Mitch-12 Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 4kc auto - 8.5:14kc manual 9:1 pretty low comp standard Howcome the auto 8.5:1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben-89 Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 4kc auto - 8.5:14kc manual 9:1 pretty low comp standard Those compression ratios apply to the ke30/55's. Auto or manual ke70's had the same 9:1 compression ratio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch-12 Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 Those compression ratios apply to the ke30/55's. Auto or manual ke70's had the same 9:1 compression ratio. Hmm why 8.5:1 for the auto 30-55? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 I don't know if thats right Evan. Not saying you're wrong but do you have a haynes scan or something to show that? Retarded timing or advanced? I'd imagine retarded for the increase in compression inside the cylinder chambers? Am i right? TAZ when i under take this thing man i will have a million questions for you bud, just letting you know in advance too dude, oh another thing too man is there anyway to get a de comp plate or something like that put in between the head and block like they do with the 4age's and fords n/a 4l's from e series to help not break anything as fast? Yeah retarding mate. Retarding the timing effectively 'lowers the CR at the time of firing'. More boost you run the more timing yuou need to pull out. I honestly wouldn't bother with any sort of de-comp plate, it'll just double your chances of a HG failure and screw up the squelch of the cylinder. Fire away when you need help. I don't mind answering specific questions, just don't ask for like a full run down. I'm slowly working on a new "Boosted K motors" FAQ section too btw. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW42 Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Yeah Nah if i want a full run down i'll just read your thread haha, thanks mate it'll be a huge help!, fair enough no de comp plate for the k motor then :lol: i thought it might be an idea for somebody to think of, oh is there anyway you can make a k dizzy electric too so i don't have spark blow out or something like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Just get a K series electronic dizzy. Can buy them new from KE Motorsport in the commercial trader section at the mo. Then chuck some b7es (or maybe b6es) plugs in it. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW42 Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Cool what are they like iridium plugs or something or just really good plugs? Would a ballbearing t28 from a s15 be too big for the k motor? Oh for the J pipe on your engine could you please pm me some pics of it so i have a generall idea of how long to make the J pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Nah not iridium, just normal NGK. The centre electrode is much lower (you'll see what I mean when you get some) and is supposed to reduce the spark getting blown out under boost. I run the 7's and I know a guy with an R32 skyline who does too, as well as another guy (who told me about them) who uses them in a supercharged 202. So yeah, they're a pretty versatile plug. I actually want an S15 BB T28 for my car. Would be fine on the 5k, only slightly laggier on a 4k. Would still have better response than a bush bearing T28 casue of the ball bearings though. Here's a good pic of my J-pipe.... Length doesn't really matter that much. Just put it somewhere were its easy to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW42 Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 So delete the battery and it'll be easy to work on? haha, that looks alot easier than what i thought for a j pipe, is that a wrx turbo i see there? Yeah i picked it up cheap off boostloosing $150 with next to no shaft play up or down side to side! It was cheap as chips, yeah if there were more 5k's around i'd use a 5k but they seem to only be in SA, and thats a fair drive from brisbane for an engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 So delete the battery and it'll be easy to work on? haha, that looks alot easier than what i thought for a j pipe, is that a wrx turbo i see there? Yeah i picked it up cheap off boostloosing $150 with next to no shaft play up or down side to side! It was cheap as chips, yeah if there were more 5k's around i'd use a 5k but they seem to only be in SA, and thats a fair drive from brisbane for an engine You picked up the S15 BB T28 for $150????? If its too big I'd swap you for something smaller, like a T25G! Yeah thats a WRX TD04-L. The turbo thats some wanker was trying to tell me last week would be too big for a 4k...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW42 Posted June 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Yes sir he was putting a gt35r or something onto his really pissed sr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7FOUR7 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 Would it be possible to run the j pipe under the engine so you wan mount the turbo on the opposite side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW42 Posted August 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 Would it be possible to run the j pipe under the engine so you wan mount the turbo on the opposite side? like a subi, yeah you could do it but why when if you move the battery to the boot and make the turbo sit close to were the battery used to be it shouldn't really be a hassle! :) hope that helps. If you look at TAZRX's tar build thread it shows where it is in a good spot on a early ke and when i start my boosted 5k build, i'll be putting pics up of where my turbo will be sitting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7FOUR7 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 Was just wondering for symetry and neatness sake, something different to the others you know. Also how big should the secondries be drilled out in the stocko carby? Sorry if it's a noob question but I'm not very familiar with cabies I come from a vl turbo background Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LXY-642 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 (edited) Hey 7four7. If you have seen darren's ke10 on ct that was running a j pipe over to the other side of the engine bay. I'll find the link for ya. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...;highlight=Ke10 Edited August 24, 2010 by wpn36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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