Engine Warning Light

[Hiro Protagonist]

Yeah (where do you think I got my flex plate from :P), I am saying that I don't think the sx (smallport) came in an auto, that code list is from toymods.

 

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=3392

 

I know, I was just implying that it is possibly possible that at some stage of the life of the car it has had an auto ECU put in. Either that, or the code was mis-read (I've done that several times and gone on a wild goose chase to fix something that was perfectly fine).

[Trev]

I know, I was just implying that it is possibly possible that at some stage of the life of the car it has had an auto ECU put in. Either that, or the code was mis-read (I've done that several times and gone on a wild goose chase to fix something that was perfectly fine).

 

So a smallport auto ecu?

 

Actually it might be 26 which would explain why it does it with a higher temp, I would say that a faulty temp switch would do this.

[Benno]

as above

 

I'd suggest disconnecting the battery to clear the codes and try again, warm the car up till the engine light comes on then bridge the TE1 and E1 and read the codes again. You can get phantom codes(code numbers that don't have a allocation or do not pertain to the model) when a ECU is on it's last legs but my guess is a mis-read and is it's a O2 related code, as it's the only code that runs a timed error read logic.

O2 failure logic is wait X minutes to allow warm up(o2 sensors need to be warm to read correctly) before registering a failed status.

 

 

 

 

 

Oh hi Trev, fancy seeing you here :laff:

Edited September 21, 2010 by Benno

[Trev]

Oh hi Trev, fancy seeing you here :laff:

 

Oi, this ain't your site :P

[mutley]

My thoughts exactly, and I don't think the SX came in an auto.

 

This is why I hate the later 2 digit diagnostic codes as there is no 'proper' list.

 

HI Folks,Thank you for you help so far, sounds like a perplexing problem i like a challenge LOL

SO here is some more info --the engine in the car is not the original one. however it is a twin cam 4AGE.and here is the code breakdown 1...2...5...1...5...2 then a long pause and the sequence repeats.

the car drives normal until the engine light comes on then it feels like it has a lack of power.

cheers mark

[Trev]

HI Folks,Thank you for you help so far, sounds like a perplexing problem i like a challenge LOL

SO here is some more info --the engine in the car is not the original one. however it is a twin cam 4AGE.and here is the code breakdown 1...2...5...1...5...2 then a long pause and the sequence repeats.

the car drives normal until the engine light comes on then it feels like it has a lack of power.

cheers mark

 

Have you push started the car?

 

Pull the negative battery lead off the battery and place it onto the positive terminal (with lead still connected) for about 2 seconds and then connect the negative back up, try for codes again and go for a drive.

 

12 Engine RPM Signal.

51 Switch Condition Signal.

52 Knock Control Signal.

[mutley]

So a smallport auto ecu?

 

Actually it might be 26 which would explain why it does it with a higher temp, I would say that a faulty temp switch would do this.

 

 

as above

 

I'd suggest disconnecting the battery to clear the codes and try again, warm the car up till the engine light comes on then bridge the TE1 and E1 and read the codes again. You can get phantom codes(code numbers that don't have a allocation or do not pertain to the model) when a ECU is on it's last legs but my guess is a mis-read and is it's a O2 related code, as it's the only code that runs a timed error read logic.

O2 failure logic is wait X minutes to allow warm up(o2 sensors need to be warm to read correctly) before registering a failed status.

 

Hi Benno, good to meet you :) i posted the previous post before i read yours, it is possible i have mis-read the flashes ,its not as easy as it sounds!!!

i think the car has been put together from other cars, the guy was a bit dodgy whom i bought it from LOL.

last time i disconnected the battery the alarm went off when i reconnected it, i had to call the RACV to reset it, I tad embarressing.

any way i will keep you guys posted on how i am progressing, luckily the car isnt my daily drive.

Thank you and cheers mark

[mutley]

Have you push started the car?

 

Pull the negative battery lead off the battery and place it onto the positive terminal (with lead still connected) for about 2 seconds and then connect the negative back up, try for codes again and go for a drive.

 

12 Engine RPM Signal.

51 Switch Condition Signal.

52 Knock Control Signal.

hi trev, no i havent push started the car, haven't needed to!!

looks like i have some experimenting to do. cheers mark :yes:

[Benno]

code 12 is open/short in the G signal or no G signal while cranking.....the engine can not run if this code is current, It is the main sensor which the ecu works off.

This is more than likely a old code from cranking the car with the alarm/immobilizer still set :dance:

 

code 51 is a/c related and won't do anything to performance

 

code 52 is no KNK signal, this is a code with a failsafe operation, the ecu will lock timing to prevent detonation(saps a lot of power).

It's a piezoelectric element that produces it's own voltage, it's only a very small voltage so it's very easy to lose it through damaged/high resistance wiring. my guess would be that the wiring will be fine and the actual knock sensor is failing, due to its failure related to heat.

 

first things first, if you can't disconnect the battery to clear codes, just pull the EFI fuse for a few seconds, replace it, drive the car till the light comes on, then recheck your codes.

Edited September 22, 2010 by Benno

[Trev]

Pull the negative battery lead off the battery and place it onto the positive terminal (with lead still connected) for about 2 seconds and then connect the negative back up, try for codes again and go for a drive.

 

first things first, if you can't disconnect the battery to clear codes, just pull the EFI fuse for a few seconds, replace it, drive the car till the light comes on, then recheck your codes.

 

Doing the above clears the TCCS ecu.

 

EDIT: and the car runs so what you said about code 12 does not apply.

Edited September 22, 2010 by Trev

[Benno]

Doing the above clears the TCCS ecu.

 

EDIT: and the car runs so what you said about code 12 does not apply.

 

the car runs, because the code 12 will be a previously logged hard fault. just saying that if the 12 was a current fault, it wouldn't be going anywhere.

also you just reminded me about the code clearing thing, need to pull the stop or gauge fuse or something stupid like that on the 4age as well???

[Trev]

the car runs, because the code 12 will be a previously logged hard fault. just saying that if the 12 was a current fault, it wouldn't be going anywhere.

also you just reminded me about the code clearing thing, need to pull the stop or gauge fuse or something stupid like that on the 4age as well???

 

I thought you were saying in it's current state.

 

Stop light fuse on the 82, EFI fuse on the later.