greenmac80

The screen in it was brand new as well. Got damaged 2 weeks after being on the road. Was devasted.

So progress is super slow. money being main problem. But it has been to have its brake fade and lane change test done. Passed with flying colours and i didnt have to change a thing for that. One of the defects was a small chip in the windscreen. just had that fixed. (love having insurance) much nicer screen. black border. and a much better fit. This one comes from NAG where as the other one came from PGI who is no longer trading. old screen chip in question new one. gaping hole new one in. love it.

nah mine was LN104 from memory. and it was still slightly narrower than original.

if your front brakes are vented front then u can do the front upgrade

My diff is Hilux with the MA70 supra disc conversion. Front is late model ms85 stubs with BA falcon rotors and R33 4 piston calipers.

i understand fundamentals but i have a mate who is very very tech savvy and has done numerous courses on tuning vehicles. He'll help me out with the setups. The wolf v550 does have alot of features.

yeah. great to hear from people who have messed with it. I'm thinking though i may have room under the bonnet for the intercooler plate. If thats the case then i'll go that route over the water/meth. With the cooler plate i'll be able to design one of those 'Interchillers" which uses the cars airconditioning to near freeze the water. All in all i'm unsure what way i'm going to go. I know the next step is going to be an aftermarket ECU and tune. See where that gets me. Then i'm definitely gonna play with nitrous.. whether thats pre blower of after blower install i don't know.

Took the bitch to the drags. Best i could get out of it was a 14.9 I'm having an issue where it'll hold second for way too long. When i knock it into Drive it'll hold second. Revving and revving and not changing. Can feel losing valuable time there. Considering manualising it until i have funds for an aftermarket ecu. Anywho. non of that matter. SAPOL gave her a lovely window sticker. She's off the road until it gets engineered. Engineer has come and had a look at it and love the conversion. Only wants me to change a few bolt grades and add a washer here and there. So as soon as i have the thousands of $$ handy it can go straight through.

car has rego again. ran the car up on the rollers again with brand new trans.. after doing about 700kms mind u. new trans goes really well. feels nice and strong. converter feels good. made an extra 7kw over the last run. so now she on 147kw atw. the shifting is lightning quick. money well spent. provided it goes the distance. New sway bar has definitely improved the boatiness of the car. Decent quality shocks are the next step..

sway bar in finally. fouls on the radiator badly so we've had to space it up a good 20mm. remake the mounts etc. the bushes are shocking. tighten brackets up and it squishes them out. i'll give it to pedders later on to see what they can do for it. All in all i'll never buy another kmac product again. also to add to it. the sway bar only just fits the car. wont really know till its driven but i believe on full bump the sway bar is going to bind on the chassis ever so slightly. really not happy. According to kmac this bar wasnt a custom type deal it was an off the shelf type item back in the day. tail shaft is in. trans is filled. it selects gears just fine. facing all the exhaust flanges as they kept blowing gaskets. turns out they were pretty warped. surprising any of them sealed at all. re rego this weekend hopefully. also thought of a fix for my back brakes. the hilux diff is fractionally shorter than original. did the ma71 conversion to it. put car together. found out later that on full bump the back of the caliper just knicks the chassis. was going to get a bigger bump stop or space it down so i can't hit but up on the hoist we came up with a solution. basically i'm going to remove a section of the backing plate. re design the caliper bracket and move the caliper around the rotor downwards to give me the clearance i need. simplest solution without having to either go back to drums. convert a longer diff. or notch the chassis.

GJM is offering sound knowledge though. however every single car is different and thus needs to set up accordingly.

50mm drop in a ke30/55 is more than fine. bump steer is negligable. Ran my own ke30 with 50mm+ drop with all new suspension. -3 camber upgraded swaybars. brand new rear leaves with the lowered amount built in. let me assure you the car embarrassed quite alot of so called 'Sports" cars out in the adelaide hills. As for springs i can't help you. i had mine custom made through industrial springs in adelaide. and as far as i'm aware they are no longer trading.

Wolf is pretty much only thing around around that will control the auto that i'm aware of. Well EMTRON can do it but they start at 3k and no one in adelaide can tune em. I'm now also looking at Spitronics.. Alot cheaper has all the functionalities and they make a TCU. An ecu that'll do sequential ignition and injection. Has all the inputs and outputs of the 'BIG' names ecu. and TCU etc works out to $1400.., south african made. seems to be very popular there and in europe with tons of success stories. Not many Dyno read outs though. I may decide to give the little guy a chance. Been speaking directly to the guy whos bringing them all in to australia. Plus seems to be a fair chunk of online support. My main thing with picking ECU is trans control. i REALLY don't want to manualise it. especially since i'm running a b&M ratchet. too clunky for daily duties IMO

interesting points. water meth injection has been around for a very long time. i find failures hard to believe with some of the new kits out. They all look like very nice bit of kits. also if there is failure for any reason modern aftermarket ecu can apply a boost cut to ensure you don't pop something. you can use two inputs.. Air temp. i'll be adding a sensor to the lower manifold after the blower. if Intake temps go above a certain point either limit the engine or apply boost cut. Also have the ecu itself trigger the injection based on inlet temps. So no wasteful usage. Alot of kits just boost reference which in my eyes is simply not precise enough Whilst when it first goes on i'll only pulley it for 6-7psi the charge temps should be more than fine. will add the water/meth as a precaution. Once i have the wolfv550 then i'll pulley it for 14-16psi and go for gold.

oh right i was thinking that at 20psi the intake temps would be enormous. mine initially is going to be on standard everything. probably only 7 psi with water meth injection. Should see 200kw atw. Then i'll buy bits and pieced to upgrade it. WOLF V550 550cc injectors 2uz COPs ARP stud kit and cometic gaskets. Cams I really want to do each upgrade and document the changes via dyno. Not enough real world info on what you get out of each mod on these motors. If the motor goes pop at any point i'll do a built one. also its a non intercooled setup as i really don't want to interfere with the bonnet . Has he thought of running a water/meth spray to get the temps down?

jesus 20psi thru a blower. Any specs? i got an eaton m112 for mine.

most shops wont even quote rust.. well mine doesnt. u never know what your in for until all the paint is stripped and u start cutting. those jobs are normally best too as theres no need to cut corners to meet a set quote

Rust repairs are very time consuming. And thus end up quite expensive at a reputable panel shop. If you earn good money then its not too much of an issue. Altezza club is right $70 is actually lower end of the scale. Learn yourself, borrow a welder practice on scraps and watch/read online. The hardest bit is actually shaping your repairs. if you have complex curves and folds it becomes very tedious.

appears that way. thing stank when unwrapped. even worse its just shitty industrial enamel.

so i got my new custom sway bar.. 27mm arrived like this. have since had it sandblasted. zinced and topcoated in satin black. Went to fit it. fouls on my bottom radiator outlet. so issue there to sort out. either drop the sway bar down a bit or raise my radiatior by 10mm or so. i have clearance up top. trans is back up in the car. got this turnbuckle machined up. and made my top rear diff arm adjustable so i can get the optimum pinion angle. fitted the new cooler and made the lines up. Need to order some proper 90 degree fittings for the bottom freshened up the grill and headlight surrounds while it was all off. drive shaft is currrently at the shop getting balanced and some new unis.

new one. new cooler. speedflow fittings and braided line. this one is MV automatics stage 2 box. new converter. 2600 stall this time 1.5 shift kit. new clutches seal bearings etc etc.

trans failure... [

So report back from trans shop. bearing failure behind the overdrive gear or something like that. broke the overdrive gear. and shattered the planetries. He building it for me. End of the week/early next week i'll have a new trans back.

your gonna make it in two sections??

loving this bit. keep it coming!