rockcox

I know why they're defected, all reasons have been discussed. My point; why does a defect mean you have to sell them. KE's are sooo easy to work on and fix. I had to do it twice with my 25 (once after letting the rego expire). It feels good to drive a well sorted car. I really just wanted to start the discussion and perhaps lift the standard of corolla modders.

More defected ke70s than locusts in SA. Maybe I'm getting old, but cop bait isn't cool in my opinion. I used to enjoy it when the cops looked over my loud, rough looking ke25 and then let me go because it was in perfect mechanical condition.

After doing a big drive in an old car, 1000k doesn't seem like much. take tools! Fan belts and radiator hoses are good to keep in an old car even for short drives. I find it good to think of the distance as "three times to melbourne and back" or something like that. Pace yourself.

Rapidshare sucks! I just downloaded Toyota_Corolla_1992-1997_wyd_Haynes.rar I think it's Polish! Like I wasn't confused enough :bash: I found the one I needed Toyota_Corolla_E11_manual.pdf :laff: Now I know I do need an extra relay block. I will have to use the ae95 one because I didn't get the blacktop one with my engine.

Hey Jeremy, the crank pulley is the one on the front of the engine that all of the belts connect to. It's on the end of the crank. I think you need to learn a little bit about how an engine works. It makes all of these problems a little less mysterious and also helps you explain what is actually happening. When I said see if the crank pulley moves in and out when you step on the clutch, I'm trying to figure out if your engine is completely knackered internally. I have seen at least one 4k continue to run when it is destroyed inside. Good luck......

I'm preparing my car for summer use now, which means AC needs to work, Cooling fans need to work automatically. I would like the idle-up system to work as well. I have used the complete AE111 loom, ecu and fuse box. Many of the wire colours are correct in the graft to the AE95 loom, but some I have guessed. Some I have traced back, and some I have just connected to earth or 12v to get the bugger running. Without the full AE111 wiring diagram to work from, it seems that I have done something wrong in the wiring. While trying to get the fans to work with the temp switch I have found that when I flip my manual fan switch the engine starts cranking! Is there a separate fan relay that I'm missing I am trying to figure out where I went wrong. Do I have the starter switch wired into the back door of the fan circuit? My understanding of auto electrical is fairly basic and the circuits in these newer efi engines are anything but basic. I think the fan circuits are connected to the starter circuit somehow (so that the fans do not run while cranking). Is this true? I have the car booked into the auto elec on monday to do the AC hoses and gas, but am trying to straighten out the funny business first. And before anybody asks, google gives me a bunch of results of people looking for the diagrams that I need. My ecu is fine, it's the main fusebox that's the problem. Any general advice would be very helpful

When you say "turns off" do you mean it shakes and stalls? Or does it quietly stop? Does it only do this on hills? Carby Float level / fuel pump / fuel tank. I had a crap 4k once that threw it's thrust bearings into the sump. Motor ran OK except I couldn't start it with the clutch in. (How tough are these k engines?!!!) Get someone to step on the clutch while you watch the crank pulley. If it moves in and out that will be your problem. All of your other problems are pointing to electrical or fuel supply, but this one is mechanical. Do you try to start with the clutch in or in N with the clutch out?

Hey Stephen, I found a bullbar on ebay.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Toyota-Corolla-AWD-Sr5-AE95-4wd-/290472007541?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a17b1775

And the original topic....... I think a bit of a dxf library would be great, inlet & exhaust shapes, gaskets and bolt patterns etc. I'm happy to contribute where I can.

For what it's worth, we use bricscad www.bricsys.com at work for drafting. It's fully compatible with autocad including list routines and costs less than a cup of coffee ($350+). And best of all it's available for linux.

OK Trev, will do that. Bendix also list the 1602 for my AE95 so I may have problems there too. What do people think about my parts listed incorrectly idea?

Just a thought, Would it be worth creating a thread or discussion board to identify incorrectly listed parts and, once confirmed, for a moderator to officially contact the manufacturer on behalf of the group and have their listings changed? How many ae82 owners know that they need to order 120y shoes?

My Housemate says "well they work..."

Hi all, Just replaced brake pads, shoes and fluid on my housemate's 1988 AE82 Seca. Bendix bs1602 shoes (right) have about 5mm less width than the ones that came off. No drama, my parts guy said it's OK and that they probably use a different compound that gives the same stopping. Not that the rears do much anyway. The only thing is if they ever get replaced again the drums may need machining..... having said that, the brakes will probably outlive the car. what was more worrying and annoying was that the shoes didn't fit into the adjusting slots properly I had to file a bit off the slot (bendix on the right) so that they seated all the way. New parts on old cars; you always need to modify something.

thanks Trev! I'll check that out this weekend. :blinks:

I had the same thing happen with some DBA slotted rotors I special ordered for my ke25. I was so pissed that I never chased them up about it. I guessed that I was given ke20 ones.....

Have a look at the zip file I linked in my first post, there are three or four vacuum hoses involved in the system (I can't remember as I have disabled mine) which run up to valves on the firewall in the engine bay. Start by pulling the hoses off one at a time and checking for leaks. The backyard preferred method is to suck a hose and stick your tongue over the end, see if it holds. One hose should pull the difflock actuator if the diaphragm is not cracked.... Then check the valves. These are controlled by the electronics in the cabin. It's a process of elimination but you will need to get an understanding of how the system works so refer to the zip file..... you will need to test that the valves open and close as they are supposed to with +12 volts, test that they are getting +12 when they are supposed to etc... Also, when I was wiring up my new engine I found the difflock light comes on when one wire (among the spaghetti) is grounded..... even when the vac valves are disconnected. Maybe your light is dead? By the way, my blower switch only works on 3&4. If you pulled the switch out, can you get it open to clean or check the contacts? or is it a replacement job? Good luck, sorry for the non-specific advice, but you will learn heaps about fault-finding if you nut this one out yourself :jamie:

2. diff lock - Is yours AT or MT? they have different diff lock methods. If it's the MT, it could be a problem with vacuum at the diaphragm or even electrics that control the vacuum. It probably isn't the gearbox and you do not want to have to take the engine and gearbox out (they won't separate until out of the car) http://www.ae86.hu/movies/ae92_2wd_ae95_4wd_FSM.zip

OK, so the E-series should be pretty tough if it's only in the turbo & sc'd cars and it should be worth re-building. But what about the synchro problem? Like DKAE95 asked, what do you do when it goes all crunchy? replace it?

Thanks instigator, I'm happy for ya.... Don't know if it's a design flaw or maybe the previous owners of mine and DKAE95's were smashing gears at any rpm with no thought of the poor little synchromesh working away. I'm not suggesting that my 20v broke the gearbox, it was sloppy before. I think I have a habit of not breaking gearboxes, and some of my friends think it's a wank to double-clutch on downshifts. My friend had a ST162 Celica which I think has an E series box and it had the same crunch...... is it a design flaw or weakness - early synchro failure?

Don't know if you got this sorted, but mine was doing the same. It was the cold idle air valve which opens to let air around the throttle. It is open when cold and closes when the coolant temp rises. There are two little hoses from the water pump into the inlet manifold and they were blocked so the valve never closed. It also caused a massive flat spot in engine response because the inlet never got full vacuum.

Same with mine.... It wasn't so bad with the 4a-fe, but it really doesn't like changing at 8000rpm Yep, it's a synchro thing. I've heard that the gears are tough as anything as they are E series boxes - same series as celica and GZE powered corollas. I have also read that sloppy synchro is a fault with these boxes. I need to be really gentle on up-shifts and double clutch every down-shift unless my road speed is fairly low. I will be looking for a second hand box myself, and then rebuild my crunchy one. As for the price of a rebuild, I'm a bit scared to find out....... I shall watch this thread with interest......

The Blacktop is in and running well. I used all of the old engine mounts, after grinding the gearbox mounts to size (to maintain proper thickness for alternator brackets etc.) everything lined up. Exhaust needed to be modified behind the collector to go around the center diff and O2 sensor installed. Wiring was the biggest headache. I used the whole 20v loom and fusebox, needed to run new wires for AM1, AM2, Heater Fan etc. Once the main relay was doing it's thing and making the fuel pump go the ecu told me that I didn't have power to the igniter. One more wire and she started first pop. The blacktop is a very nice engine, drives like a normal car around town, but when you let it go over 5000rpm it's a different beast. The only problem is that the gearbox doesn't want to change gears at high revs; damn sloppy synchro wasn't a big problem with the 4afe.

I had a great time removing my gearbox, I had to use a cold chisel to "crack the seal" just make sure you do it between the block and the steel plate so as not to mash up the alloy of the bell housing. The plate ended up pretty bent, but I just knocked it flat with a rubber mallet on wood. once it was moved away from the block far enough to clear the dowels it moved freely. I had the engine hanging on the winch and a jack under the gearbox to rotate the box a little bit. Be careful not to let the gearbox hang on the input shaft. the only other thing is to remove the vacuum diff-lock (diaphragm thingie) and remove all of the bolts that attach to the block and the gearbox supports. Some are hard to see and get to.

I've almost finished the wiring now, what a headache. And I haven't got the engine in yet, hopefully only fans and dash lights to go once the engine's in. I am looking for a flywheel and an engine mount to finish the mechanical stuff...... here's some pics. the modified inlet support (it was straight) to bolt outside the gearbox mount the gearbox support needed a bit of grinding to fit the inlet support inlet side. where the gearbox and alternator need to share bolt holes. here you can see the inlet support (without bolt) where the gearbox support goes. also the texta marks that show where the block needs to be ground back. front of engine mount..... Can anyone help me find a chassis mount to fit this? Is there a commonly available car which has a mount like this? Well the answer is NO, I saw a ae11x in the wreckers and the mount is a different setup (bends at right angles) so I will need to use the 4afe mount and modify the timing cover. .... old photo with the new wheels