Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Toyomaz

Recently Purchased 82 Te72 Liftback Having Strange Electrical Issues

Recommended Posts

Hello folks. First post on rollaclub and my first Corolla. I have owned her for about a month now and have loved it more than would have ever expected. Coming from driving a 1987 Mazda rx7 T2 as a DD for a year i am really enjoying the gas economy hahahaha anyway the last few days when i was driving home from worked i had noticed my rpm gauge fluttering but no performance loss to the car and i figured it was a bad ground to the gauge or loose connection somewhere so i got home checked things out and all seemed in order took the car out and the gauge was acting fine again so I headed back home and parked her for the night.

 

Today i start the car up this morning and notice that my dash lights are flickering (Ebrake light,Charge and so on) and about 15 seconds or so after starting the car the flasher starts clicking like a madman and the car is sputtering not running smooth as butter like she always does after i tuned the webber 32/36 then she just shuts off.

 

so i go oh noes and try to turn it over no dash lights or anything ... then bam they are on again click click click just the sound of the starter solenoid trying to engage so i rock the car in gear a bit and fire it back up only this time the crank was not very healthy but it started up and ran smooth for about 10-15 secs then the flasher started clicking crazy again lights dimming and car sounding like it wants to shut off for a split second ... then it just shuts off after a random amount of time idling. So i did what any newb should do first and start with the basics. So i started with all the grounds i could find and cleaned all of them up checking for any obvious signs of a melted wire or one that had rubbed off the plastic coating.

 

But I am at a loss Any kind of simple pointers or anyone that has experience a similar problem with their 3TC carby setup

 

I have been surfing the forums all day for some problems like mine. Thank you for taking the time to read my post folks !

I wish i could have introduced myself without asking for help right away.

 

post-20805-0-10608700-1401933575_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

post-20805-0-37832800-1401933589_thumb.jpg

Edited by Toyomaz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Members dont see this ad

First check the fusible link from the battery into the system. There might be one, there might be three, but see what happens when you turn ignition and headlights on then wiggle the wires. Wiggle the battery terminal wires too, one might have a bad connection.

 

Then check the voltage for 13.5-14V while the car is running to make sure the alty is charging the battery, or check the battery for charge at a battery shop. Vancouver Island is hard on batteries.

 

Then, if you can, replace the ignition setup completely by jumping from battery positive to the coil positive. That will liven the whole circuit shown in this wiring diagram by red dots. If that make the car run smoother then the bit you by-passed (the actual key setup) is the problem.

 

This is a KE70 diagram for USA, but I'm sure its very similar. Hang onto it, its the best copy I've found!

 

Then get back to us and let us know what happened.

post-7544-0-21157800-1401936336_thumb.jpg

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the response Altezzaclub. I will be checking all those things out tomorrow, I am quite positive the batteries are good and i was able to pull the positive lead off and the car kept running so I am pretty sure the alternator is still charging.

 

It really seems like there is a lose connection somewhere, and its getting worse every time I try to idle the car as it its vibrating more and more to the point of separation only i have looked up and down in the engine bay for a loose, melted or stripped wire. All fuses are still in good order it would appear.

So I will try the wire from positive battery terminal to the positive terminal on the coil and see if that works then we will know if it is what we think it may be. The Ignition key area thingy magijer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Then, if you can, replace the ignition setup completely by jumping from battery positive to the coil positive. That will liven the whole circuit shown in this wiring diagram by red dots. If that make the car run smoother then the bit you by-passed (the actual key setup) is the problem.

 

 

 

Just as i suspected it was the Key tumbler setup I did as you said and checked everything else. I have 2 brand new batts one optima redtop(came with the car) and a New ACDelco from my rx7 batteries are fine and the alt is charging perfectly.

 

Batts are perfect and same with the alternator all working like tops. so i bridged the positive terminal to the positive on the coil and wala dash lights are bright as the sun and car fires up like it had a brand new starter idled for 5 mins no clicks no hesitations so i killed the key then pulled the bridging wire to kill the engine and i am now beginning the work of replacing the key setup with 2 toggles and a push button.

i will still use the key for a steering wheel lock a club and battery kill key for anti theft.

 

Seriously thank you so much altezza and BLZbub for the suggestions you guys rock here at rollaclub and i think i found a new home :).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok i have a question about setting up a toggle to bypass the ignition system can i run a 12g wire from the + post on the coil to the inside of the car and a 12g cable from the postive bat terminal into the interior and tie them together with a heavy duty 6-24v on of toggle? Because i have already gone ahead and bypassed the key ignition system with this tutorial just modified slightly because the wire colors were not all the same http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=106084

 

but still alas i run into the same issue as before strangely dimming lights and so on click click click from the flasher then the car will just shut off and ill have to wait a few minutes and the dash lights will just click back on but then if i try to press the push start nothing the the lights go out then come back randomly, but if i were to bridge the + terminals on the coil and batt my dash lights up like xmas with no dimming or clicking. I am getting better with wiring and such now thanks to this little gremlin forcing me to learn.

My Acc , On and push start all work just like the key would have but i still run into the same issue.

so just to make sure i jumped the coil to the bat and she fires right up and runs for as long as i want it too. I just can't seem to figure out where in the line something is all messed up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

scratch the last post I have figured it out finally ! the main 12v power source going into the cabin for acc, on and such (black with red stripe) was reading 12v at the source near the batt and only fluctuating between 7-8v at the end going into the key tumbler.

 

So I ran a new 12g cable into the cabin tied onto the BR cable that was reading a full 12v from inside and rewired my 2 toggles and starter pusher ... everything seems to be working like a dream ! now i can get focussed back on fixing up a few other things and preventing any rust... the car is actually almost completely rust free asside from a bit of surface rust but nothing major at all.

 

car pushing no color runs very smooth.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So she is all put back together... and of course what ya know being a newb i must have missed something small but none of my turn signals work anymore .

 

I checked the fuse seems fine the indicators for left and right blick twice as fast as if a bulb was out. Hazards work but not the rear... more diagnosing for me... this is starting to get frustrating.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All is figured out folks. Case closed everything is working like a dream again super stoked. Turns out there was a loose conection on the passenger side for the turn signals. "Wild Thing" is back on the Road and even better than before.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...