capt. crunch Posted August 16, 2010 Report Posted August 16, 2010 (edited) I got a ae71 running a big port 4age which was a fwd converted to a rwd. On cold starts it struggles to idle, when you start it you need to keep a bit of gas on to keep it idling otherwise it cuts out, after about 15 - 20 seconds it idles better, sitting around 900rpm. when warmed up though it sits around 1100 - 1150 and i have the little idle speed screw that adjusts the butterfly rest position opened fully. any ideas where i should start looking? has relatively new plugs ( <4000km), leads, clean oil and filter, clean air filter and running on 98. There are some water pipes that are meant to run into the intake under the TB that havn't been connected yet if that has any relevance? I have taken the battery off for about an hour too to let the ecu reset when i first got it as well. Edited August 16, 2010 by capt. crunch Quote
Hiro Protagonist Posted August 16, 2010 Report Posted August 16, 2010 I got a ae71 running a big port 4age which was a fwd converted to a rwd. On cold starts it struggles to idle, when you start it you need to keep a bit of gas on to keep it idling otherwise it cuts out, after about 15 - 20 seconds it idles better, sitting around 900rpm. when warmed up though it sits around 1100 - 1150 and i have the little idle speed screw that adjusts the butterfly rest position opened fully. any ideas where i should start looking? has relatively new plugs ( <4000km), leads, clean oil and filter, clean air filter and running on 98. There are some water pipes that are meant to run into the intake under the TB that havn't been connected yet if that has any relevance? I have taken the battery off for about an hour too to let the ecu reset when i first got it as well. Yes, they are of extreme relevance. Those coolant pipes heat up the wax-pellet cold idle valve, which when cold opens up a bypass in the throttle body to allow more air into the intake. When the coolant warms up the pellet melts and closes the valve, dropping idle down to normal Connect up those coolant lines, make sure there are no air-bubbles in the system, adjust cold idle to ~2000rpm (which should equal warm idle of about 900), and then get back to us if there is still a problem. Quote
capt. crunch Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Posted August 16, 2010 sweet thanks a lot mate, the guy i bought it of did the conversion and said they weren't really relevant, lucky i mentioned them as i wasn't going to at first... Quote
ke70dave Posted August 17, 2010 Report Posted August 17, 2010 well you can can get away with out using those coolant lines on the throttle body. on my 16V 4age i don't use them, my idle screw for some reason wont open enough to let it idle at ~900rpm so i just use the main butterfly to control the idle, crack it open a little bit withi the adjuster screw thing. idles perfectly at 900rpm in all conditions. and its been like that for almost 2yrs now. unless you have aircon or powersteering then i see no reason to use any sort of idle up systems. espcially since that wax thing that hiro is talking about, i doubt mine is in working condition after all these years. in my car you need to baby it abit for the first 5mins of driving, as it tends to stall a bit easier (since no cold engine idle up), but you should be babying the engine anyway when its cold. oh and when my brothers drive it to move it in the morning, they stall it at least 3 times before they get it out the driveway:P Quote
capt. crunch Posted August 18, 2010 Author Report Posted August 18, 2010 well you can can get away with out using those coolant lines on the throttle body. on my 16V 4age i don't use them, my idle screw for some reason wont open enough to let it idle at ~900rpm so i just use the main butterfly to control the idle, crack it open a little bit withi the adjuster screw thing. idles perfectly at 900rpm in all conditions. and its been like that for almost 2yrs now. unless you have aircon or powersteering then i see no reason to use any sort of idle up systems. espcially since that wax thing that hiro is talking about, i doubt mine is in working condition after all these years. in my car you need to baby it abit for the first 5mins of driving, as it tends to stall a bit easier (since no cold engine idle up), but you should be babying the engine anyway when its cold. oh and when my brothers drive it to move it in the morning, they stall it at least 3 times before they get it out the driveway:P yep sounds exactly like what mine does, I'm throwing the motor into another shell anyway so maybe I'll pipe it up when it's out of the car... Quote
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