Rians Ke70

[B-Lugg]

An..... update? wut.

[rian]

Yeah I dunno. My car sucks butt and I'm too lazy to fix it.

Edited February 25, 2015 by rian

[It's_AUDM_Yo]

Sell it to me

[rian]

[rian]

I bought a second hand T3 short shifter:

 

 

 

 

 

 

And I bought some bonnet pins. At the moment I can actually see my bonnet flexing at 100km/h and it's super rusty around the latch 8S

 

 

Edited April 12, 2015 by rian

[B-Lugg]

Might Car Mods have a sweet episode to teach you how to install those pins bro.

[rian]

Might Car Mods have a sweet episode to teach you how to install those pins bro.

 

[rian]

So I fitted my T3 shift kit, got syked, went to start the car for a test drive - flat battery.

 

Charged the battery, went to start car - wouldn't start. Remembered this issue:

 

Tried to drive this thing today and it just backfires like crazy under load, makes zero power etc.

 

So I began looking for the problem:

 

Pulled the fuel line and ran the fuel pump - fuel came through.

 

Pulled the plugs and checked them - wet with fuel and some of the insulation was cracked.

 

Tested the leads and plugs by earthing them out while cranking - got an orange spark and no "crack" sound.

 

Measured the resistance of the leads - between 0.8K and 1.2K ohms :y:

 

Measured the resistance of the coil - 18 bazillion ohms :osama: :n:

 

So I bought ordered a new coil and got some new plugs too.

 

I just want to test the new short shifter.

[rian]

Some of you may know the problems I've been having with this car lately, I initially thought it was the coil causing the issue so I replaced it and it made no difference. But now I think I've fixed it, with this:

 

 

It's a complete 4AGE + T50 setup. I'm going to sell off the crap I don't need and hopefully I'll end up with a cheap engine. I scored a RWD intake manifold and RWD cooling setup too :y:

 

So I got it home and started pulling it apart to replace all the seals and gaskets. Popped the cam covers off to check what it looks like inside:

 

 

Ehhhhh, I've got no idea what I'm supposed to be looking for, it just looks like an engine to me.

Then I pulled the gearbox, clutch and flywheel off and discovered ARP flywheel bolts (score) and this (not a score):

 

 

The inside race of the spigot bearing had exploded. It came out in piece, and then I was left with this:

 

 

Just the outside race of the spigot bearing stuck in the crank. I struggled with this for a couple of hours: tried the grease trick, tried levering it out, tried hooking it and slide hammering it out. I eventually went to Repco and bought a spigot bearing puller, still no luck - the arms on the puller weren't sharp enough to get between the race and the tapered end of the hole in the crank, I had to sharpen it up for about half an hour but I eventually got there:

 

 

So now I'm waiting to borrow a engine crane then I'm going to pull the old engine and chuck this one straight back in.

 

[B.L.Z.BUB]

it just looks like an engine to me.

 

 

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/proxy/BcFQrsYKooWBAMhxJCblIBYjEio8BL9ELEdxumSZ_LwXkOzOrEUT5bFMMv0Zx60CukV_8UxpdsxP8rKiUnSL1GhaOPQniIEUAV3xhsGrfJFD7CTLRqdH0IvjHTLVU-DrOvdesbJSGJEh6ZnwlGbm=w471-h312-nc

[rian]

I also bought 16 x super long wheel studs:

 

 

(Picture is not of my car, just for reference)

[rian]

The new 4A was super oily when I got it: it was leaking from the cam covers, the cam seals and the distributor. I cleaned it all up really well, I needed 3 cans of degreaser :blinks:

I'm going to replace all the gaskets and seals before I chuck it in, but I'm not too sure I can be f'd replacing the front main seal. That crank pulley looks like a pain in the butt to get off and I don't have the tool for the job, it didn't seem to be leaking from there anyway. Is it really worth replacing while the engine is out?

 

Anyway, here's the current state of the engine:

 

Edited May 22, 2015 by rian

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Do the front main. If it leaks it's a bastard while in the car. The timing pulley isn't too hard to get off and the seal isn't expensive. I've got the timing pulley off with a large flat head screw driver. I actually bought a 2 arm puller to modify for the job but haven't had to use it yet.

[rian]

Do the front main. If it leaks it's a bastard while in the car. The timing pulley isn't too hard to get off and the seal isn't expensive. I've got the timing pulley off with a large flat head screw driver. I actually bought a 2 arm puller to modify for the job but haven't had to use it yet.

 

The only reason I'm hesitant to do it is because too many people said they've either stuffed the pulley of broken the oil pump. I guess I could give it a whirl with some screwdrivers. Or I might buy a 2 arm puller off ebay? I've already spent $100 on tools I'll probably never use again just to get this far :abuse:

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Yeah I bought like a $10 2 arm puller off eBay. I cracked the rim off one pulley using screwdrivers and snapped off the bit with the timing mark. That was great. It'd be way easier out of the car though.