I know they have a transverse leaf setup in the front, do you have to get this reset to lower it or what's the trick?

What I did.... Removed Leaf spring, Welding S13 Rear spring perches and cut rear springs into the front so Its turning them into a non adjustable coil over. Whiteline sway bar aswell!

Technically stock ke10 struts are coilovers jordy..

 

 

But there's several ways:

 

 

Grab the spring top hats off a ke20 and fit them inplace of the ke10 ones (as seen in the FAQ) which will result in around 1" drop.

 

Or you can get kingsprings for a ke20, the reason is say this is a ke20 has thicker stiffer springs so it won't feel so much like driving a mattress when you go round a round-a-bout at more then walking pace.

 

Mind you ke20 springs are a little longer ke10 ones stock for stock so you'd want ultra lows for 40mm drop or so.

 

 

Then for the rear 2 more options:

 

Lowering blocks, these can be bought from repco, supercheap, autobarn etc in 1" increments, 1" 2" 3" etc for around $90 retail with shackles/ U-bolts

 

Or getting the leaf springs reset, so adding a leaf or 2 for stiffness, then heated up and having the curve flattened to drop the rear, you can also have the eyelet on the leaf reversed for a little more drop as well

Its basically the front i'm inquiring about. Is it possible to put a ke20 crossmember and struts in? This would give me disc brakes also. Jono what do you mean get some ke20 springs? Can i put them in the ke10 struts?

p.s. I want this thing slammed.

Edited August 7, 201115 yr by decoop

I just read the faq/wiki, then i went and had a look at the struts in the ke10, the front struts don't have springs nor can they be put in, wtf? is there different types of struts for ke10's?

I started putting a ke20 crossmember and front end in mine but decided on ke70 due to rack and pinion.

 

Doesn't seem too hard to me, look through my thread on how i modded the bottom of the crossmember, then it just needs the holes drilled.

 

From what i can tell then all you need is to put the ke10 strut tops on the 20 struts and use the ke20 tierods and you're set.

 

Besides the fact you'd need a whiteline swaybar or something.

 

And yeah ke20 springs will go in a ke10 strut, although as mentioned they are a little longer than ke10 ones so you'd need kingsprings or to have some factory ke20 ones compressed

 

 

Uhm? Ke10's do have springs. haha

 

Go stick your head under the front of yours and you'd see them there. Look for fencing wire sized twine wrapped around in a coil :lolcry:

Edited August 7, 201115 yr by Jono.C

As i said, there's no springs in this bad boy. And what seems to be a bottom spring perch actually isn't.

whaaaaaaaaaaaaaa? they've pulled the springs out. there's supposed to be a spring hate under that piece at the top.

 

Like this:

 

Dunno what's goin on, no spring would be able to sit in the bottom perch anyway, hard to explain why but i'll get a pic tomorrow so you can see what i mean.

But as you can clearly see the strut looks completely different to yours.

Edited August 7, 201115 yr by decoop

Alright and i'll try and grab some pics of mine tomorrow for comparrison but i'm pretty sure yours is the same to be honest..

 

Although you bottom perch looks taller, is yours a ke11? don't know if there's a difference there or not?

decoop, the previous owner to the guy you bought it off has removed the coil springs, and then tack welded the spring's top hat to the lower perch. presumably because it was flapping about once he took the springs out (presumably with an angle grinder)

 

Scott in shepparton slammed my old ke11, i don't know what he did, but if you need his number pm me.

 

-dave

Ok so i need some new struts then, will put wtb thread up this arvo.

Hey Decoop. I got a set of struts you can buy. PM me.

Not the 1st time I've seen a ke10 running no coil spring, it gets them low then the leaf takes the bulk of the load. It probably handles like crap?

 

Seeing as your struts are trashed, you should buy an Otomoto weld on coilover kit and run them on their own and ditch the leaf. This is likely the route I will take with my wagon down the track, will allow the best amount of tuning for a pretty cheap price (300 for the kit)

 

Also, if the coilover kit is narrow enough it should allow for extra space inboard so you can increase the camber using camber tops.

if you run it without the leaf spring make sure you get a whiteline sway bar otherwise it will handle like shit. Swaybar + HSD weld on coilover kit + camber tops is a good set up.