Mason. Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 ok so i need a tutorial on how to change front springs on a ke70. i would wing it and try myself but i need to drive it tomorrow haha so don't want to f@$k it... too much, i got spring compressor things and everything else needed. its just do i need to undo the brake line? if yes i need to bleed the brakes right? lol i don't know how to do that shit.. might just wing it anyway if noone can help.. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollake70 Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 hahaha yeh mate when we done myne we done a complete dodgy lol and disconnected the whole strut so you could manually put the springs in lol yeh the first 1 was hard the second was easy but u shouldnt f@$k it just yeh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 If no-one has cut the bracket on the strut you will have to undo the brake lines there. Then cut a slot in the strut bracket so you can just slide the hose joint back in and clip it on later, so you never have to split the hose joint again. Stupid idea! The strut will come out easily enough and the spring compressors work fine. It will be much easier getting the cut springs off than trying to get the stockies back on! Mind your fingers! How did the rears go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mason. Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 If no-one has cut the bracket on the strut you will have to undo the brake lines there. Then cut a slot in the strut bracket so you can just slide the hose joint back in and clip it on later, so you never have to split the hose joint again. Stupid idea! The strut will come out easily enough and the spring compressors work fine. It will be much easier getting the cut springs off than trying to get the stockies back on! Mind your fingers! How did the rears go? just kept the cut rear springs in, but changed yhe stock shock to a shorter one... less bumpy now. yeah for the fronts I'm trying to take stocks out and put lowered kings springs in. hopefully i get it right. removing the brake lines gonna drip fluid every where right? haha never done this before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 unless you clamp the line with a fluid line clamp or locking pliers with a rag :jamie: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 Basically yeah, it will drip fluid everywhere. I don't like clamping them as it can fracture the rubber, but you could stick the little rubber cap on it that comes off the bleed nipple. Afterwards you'll have to bleed the brakes. At least putting shorter springs in is easier than putting long ones back in. Be careful with that top shock nut, don't strip the nut thread or rip the flat out of the top plate. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mason. Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 f@$k YEAH found a post detailing how to remove them! should be right. ill keep you's posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mason. Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 f@$k... can i leave the brakes connected while changing the springs? really don't want to f@$k around with them. would love to be able to stop my car still Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyota_ae71 Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 If you carefully cut a slot in the bracket thats holding the brake line with a hacksaw, you can leave them connected. Ive done it a few times, just remove the retaining clip, grab your trusty hacksaw and cut a slot just big enough so the brake line will fit through. Bob's your uncle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mason. Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 screw it.. giving up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 Youth these days. No staying power. I wrote up a how to on this sometime ago. Buggered if I can find it though. :jamie: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mason. Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 lol i must find it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke71-rolla Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 (edited) It's not that bad man, i did mine a few months ago. Just take your time and don't get frustrated with it!! When i did mine i had to cut a gap in the top of the metal bracket holding the break line in place, just got a small hack saw and took a couple of minutes. Theres no need to bleed the breaks, its just some extra effort which doesnt need to be done. When removing the struts u just have to disjoin the tie rod ends from the struts, and the two bolts connecting the strut to the LCA's. Then after that the three nuts at the strut top. I found it easiest to use a hydraulic wheel jack to keep the strut in place and from falling out. Also when removing the tie rod ends, after u undo the nut and remove the split pin, you will need to get a hammer and hit the sh*t out of the thing, seriously as hard as you can, but be carefull not to break the rubber seal. If you do break the rubber seal u can sometimes mend it with a bit of silicone. But you need to hit the joint as hard as you can to loosen it out of position. And when putting it back in u need to raise a jack under the tie rod otherwise the nut wont tighten The only problem that i incurred was actually removing the springs, i couldnt find a rattle gun powerfull enough to undo the top bolt, so i took it to my local mechanics and they did it all for me for about 50$ Took me about 1.5 hrs to remove the first strut, and about 30mins to remove the second once i found the easiest way for me to do it. Good luck EDIT: heres my thread about it http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=39747 Edited June 23, 2010 by ke71-rolla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 When removing the struts u just have to disjoin the tie rod ends from the struts, and the two bolts connecting the strut to the LCA's. I don't think the balljoints need to be touched. You can leave the steering arm/LCA balljoint/steering balljoint all on the LCA when the strut comes off, so its much simpler than what you would expect. Throw some photos up Mason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke71-rolla Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Yeah could probably leave em on, i just found it gave more room and accesibility Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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