rolla_ballin Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 hey all ive got a stock 4k 3hundy and something ks shes old but goes alright for now I'm looking for upgrades to the engine. I'm doing this slowly as i am poor as I'm looking at saving for a webber carb set of hurricane extractors and i 1 3/4 exhaust system. thats about all i know of.ive seen people talking about cam cuts at 280 degrees. is that algood to get done if I'm driving around town in it as it will be my daily driver and also what affect does the cam cut have I'm real useless when it comes to mechinacs or anything like that so any help would be appreciated as i would like to join the rolla club cruises coz i feign the ke rollas but don't want to get left behind haha as the rolla struggles to get to a hundy k cheers for ya help guys hopefully will get the rolla going soon and see you all out on the roads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rian Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warehouse_XIII Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 ^ This is pretty much all you need to know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 (edited) Manual or auto?? Now, assuming you are a car enthusiast who will work on cars all your life, go and buy a compression gauge. Check the compression of each cylinder at cranking speed with wide-open throttle, that will tell you how good the compression rings & valves are. If the compressions are low then doing the other mods to it will be wasted. Once you have done each cylinder, squirt a teaspoon or so of oil down each plug hole and try it again. The oil will help seal the rings and if the compressions go up the rings are worn. If the compressions stay low then the valves are worn. You might need a general rebuild before doing any mods, and you might find it keeps up with other 4Ks without a cam/exhaust/carb... Post the compressions up on here. If you don't want to buy a gauge then pay a mechanic to do them. Edited October 22, 2012 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolla_ballin Posted October 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 Cheers lads Altezza club yea mate its 4 speed manual box in it I had compression test done by a mate he realms its all good in that department so what would be my next move I bought the rolla to strip and work on myself to gain some knowledge but some assholes stole my ute and burnt it out so I now have to get my rolla on the road As its my only car ill have to do these things when I can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 OK, rings and valves are good if compressions are all over 155psi. I hope that's what he saw! Next, go over the dizzy, you'll have to strip it, but leave it in the car. Make sure the weights under the points plate can move out freely as they mechanically advance the timing. They might need a little grease. Check the points and see if one side has burned into a pit and the other into a volcano. Toss them if so and get new points and a new condensor. Fit them with the correct gap when the rubbing block is on a corner of the center shaft, and add a touch of greas to the shaft where they rub. Check the dizzy cap for dirt, & black cracks and scrape the oxide off the points inside where the spark from the rotor jumps over. If it misfires at all, check the resistance of the leads one by one. Check the plugs gaps, which I'm sure you have already done. Check the timing with a light or you can set it statically, I can tell you how. If you rev it slowly while watching the timing marks with the light you should see it advance from about 10deg out to 35deg max by 2500-3000revs. Suck on the vacuum line while watching the timng light and see that the timing changes. You can do this.while the cap is off if you don't have a light, just make sure the whole plate rotataes back and forth a few degrees. That is your vacuum advance, separate to your mechanical advance. Check the tappet gaps and get them right, then report back here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolla_ballin Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Thanks mate will let u know how I get on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 I'd start by putting a 5 speed in it and an auto diff or centre in it. Usually auto diffs have a higher ratio so your acceleration will be better but with the 4 speed it will rev higher at cruising. Hence the need then for an extra gear. You'd be suprised how much a set of diff gears will wake up a low powered car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolla_ballin Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 kickn5k 5 speed ya reakon mate will it make much of a difference I'm quite fond of the 4 speed box what will i get out of putting a 5 speed in?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 K50 is the same 4speed with a 5th overdrive tacked on behind it. It drops the revs about 300rpm at 3000, so at 100kph its handy to get the revs below 3500. I'm still running the 4.3 auto diff the car came with and 13" wheels, so it accelerates well around town and we just use 4th. On a trip I fit fat 14" tyres so the sparkle around town vanishes but the cruise revs in 5th turn in around 7L/100k. Around town the 5speed doesn't help, but the auto diff makes it get away faster. If it is all tuned to factory specs then a better carb setup, extractors & exhaust, and a cam cut is the only way to improve it.... unless you want a turbo... The Weber 32/36 is cheapest carb, the Hurricane extractors are the only ones around now, and the cam cut will move the power curve up and give greater peak power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke55Revive Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I've used a Izuzu(180) carby from a TF gemini and i believe that the high end difference is pretty amazing, almost straight bold on with a spacer block, some one on this forum has an awesome write up on it. the hardest part was finding an airfilter for it. that an a pair of extractors. very happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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