Left to right torsion?

 

The bar is attached at to the car at both ends, it doesnt mind if you hold one end stil and move the other one. Still gets the same amount of torsion through bar as if you were to move the two ends in dependantly.

You engineers and your theoretical blinders. All I'm saying is, consider the bar in the plane of movement that it is to be installed and the direction the forces will come from that you desire to modify (which surely is turning, a desire to transmit the sideways forces of the body rotation to the rear axle ). Without drawing a bunch of pictures and wanking on forever, just consider the totality of the system to consider the change.

 

Its just one singular aspect in the system that the calcs would quantify. Consider the type of bushings used, the lubricant on them, as well as bar size to create a realistic picture of what is happening. You might find the bar is stiffer and puts more stress on the puny bushing setup that holds the ends of the bar and they flex more instead, thus increasing the size of bar required to create the desired change. Thus wasting material, adding undue weight yada yada.

 

Surely you want to talk about the effectiveness of the swaybar setup as installed real world data than to waffle about a single piece of steel in a system that contains about 15 parts, none of which have the same resistance to warping that an 18mm bar will have..

Edited December 5, 201312 yr by LittleRedSpirit

yeah true

 

But in this instance Ryan's calcs assume that everythign else appart from the new sway bar stays the same.

 

Which i think is fairly reasonable, not 100% accurate, but probably the best you can do.

Edited December 5, 201312 yr by ke70dave

Well you could fairly easily test it as a complete system, just a lot of ʞ©$ɟing around when all that really matters is the bum test.

So I finally did some work on this thing!

 

I went to put the rear swaybar in - chassis mount bushes that came with the bar were the wrong size. Bought some Superpro bushes that were for the front swaybar of an AE86, trimmed them down with an angle grinder so they weren't as tall, and what I ended up with was a correct size bush and a whole lot of what looked like silly string.

 

Sorry for the shitty photos, couldn't be bothered jacking the car up again.

 

 

 

I got the 595 RSRs put onto the Hartges (excellent tyres for the money).

 

 

 

I bought some new 800MPa bolts for the steering arm-rca-strut connection. Because the T3 steering arms are so thick I had to get new bolts. You'll see why in the pictures.

 

Old bolts:

 

 

New bolts:

 

Steering/suspension setup:

 

 

I also replaced the crappy lower control arm and tension rod rubber bushes with Superpro ones. Now I want to replace every bush with Superpro bushes.

 

LCA and tension rods out, then removed the old bushes (thank ʞ©$ɟ I have a bench vice)

 

New bushes:

 

 

I forget to get a photo of the new bushes installed, it wouldn't be that cool anyway, they just look like bushes.

 

And I got a pic of my new 200 cell metallic race catalytic converter, this was very expensive.

 

Edited December 16, 201312 yr by rian

Solid mods mate.

I superpro'd my entire front end. *insert doge meme here*

So how does it drive?:D

So how does it drive? :D

 

It's better than it was, but I think I need to get on a track to notice the difference. The front end feels solid, but the rear end still feels a bit wonky, especially straightening up out of corners: on the few corners I've tried the car feels like it wants to kick back the other way on the exit even though the tyres never broke traction. It feels like there is a lot of flex in the 4 link and tyre sidewalls, so that will be the next thing I upgrade. Or it could just be that I don't understand how driving fast works.

I swear the people at Whiteline are retarded. None of their parts fit properly

You might find the bar is stiffer and puts more stress on the puny bushing setup that holds the ends of the bar and they flex more instead,

 

...and what you didn't mention is that a very stiff sway bar will break the KE70's puny mounts right off the chassis...

 

More reinforcing needed.

Too much fast -> break diff -> swap diff -> go more faster -> break tailshaft -> swap tailshaft -> go more faster -> ?

 

 

Old diff:

 

 

Old diff out:

 

 

New diff:

 

 

New diff in:

 

 

 

Went to the shops; saw old car:

 

Do a skid.

I do handbrakies on my driveway all the time.

This thread is definitely worth the read, I especially like how you cut through the crap & get to the point when modifying your car. Great work so far, keep it up!

 

A nice mix of go-faster-handle-better & look-nice, one of a handful of xE7x's that makes me really want one again (for whatever that is worth).