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Ae95r Diff Lock Inactive,driveshaft Thump,bullbar Wanted


ae95rwagon

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Hello, new to this, i just bought a 88 ae95r with 135km only.

It was single owner and apart from a few trolley dents is in overrated condition.But it has four things i would like to fix

1 I want a bullbar does anyone have one in Sydney Australia?They want to sell

2 The diff lock dash light does not come on, does this mean the solenoid is gone and i have to remove the gearbox?

3 It makes a thumping sound at the rear under acceleration,is there a way to determine where in the tail shaft it is worn

4 The A/C heater fan only engages on setting 3 and 4,what is the best way to fix this?

Any hints gladly appreciated

Lastly I had a mind to change the original 13in alloys to 15inch steel wheels with off road tyres, having done this on my previous ae82 I found 195/85 14 to be the largest I could before i struck the strut tower,at the front

Does anyone know what the largest tyre i can fit for a bit more clearance?

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2. diff lock - Is yours AT or MT? they have different diff lock methods. If it's the MT, it could be a problem with vacuum at the diaphragm or even electrics that control the vacuum. It probably isn't the gearbox and you do not want to have to take the engine and gearbox out (they won't separate until out of the car)

 

http://www.ae86.hu/movies/ae92_2wd_ae95_4wd_FSM.zip

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Hello, new to this, i just bought a 88 ae95r with 135km only.

It was single owner and apart from a few trolley dents is in overrated condition.But it has four things i would like to fix

1 I want a bullbar does anyone have one in Sydney Australia?They want to sell

2 The diff lock dash light does not come on, does this mean the solenoid is gone and i have to remove the gearbox?

3 It makes a thumping sound at the rear under acceleration,is there a way to determine where in the tail shaft it is worn

4 The A/C heater fan only engages on setting 3 and 4,what is the best way to fix this?

Any hints gladly appreciated

Lastly I had a mind to change the original 13in alloys to 15inch steel wheels with off road tyres, having done this on my previous ae82 I found 195/85 14 to be the largest I could before i struck the strut tower,at the front

Does anyone know what the largest tyre i can fit for a bit more clearance?

 

i have a ae95r and have done many suspension upgrades/brake upgrades so i can help you with that in future if need be

i measured up a suburu brumby/early 1st gen wagon and they fit perfectly well you just need to modify the original mounts and then bolt them in

 

i have 15's on mine and its lowered so they fit if u want i can post a pic

 

sorry can't help with the rest

 

regards Harry

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2. diff lock - Is yours AT or MT? they have different diff lock methods. If it's the MT, it could be a problem with vacuum at the diaphragm or even electrics that control the vacuum. It probably isn't the gearbox and you do not want to have to take the engine and gearbox out (they won't separate until out of the car)

 

http://www.ae86.hu/movies/ae92_2wd_ae95_4wd_FSM.zip

Thanks it is a Manual.

I just pulled apart the electrics of the diff lock and it all looks ok there,so as advised it could be vacuum, if it is the gearbox i will leave that till i do a clutch.

 

Any ideas how i check the vacuum ,or vacuum elecs?

Thanks for the help.

I pulled the heater/blower switch and relay and all seems good so not sure why that is not running on 1 or 2 yet.

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i have a ae95r and have done many suspension upgrades/brake upgrades so i can help you with that in future if need be

i measured up a suburu brumby/early 1st gen wagon and they fit perfectly well you just need to modify the original mounts and then bolt them in

 

i have 15's on mine and its lowered so they fit if u want i can post a pic

 

sorry can't help with the rest

 

regards Harry

Thanks Harry,Is that to say that you altered the strut towers?or added the subarea wheels?

As i thought subaru are the same as peugeot,4 pin,which i had in the past and found a good alternative was vitara tyres at the back and 235/75 15in at the front.

But i found having 2 wheel sizes a real pain.So i was hoping for something common, like a new corolla steel wheel, that wont break on rough roads and a off road tyre.

Keep in mind i drove a peugeot 504 through the simpson desert!

so they get a hard life with me!

Could you tell me the largest wheel size and tyre size you have fitted?

Thanks

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Thanks it is a Manual.

I just pulled apart the electrics of the diff lock and it all looks ok there,so as advised it could be vacuum, if it is the gearbox i will leave that till i do a clutch.

 

Any ideas how i check the vacuum ,or vacuum elecs?

Thanks for the help.

I pulled the heater/blower switch and relay and all seems good so not sure why that is not running on 1 or 2 yet.

 

 

Have a look at the zip file I linked in my first post, there are three or four vacuum hoses involved in the system (I can't remember as I have disabled mine) which run up to valves on the firewall in the engine bay. Start by pulling the hoses off one at a time and checking for leaks. The backyard preferred method is to suck a hose and stick your tongue over the end, see if it holds. One hose should pull the difflock actuator if the diaphragm is not cracked.... Then check the valves. These are controlled by the electronics in the cabin. It's a process of elimination but you will need to get an understanding of how the system works so refer to the zip file..... you will need to test that the valves open and close as they are supposed to with +12 volts, test that they are getting +12 when they are supposed to etc...

 

Also, when I was wiring up my new engine I found the difflock light comes on when one wire (among the spaghetti) is grounded..... even when the vac valves are disconnected. Maybe your light is dead?

 

By the way, my blower switch only works on 3&4. If you pulled the switch out, can you get it open to clean or check the contacts? or is it a replacement job?

 

Good luck, sorry for the non-specific advice, but you will learn heaps about fault-finding if you nut this one out yourself :jamie:

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1 I want a bullbar does anyone have one in Sydney Australia?They want to sell

2 The diff lock dash light does not come on, does this mean the solenoid is gone and i have to remove the gearbox?

3 It makes a thumping sound at the rear under acceleration,is there a way to determine where in the tail shaft it is worn

4 The A/C heater fan only engages on setting 3 and 4,what is the best way to fix this?

 

1. Check around the wreckers.

2. Probably the light in the dash.

3. Grab the end of the uni and the shaft and wiggle it.

4. Will be the fan speed resistor, on the AE82 & AW11 it is located behind the glovebox, would assume it to be there on the 95.

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Have a look at the zip file I linked in my first post, there are three or four vacuum hoses involved in the system (I can't remember as I have disabled mine) which run up to valves on the firewall in the engine bay. Start by pulling the hoses off one at a time and checking for leaks. The backyard preferred method is to suck a hose and stick your tongue over the end, see if it holds. One hose should pull the difflock actuator if the diaphragm is not cracked.... Then check the valves. These are controlled by the electronics in the cabin. It's a process of elimination but you will need to get an understanding of how the system works so refer to the zip file..... you will need to test that the valves open and close as they are supposed to with +12 volts, test that they are getting +12 when they are supposed to etc...

 

Also, when I was wiring up my new engine I found the difflock light comes on when one wire (among the spaghetti) is grounded..... even when the vac valves are disconnected. Maybe your light is dead?

 

By the way, my blower switch only works on 3&4. If you pulled the switch out, can you get it open to clean or check the contacts? or is it a replacement job?

 

Good luck, sorry for the non-specific advice, but you will learn heaps about fault-finding if you nut this one out yourself :jamie:

Awesome thanks the zip file is thorough and excellent/

I didn't know this trick to test the vacuum, never had such a thing.

Re the switch you can pull it out and prize it open, mine had no sign of wear or bad electrical burns so i figured it was something else,which it was,the resistor,which i soldered up with domestic house fuse wire, which did not work at all.So off to the wrecker for one of those.The resistor is way more accessible and more likely as the culprit for the fan,in the blower housing above passengers feet.

I did check the diff lock lights and unless the printed circuit board of the diff lock box is dead, it should work.

 

Unless some cluey person here know what the resistors i should get from jaycar would be in which case it would last forever.

I just want the car to have everything working so it doesn't become a wreck, at 135km and 22 years old it is in pretty good condition.

THANKS AGAIN.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I have a AE95 sr5 with broken differential lock as well. I turned on the diff lock, went under the car and manually engaged the lock. The light on the dashboard came on indicating it was engaged. When I deactivated the diff lock, the light went off and the lock retracted. So, I think I have a bad diaphragm. Anyone know where I can get one shipped to US?

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1 I want a bullbar does anyone have one in Sydney Australia?They want to sell

brumby bar, early 90's nudge bar of a camry bolts on with little moddification. you can buy a 2" alloy bar from http://www.ama4wd.com.au/ for $500

 

waste of money imo a bar isnt worth more than looks on the ae95. i love mine still without one.

 

2 The diff lock dash light does not come on, does this mean the solenoid is gone and i have to remove the gearbox?

 

check the locker manualy, i had the din unit locker it didnt work i found out the board in it had snaped from heat and stress over the years. i fixed it with a rocket switch with and led in it. used the accesory light to light up the switch and the lockers relay switch with the rocket switch.

 

if the solenoid is dead i've seen someone replace it with central locking actuators. the diff lock really isnt that usefull tho unless your stuck in a bog

 

3 It makes a thumping sound at the rear under acceleration,is there a way to determine where in the tail shaft it is worn

 

check the tail shaft by going under the car like trev said. mine thumps under acceleration in the rear only if you dump the clutch, drives smoothly and it wont.

 

4 The A/C heater fan only engages on setting 3 and 4,what is the best way to fix this?

 

pull the switch apart (bitch of a job) grab some emry and polish the gunk off the terminals.

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This may or may not help.

My diff lock was not working either i found the vaccum hose connected to the intake manifold.(to lower the idle to 800-1000rpm previous owner)

My idle is a little higher than standard 1000-1200rpm warm.

We found the switches were gone but no once it was plumbed right it works great.

If photos help of how mine is wired no problem i can do that.

But i found the brackets to very difficult to remove with the engine in the car.

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  • 2 months later...

i have a ae95r and have done many suspension upgrades/brake upgrades so i can help you with that in future if need be

i measured up a suburu brumby/early 1st gen wagon and they fit perfectly well you just need to modify the original mounts and then bolt them in

 

i have 15's on mine and its lowered so they fit if u want i can post a pic

 

sorry can't help with the rest

 

regards Harry

 

 

Hi Harry!

My front R shocky has gone on my '89n AE95R and I'm thinking of rebuilding the whole lot for a few extra mm's and a slightly better cornering. What did you do to upgrade ur suspension?

Also, improving the brakes sound like a good idea - mine seem pretty spongy despite new pads. How did you go about tackling that?

 

Many thanks,

Sean

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