hey guys my ke30's just been sitting around for a while cause i couldnt get it started and i discovered the ignition barrell is f@$ked. When sitting in the on position its actually off, and i have to physically hold the key between on and the starter motor against the spring to get ignition. My mate blew up his ke70 and i was wondering if the ignition barrell out of that is useable in the ke30? also, how hard is it to change the ignition barrell and what exactly needs to be done to perform such an operation. AAny info would be much apreciated, cheers

Edited September 21, 201016 yr by ke30muzza

sounds to me that its not your ignition barell that is broken, it is the combination switch on the end. and its very easy to change, just a few little screws hold it in.

 

my mate got a brand new ignition switch for his S1 rx7 through supercheap auto

 

the company that makes/supplies the stuff is called "nice"

 

there is a ~200mb catalogue of all their stuff on their website. they have some very cool replacement stuff. like random bits that you never would have thought you could buy new.

 

any decent auto parts shop should be able to supply you with the stuff from that company. bursons, supercheap auto, whoever you have in your state.

 

my mate only payed about $70 for his, and its brand new.

http://www.niceproducts.com.au/index.html

 

According to that website KE30/35/36/38/55/50/70 and AE70/71/80/82 are all interchangable. The switch mechanism I mean.

Edited September 21, 201016 yr by jono1986

sounds to me that its not your ignition barell that is broken, it is the combination switch on the end. and its very easy to change, just a few little screws hold it in.

 

my mate got a brand new ignition switch for his S1 rx7 through supercheap auto

 

the company that makes/supplies the stuff is called "nice"

 

there is a ~200mb catalogue of all their stuff on their website. they have some very cool replacement stuff. like random bits that you never would have thought you could buy new.

 

any decent auto parts shop should be able to supply you with the stuff from that company. bursons, supercheap auto, whoever you have in your state.

 

my mate only payed about $70 for his, and its brand new.

 

oh ok thanks for that man, so i just have to pull off all the plastic around there 2 screws and thats it? and whats the exact name of the part that requires replacement? Cheers

DON'T TOUCH THE IGNITION BARREL YET!!!!

 

Go grab a test light and check that you have "on" power (through the ballast resistor) to your coil first. By the sounds of it you either have a dead BR or wiring to it. When you hold the key at "start" you're actually powering the coil with the 12v direct circuit. :yes:

DON'T TOUCH THE IGNITION BARREL YET!!!!

 

Go grab a test light and check that you have "on" power (through the ballast resistor) to your coil first. By the sounds of it you either have a dead BR or wiring to it. When you hold the key at "start" you're actually powering the coil with the 12v direct circuit. :yes:

 

Sorry to sound stupid here but what exactly is a ballast resistor, what does it do, and where is it located? and how exactly do I check this with the timing light? (sorry people, I haven't really dabbled in auto electrics)... thanks for the help

Its the porcalin looking thing next to your ignition coil.

 

quick overview:

There is 2x power circuits running to your coil - "on" and "start" power, dependant on where the ignition key is.

Under normal driving conditions the 12v "on" power runs through the ballast resistor, which drops the voltage to the coil to around 6-8v.

When you try and start your car the "on" power is bypassed and the coil gets 12v through the "start" circuit to try and help the engine start easier. Once you release the key back to "on" the "start" power de-activates and the "on" powr kicks back in.

 

To test it you need TEST light, not a timing light.

instead of a new thread.. just to add to this.

just say your barrel is stuffed and the key just slips out. can anything be done here?

instead of a new thread.. just to add to this.

just say your barrel is stuffed and the key just slips out. can anything be done here?

 

Then its new barrel time.

 

I don't believe Muzza problem to be in his barrel, it maybe as simple as a blown fuse.

well yeah that website has heaps of different ones for toyota. ever bought one before and know which one it is? i also don't have a spare just to have a look at.

 

 

9 months later I have finally got the car going, for the record it was the ballast resistor. For anyone who encounters this problem in the future don't listen to any f@$ker that tries to charge you $80 for one, they are $10 from autopro and literally take 60 seconds to replace.

 

After running the car for say 10 minutes, I switched it off and could hear a hissing noise, as if something was under a shitload of pressure. Discovered hot air blowing through the hose in the radiator overflow bottle and the radiator seems to be empty (strange as the car didn't overheat and has never overheated). Is that normal? Will simply filling the radiator with water rectify this issue? Cheers

Edited February 22, 201115 yr by ke30muzza