for valve clearancing etc. doing cams would need a bit of initiative since it's not a commonly modified version of 4a. Some research and development on your part would be required. a supercharger or small turbo setup on a near stock engine would certainly liven things up for sure but it's going to cost to make it reliable. hope that helps

old post.... but guess what just showed up on trademe... GG42! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=357833037

FNQ_rolla no wont fit. the W box mount sits lower with 4bolts a difference between fwd and rwd fork and release bearing is the width of the fork that pushes on the release bearing tabs. the fwd fork arms are thinner and wider from memory. it could be made to work with fwd fork, rwd release bearing, but the slop between them could be an issue :glare: starter interchangeability... so long as its on the same side of engine and from another 4a then it should work. around ae92/ae101 they swapped from mounting on exhaust side to intake side and changed the starter bolt pattern to suit. One of the best exhaust side starters is the redtop smallport which is smaller and more powerful with planetary reduction gear. If you want them to last longer, put a heat shield between it and the exhaust if not one already fitted. especially if turbo

mounting an ae82 4age remote thermostat to rwd. we chopped/welded the heater return pipe so it didn't head towards the block and also shortened the water pump inlet pipe to suit and think we changed the cold idle valve piping to suit. was a while ago and a small port 4agze engine converted rwd with ae92 4age remote thermostat (much better fit). notice position of knock sensor under #3&4 instead of 2&3 on n/a 4age smallport. pic courtesy of 'stolic' on toyspeed forum. and another ae82/ae92 remote thermostat comparison pic

if that is the case.. the oil gallery can be blocked by making something to fit under the grub screw in side of block between dizzy and front of engine.

I'm not sure what the grub screw is for (red arrow). but on the early block there are two oil ports. one in your pic with the sensor is where the pressure guage sender fits and the other directly under the mechanical fuel pump. later block just use the port with sensor (in your pic).

2nd that. theres no difference between a late T series T50 (ta61, te71 1983+) and the 4age T50. they are both 22spline and interchange. any 20 spline t50 has a smaller input shaft bearing that locates on the bellhousing.. which requires a locating ring to keep the gearbox concentric with the crank.

2nded also 300hp on std pistons i have seen done, with 16psi and t3/t4 turbo. but any detonation whatsoever will blow holes in pistons. good idea to run an oil catch can from both breathers. Most importantly have it tuned on the safe side (rich). I'd hope your ct20 is in good condition.. wouldn't want it blowing oil into the inlet. a restrictive air filter could cause this on a worn turbo.

ooh just remembered. skid vid from hampton...

5k's in kp starlets range from 14's to 17's. but they're 2-300kg lighter. so i'd be expecting at least in the 16's if it is worked well

why? so many better engines available

i put a 3tgte in mine. engine/box bolts in using a mix of factory parts. supra box that is. then did 7.5" lsd diff conversion to finish it off. sourcing parts in aus probly the hardest part. a little bit bargey if you don't have the right suspension. having rack steering requires a few mods. my preferred engine.. turbo a 4agze

yes. buy the manual parts and bolt them in. trim the shifter hole to suit. join the 'neutral start switch' plugs together or engine wont start. ie early type k40 or k50 gearbox (kp61 or ke55) driveshaft flywheel clutch clutch cable manual pedal box

have done this conversion myself. article here http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/ke2strutupgrade.htm te21 and te28 steering arms are same as te27. Sourced some te28 arms out of hawaii of all places and now fitted into ke26 with ae85 struts, ae92GT shocks, king springs and original ke2 top hats. definately needs those camber plates and lowering springs. i have about 2deg POSITIVE camber without camber plates. te2 steering arms have 85mm bolt spacing and 110mm length eye-to-eye but a smaller 12mm ball joint hole to suit ke1/ke2 ball joints. 80-85mm offset RCA's would be a good idea. cheaper than buying te2 steering arms and 85mm RCA's together.

there's two types of std rod for 4k too. commercial 4k van and late 4k are fatter than the earlier ones. 1g-eu sohc engine has same rod too apparently. smaller gudgeon than the twincam 1G.

i had this manifold thickness problem. tempory fix was find washers the right thickness to take up the gap.. cut em in half and use the halves on the thinner flange. PITA to get em all in without em falling out though. a 3/8 ratchet with long extension and 14mm tube socket does the trick. there are gaps in the manifold so extension fits thru. helps to loosen the 3 hotbox bolts under the carb so that the two manifolds can level out on the head. don't break hotbox bolts! also genuine toyota 3layer steel gasket. cost $nz33.75 when i bought one few months back. cheaper than the genuine two piece graphite ones. those blue paper ones are crap.. don't bother. part number 17172-13050 from kr42 7k *carby* engine image taken from sheldons car thread (blown5k) on club-k

haha i read the quote and thought that sounds like something i've said. so whats the chassis code of the charmant? i think they used a toyota based chassis.. so with any luck a diff from a similar toyota chassis will fit in. question in pic: handbrake cable rt132 corona with T series diff has the early (zenki) small axle. so yes a zenki ae86 lsd should fit. the tt141 came with both zenki and kouki size axles as they were built during the crossover to larger axle.

haha can't remove bearing from the axle with crow bar. the bearing slides out of the diff housing once you've undone the 4 retaining bolts. i got sick of smashing axles out after they wouldn't budge. so made my own axle puller. consists of a ke2 shock shaft, large washer welded on end, the center of a drum (to suit axle) cut out and an old steering arm welded to it to clear the spigot, and a large diesel engine gudgeon pin. works everytime! slide hammer version 1 failed. using driveshaft and brake drum/disk. kept breaking welds on the disk.. meh cast iron. sliding the drum was awkward too.

weld a plate in it. no more leaks :y: 7k carby kr42 manifold gasket are good to use on the head. they're a 3 layer steel gasket and don't blow out like the cheapy aftermarket paper ones. genuine parts ftw! #17172-13050

i started looking into finding some sort of conversion twincam head for the K's. found that the bore spacing is much wider than the later heads like say 4efe. so gave up. figured the E engines looked like the 3k-r anyway so if you had a custom cam cover made to replicate one.... so why not convert one rwd.. ie a 5efhe and sit some quads and curved ram tubes ... just to keep everyone guessing. a suitably worked 4k/5k can definately give 4ages a run. but std.. haha no way. i've had std 4k and 5k in my ke/kp cars and the std 4age ke25 would own them easy. ok yeah, takes some effort to convert.. but efi = drivability and they love a good thrash. replacements are pretty cheap so why rebuild? chuck some bigends in it with bottom conversion set and new cam belt and give it death!