lyricallyters Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Hey guys, I have a 1977 ke30 and have put a 4k 4speed from a ke70 into it and am just trying to get a circuit to start it up but am a bit lost. Would anyone be able to come have a look $$$ will be included if it can be started! Charles 0423146038 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Hi Charles, Would the KE-30 have had a automatic transmission fitted to it before you just fitted the K40 4 speed gearbox ? If so there is a bridge required for the wires that went to the shift console. I'm sure I've seen it documented elsewhere on this website. Basically I think it is bridging out the wires that prevents an automatic being started unless it is in park. Anyway, let us know whether you previously had an auto, and we can then help you get it going. Cheers Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyricallyters Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Hey banjo, yeah it was an auto I looked into that earlier and bridged the connection for the inhibitor switch in the gear stick. The problem I have is getting a proper circuit so I can test lights etc not sure about where fusible links go and have a few connections that aren't plugged into anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Here's the usual KE70 wiring setup- Those fusible links can be cracked internally and give very dodgy power. The heat from the engine kills them over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) Hi Charles, Sorry, I read your line " getting a proper circuit" as getting a proper connection. Anyway you know about the bridge on the auto console. Here is a wiring diagram for the KE30/KE35. The Corolla's wiring diagrams are pretty much all the same basically, although there are some subtle differences. I have a KE30, and here is a wiring diagram I have used for a couple of years, & found all the wire colours and connections are pretty true to what it actually is. Just for the record for any others following this thread, here is a wiring diagram showing the park / neutral switch. Right click on these above wiring diagrams one at a time & save them as a .jpg files. Print them out, and then join them together, and it will make it easier while working on the car. P.S. I printed 2 originally, and always keep one in the glove box. Trust this assists. Cheers Banjo Edited February 24, 2013 by Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyricallyters Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 thanks for the diagrams guys, the labels make it a bit easier to read than the wiring diagram in the workshop manual. i should of explained earlier, as i bought the car as pretty much a shell with a few wires here and there, i am pretty sure i am missing a few parts, which is why i can make a circuit. if i get time later on i will try and post some pictures to make it easier to explain. what make this job harder is that it has a car alarm and central locking. shouldnt get in the way of testing the lights at least and fundementally should be easy to work out for someone who knows anything about this sort of thing. i have no fusible links in the engine bay, and can't find a voltage regulator. i have been informed by someone else off this site that i may have a bosch alternator which has an internal regulator? electrical is very confusing for me so i need someone to look at it for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyricallyters Posted February 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 well i went out and took some photos, if it isnt clear enough what colour the wires are or anything please let me know! the first photo is on the positive side of the battery and the second and third photos are from over the coil/ distributor side of the motor. i know the red/light blue wires are for the reverse lights, but I'm not sure where the engine bay wires will go as i have already hooked up the ones near the console to the gearbox reverse light switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 (edited) Do you have 12V power at the coil?? Do you have a $10 multimeter to start wth?? The auto lockout wires are these- On the auto gearlever, the red pair are the reverse lights and the black pair are the "park" lock. The other pair are for the light inside the auto lever at night. ..use them for your incar floros.. http://www.rollaclub...801#entry590801 All you need is 12V to the coil, usually via the ballast resistor, 12V to the starter solenoid, 12V through the main starter cable, and 12V to the carb fuel shutoff solenoid. If you have those 4 circuits live, it will fire. If you are missing the coil or carb solenoid it will crank over but not start. Does it do anything? The B/W is usually the starter solenoid on a KE70. White alone is main power from the battery to somewhere important. G/B is flashers, R/L is reverse lights. Edited February 25, 2013 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 i have no fusible links in the engine bay, and can't find a voltage regulator. The fusible links are just short bits of wire with joins on them, usually right at the battery or alternator, or starter motor... wherever power is distributed to different circuits. You can see where they are drawn in the circuit in this picture, but in the car they might be right on the battery positive terminal. Your friend would be right about the internal voltage regulator, most altys are like that now. Sadly, you either learn a lot about electrics in cars yourself or pay a lot of money these days. It is just time-consuming tracing circuits and checking for power, and at $90/hr it soon adds up. Its not hard to do, any car thief could hot-wire that car within a minute!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyricallyters Posted February 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 send them my way then! would anyone be able to post up some pictures of their ke30/55 around the +ve battery terminal so i can compare as a visual guide. i tested the connections and have power at the black connections and one side of the white two pin harness. i have the starter motor connected and have power, but do not have a relay in sight. maybe one of the connections with no power connects to the other side of the starter relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 (edited) Hi Charles, A multimeter is a good start to sorting electrical problems but an even better tool is a 12 volt 21W tail light bulb, with two pieces of wire soldered to it. Connect one side to the negative of the battery and the other end probe around. Place it first on the +ve terminal of the battery & then take mental note of the brightness of the bulb. Then place the probe on the common end of the fusible link & then on the three other individual ends of the fusible links. Good chance one of these has blown. You can also use your lamp tester to check earths. Connect one end of the test lamp leads to the +ve terminal, and probe around with the other end on common earth points like the chassis, the engine block, etc. Ensure the brightness of the lamp does not dim. This will indicate a connection, but also resistance in the circuit. The reason this is better than a multimeter, is that as well as checking continuity, it also detects resistance in wiring, fusible links, fuses etc. A multimeter is a high impedance load and shows continuity, even if there is resistance that may cause loads like lighting circuits to drop voltage due to corrosion, bad joints & the like. Hope that helps. If you work from the battery out on each circuit, systematically, using the wiring diagram, you should pick up your problem fairly quickly. Good luck ! Let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo Edited February 27, 2013 by Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyricallyters Posted February 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Thanks for the advice banjo, i tested pretty much all I have in the engine bay and it all seems fine. I went to the wreckers and found a wire on a ke30 that had pretty much everything ravaged, a wire that plugs into the two pin harness and plugs into a single pin harness then connects straight to the battery. I compared this to a couple of pictures and seen that it is correct so I thought I'd give e ignition a turn. I have all electrics: horn, indicators, fan, wipers, lights, even my central locking! I tried to turn it over but nothing. This could be because of the immobiliser as the dash light was not flashing, but I'm still pretty sure I don't have a circuit in the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Does it crank over on the key at all?? Maybe stick your test light in the starter solenoid wire, the black/white one, and see if the solenoid is getting power when you turn the key to "start" How about fitting a wire from the battery positive to the coil +ve and run another to the fuel cutoff on the carby if there is one. That gives you ignition and fuel. Then jump another from battery positive to the starter solenoid, so you can turn the starter over with that, and see if it runs. After that you'll have to work back to the key, but that immobiliser sounds a worry. If you have the other circuits then the fusible link is fine, but the immobiliser must be designed to chop the B/W wire to the starter solenoid. If that wire goes into the immobliser between the key and the starter I'd bypass it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyricallyters Posted February 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 I have tested out all three of said connections and they are all getting power. I have found two other wires in the engine bay which are live when ignition is turned on, maybe that has something to do with immobiliser or something. I'm pretty sure the immobiliser is in the dash behind the cluster. If I took this to an auto electrician would they know how together it started even tho it has immobiliser/alarm? I don't want to pay for hours of work and they don't fix it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Well, we're missing something- These are the only wires you need to run the car, except for the fuel shut-off solenoid on the carb, as the KE30 never had one. If the 4K carb has one of those you'll need to check that it goes "click" when you turn the key on, and stays live when you crank. Hmmm... you'll also need the earth rom the motor to the body to the battery! So the two red circuits work the starter motor, the heavy battery +ve and the solenoid activator from the key. The green ones provide spark, one that by-passes the resistor for cranking and one that goes through the resistor for running. If you have the red ones live it should crank, and if you have the green ones live as well it should run. You could simplify it more by just running a wire from the battery to the coil +ve and from the battery to the starter solenoid, that's how you'd steal it. If I was the auto sparky I'd do exactly what I listed there to get it running, then chase the wiring loomb to find the factory wires that perform those functions. You trace the coloured wires from the engine bay back to the steering column and check where they go and what they're joined to, and why they aren't live. You need to find the immobiliser itself and bypass it if needed to get those circuits live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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